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samej

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Posts posted by samej

  1. It's a 20 W 10 ohm resistor. It's just a cement thing with no heatsink. My rough calculations suggest that if the speaker is using 300W the resistor will produce about 0.006 W @ 1000Hz and 1.4 W @ 25 KHz. I've assumed the woofers impedance stays at 8 ohm. I have 2 tweeters in series with the resistor, and that is all parallel to the woofer. The tweeters are 1kohm @ 1 KHz and 60 ohm @ 25 KHz.

    I guess to achieve that power the cab as a whole will be being driven pretty hard. Certainly as a bass cab it shouldn't be an issue, but as a PA speaker it might, particularly with loud recorded music? Even still 1.4 W isn't much....



    edit for resistor wattage correction

  2. Hi,

    I'm building a cab with peizo tweeters, and it seems to be recommended to add a power resistor to protect some amps from the low impedance at very high frequencies. I presume that because the resistor is very low resistance compared to the tweeters high impedance at normal frequencies (where there is some power), that it doesn't get very hot and can be mounted, for example directly to the plywood with cable ties. Or is this a bad idea? Should i use a heat sink or mount it away from anything that might burn? If so any recommended method? On stripboard?

    I haven't really been able to find anything discussing this.

    Thanks

  3. [quote name='Uberkate' post='732990' date='Feb 2 2010, 02:35 PM']Hi there.

    Is this amp alright for gigging? (Small/pub venues mainly.)

    I have quite a small budget but need to pick something up for practises and an upcoming tour (I'm a new bassist really.)[/quote]

    Hi, I've used it for a few pub gigs with no problems, though to be honest it does seem fairly quiet given it's stated 350W. Apparently the preamp is a little weak, and when I've plugged in a little mixer to the line in (i.e. bypassing the pre, using it just as a power amp) it's had plenty of volume. I do tend to play very gently and think my bass has quite a low output too. And, as with any amp, it depends more on the cab you use it with than anything else though....

    If you are near Bristol, let me know if you want to come and try it out.
    James

  4. Hello,

    I have a Little Giant 350 for sale. Excellent condition. There are a few scratches on the base where it has rested on the screws of a cab. The plastic film fascia covering is still mostly attached because I never bothered to take it off. It's in the original box with the manual, rack ears and screws still in their wrapping, and a kettle lead.

    Looking for [b]£150[/b]. Would prefer collection but if you want it posted then express your interest and I'll look into it. I'm in Bristol, fairly central.

    Edit: Forgot to say I might be interested in a swap (+cash if necessary) for an audio interface - looking for something with 8 mic pres and adat ideally, either firewire or pci.

    Cheers
    James

    [attachment=41488:dsc_0354.jpg]

    [attachment=41489:dsc_0356.jpg]

    [attachment=41487:dsc_0353.jpg]

    Edit for reduced price.

  5. The preamp output specs are:

    OUTPUTS
    • Line Output: Nominal 0.5V RMS @ 100 Ohms
    • Balanced Output via XLR : Nominal 1.0V RMS @100 Ohms Electronically Balanced

    And the XLS input sensitivity is 1.25V for full power. I suspect that 0.25V can make quite a difference, but I don't really know. The distortion will almost certainly be the preamp not the power amp. You can happily send an underpowered distorted signal to the power amp. Maybe someone else will be along with a better answer soon.. 600W should be plenty.

  6. I would guess the preamp doesn't provide enough output signal to fully drive the power amp. Despite the name, many instrument preamps aren't designed to be plugged directly into a power amp requiring a pro-audio level signal. Which is pretty annoying! If you have access to a mixer you could put that between the pre and power amps and set the level on that to provide a full signal to the power amp (0dB on the meter I think) and see if that makes a difference. If so then that is the problem.

  7. [quote name='EssentialTension' post='599494' date='Sep 15 2009, 06:48 PM']What's scale length on a baritone uke? These are 20".

    Would the poly strings fit through the tuners on a baritone uke?[/quote]

    A quick google suggests 19" for a normal baritone, although some pages say just over 20. Close enough either way I reckon. You might have to change the tuners or attack them with a file. And the bridge too. Still, I'm quite tempted myself!

