6v6

I was listening to Guthrie Govan (yeah I know, he's a guitarist! ) playing through one of these, and it sounded pretty nice, not cheap though:

[url="http://www.andertons.co.uk/compact-pedals/pid27438/cid692/strymon-flint-tremolo-and-reverb-pedal.asp"]http://www.andertons.co.uk/compact-pedals/pid27438/cid692/strymon-flint-tremolo-and-reverb-pedal.asp[/url]

[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1380269811' post='2222967']
many people really like the Yamaha APX acoustics.
I am not one of them

They are quite thinline, and sound a bit thin unplugged, stick it in an amp and the preamp gives you more lovely fatter tones.
But unplugged they are a bit thin, wimpy and no bottom end at all.
YMMV.
[/quote]

So this is somewhat true, unplugged they are a bit thin sounding and boxy, but the same is true of most small bodied, shallow/thin acoustics.

I've got an old APX4a, and it's great for what it is, which is a cheap electro acoustic - it's tough, sounds OK unplugged and pretty good plugged in.

If unplugged acoustic sounds are a priority, I'd personally go for one of the bigger dreadnoughts (loads of good options, but the solid top yamaha ones are good value), but if you want something for gigging (or just noodling on the sofa), the smaller bodied APX series will probably be more comfortable and practical.

I'd probably sit the tops directly on top of the subs (without poles) on the stage, then you'll get some sound on stage and the tops will be roughly the right height (unless the stage is really high).

Or if you have decent foldback, you could put them in front of the stage, but I'd prefer them closer to the band, so you get the sounds from the same place (and less chance of beered up punters falling over them)

I'd say also look at the price on gak/thomman etc and go for a price which is *significantly* less, even if the bass is in great condition.

IMHO the mistake a lot of folks make on here is expecting to get 90% of new price for a used bass. Typically these don't sell and get bumped for months. Stuff which is more realistically priced (say 50-60% of new price) sells easily.

IME this method arrives at a pretty similar number to looking at completed ebay listings, sold stuff on here etc, obviously you can do both

I love the feel and tone of TI flats, but I do wish they did some heavier gauges - the tension is really low, and I find it hard to avoid string click on the frets, which I've never had problems with using other strings.

That said, the advantage of the low tension is I can play for hours with no fatigue at all, and also fast runs, hammer-ons etc become very easy and fluid.

[quote name='Delberthot' timestamp='1380062553' post='2220471']
£378 for a Mexican Precision body & neck or the whole bass brand new for £483 from Soundslive. Same goes for the US one - £738 for a US body & neck, £869 for the whole thing.
[/quote]

Where can you get a US Standard precision for £869? Soundslive have them for £1121, which is a similar price to most other online retailers. I know (from recent personal experience) that it is possible to get them for less than £1k if you shop around, but I've not seen any 2012/2013 models for under £900 new?

Anyway, I agree with the premise, why would you pay this much for parts when a whole instrument is not that much more (and you can try it first, picking the best one etc), be better to buy the whole thing and ebay the bits you don't want.

Costs for custom made parts aren't really comparable IMO, since with Warmoth, USACG, Sims etc will build exactly what you specify, they're not off-the-shelf mass produced parts, so it's understandable that you may pay a premium for that. I guess the MIM parts are comparable with MightyMite, and the US bits comparable with AllParts?

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1380028400' post='2219725']
Hmmm. There's talk here of burning furniture, damaging existing components, lead poisoning and wrecking marriages. Could I simply use wire glue, like this: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141050534572?showlimghlp=true&lpid=92&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=92&ff19=0"]http://www.ebay.co.u...&ff14=92&ff19=0[/url] Alternatively, could I buy a jack socket with the wires already attached so I can then use those little plastic junction-box thingies to connect it to the existing wires? Or shall I take it round to the Tech?
[/quote]

Really, I wouldn't touch that stuff, you just know that even if it works it won't last and will fail at the worst possible time (middle of a gig). If you're worried about fumes do it in the garden with an extension lead, practice on some old cut up wires until you're confident then you'll be fine

The best jack plug for a scratchplate mounted precision jack is a switchcraft (available from plenty of places, this is an example):

http://www.ampmaker.com/store/Switchcraft-jack-socket.html

These sockets are much better than the cheap chinese versions which look the same but don't last anywhere near as long.

[quote name='andydye' timestamp='1380021881' post='2219573']
So a higher power one will heat up faster yes?
Which tip, standard one or a finer one?
[/quote]

Unless you're prepared to pay for an (expensive) temperature controlled iron, don't get a powerful one, something ~25-35w will be ample for any bass or amp work, anything more powerful will get too hot and you'll just overheat all the components, wires, pcb's etc.

I've used the expensive weller temperature controlled irons at work, and they are great, but for home use I've always used something similar to this antex one:

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/459422.pdf

The one I've got has lasted about 10 years so far, the tips are replaceable (get a couple, one medium and one fine) and they're light and easy to use.

The secret to soldering with two hands is basically preparation, get things ready and clamped or propped so they won't move, then solder quickly, tin the end of the iron, hold it against the two things to be soldered, then feed in the solder (not too much), until you get a nice shiny join. Taking too long will overheat the joint and melt things, so practice on some scrap wire and components first.

I'd check string material - AFAIK the TI JF344 strings I have on my precision are pure nickel wrap over a steel core, so it seems odd that you get on with nickel flats but not rounds.

Anyway, FWIW I'd just stick some stainless steel rounds on it if I wanted articulate/bright/clanky (although to me that's somewhat missing the point of a precision, but each to their own )

There are also loads of other jazz-ish options you could get used for less than the cost of a P retro and pack of strings, so personally I'd leave the old P alone and do that.

Great work, thanks for sharing!

Can I ask a question about cutting the fret slots? I see you used a fretsaw against a bit of square scrap, but how did you get the paper template underneath? Is that something you can print accurately from a computer, or do you buy templates for a specific scale length?

I'm considering one of these - have you tried it with any pedals to add some grit?

I'm also looking for a tubey, fat/warm/punchy amp on a budget, so this appears to suit. But some for some songs I need a little bit of drive, so I'm thinking of adding something like a VT Bass pedal, anyone tried this?

Handle template made, recesses routed:

I decided not to rebate the handles flush, as it would mean routing nearly all the way through the 15mm panel (currently ~11mm depth), however now I can't decide if I should just laminate another 15mm offcut on the inside, to ensure the area around the handle is reinforced and strong (related to whether I use self-tapping screws or T-nuts to secure