  8. [quote name='Soulfinger' post='512590' date='Jun 13 2009, 04:18 AM']According to a German amp tech who has one, the LG´s pre amp is a little bit on the weak side and doesn´t fully take advantage of the power amp´s capabilities. He built himself a booster to go between pre and power amp and says it´s much louder now.

    Please don´t expect me to go into any more details, I know nada about that kind of thing. :)[/quote]


    Did you see this online or is it someone you know? That's quite interesting. Initially I thought that would have to involve doing some serious electronics work inside the case but I guess you could just use the line in and out and plug something inbetween.

  9. Hi,

    I have a LG 350. Sound wise it is fine although I havn't had many other things to compare it to. I had a button fall off once but it just popped back on. My only problem is it's lack of volume, I think my bass has fairly low output. It's ok for rehearsing but has to be pretty much turned up full to cope. Not great for gigs unless it's only as a monitor or it's a quiet gig. I'm looking for something louder for gigging.

    Also, I have never seen the fan turn. Anyone know if that's because it's temperature controlled or just broken?!

    James

  10. [quote name='hubrad' post='393860' date='Jan 28 2009, 05:32 PM']I often sell those Stentor ones, including a couple to friends, deffo way better than anything I've seen cheaper.
    The strings are not half bad to start with; I'm using Evah Pirazzi which just leapt up to nearly £250 a set!
    A brill pickup is the Realist by David Gage. I've used this for 8 years now, and recently got the mandolin version too.[/quote]


    Cheers, yeah it seems really good. Had a lesson today and my teachers bass is obviously nicer but I think the strings are where the main difference lies, they felt much better. He said his were that sort of price. Ouch! That's painful. Especially if they ever snap.

    Not sure I'll be needing a pickup for a few months at least though! I'm quite tempted to try making one first though just with a piezo transducer and a jack socket. If it doesn't work it's only a few quid lost.

  11. [quote name='slobluesine' post='393845' date='Jan 28 2009, 05:20 PM']found one of these a REAL help with double bass, strengthens finger, hand and arms muscles very quickly

    [url="http://www.powerballs.com/index.php?m=Home"]http://www.powerballs.com/index.php?m=Home[/url][/quote]

    Yeah I have one of them already. I don't really use it that much but find it quite nice and relaxing at a moderate speed and it's quite good to warm up. Haven't found I needed it for electric bass but yeah it will probably help for upright.

  12. [quote name='farmer61' post='387758' date='Jan 21 2009, 05:17 PM']What price did you beat them down to?????[/quote]

    Sadly no beating was done! I think it was a pretty good deal still. I might have got it slightly cheaper online but I think they have set it up quite well so it's easily worth paying the extra.

  13. So i got the Stentor at the weekend, it's been ten years since I've played one and standing next to it, it seems bigger than I remember! I played it a little and seems good, no funny noises and sounds and feels nice. Looking forward to getting some lessons to check I'm playing it properly and getting on with learning. Can't wait until I can play it with other people. Yay!

  14. [quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='373720' date='Jan 8 2009, 12:12 AM']Especially since a new set of strings for a cheap Thomann bass would pretty much bring you up to that level anyway...[/quote]

    Good point, a chap in another shop actually suggested going the gear4music route but that while you may get a pretty good one straight up, equally likely you may have to spend a few hundred more getting it decent, and not only on strings.

    [quote name='TPJ' post='374965' date='Jan 9 2009, 12:04 PM']Welcome to the search for a DB samej. Have you tried bartering with the music shop? Walk in with a wad of cash and tell them you'll take it. A small profit for them is better than no profit in these times, buyer's market and all that. Try to talk them into it and be firm on your price. Maybe also tell them you need their services in the very near future for strings and a setup so they will get more ££ out of you then.[/quote]

    Cheers, I might try this. Of course this guy said I had better get my name down quick before it goes... Shame I'm not very good at bartering. Will just have to cut back on the beer for a while I suppose!

    Thanks everyone, I'll let you know what happens..

  15. Cheers, I just went into the violin shop near me and they had a Stentor for £580 which while more than I would really like to pay, I appreciate is probably significantly better than the Thomann. And it's a local shop which is usually a preferred place to spend my money. I might have to start scraping together some pennies...

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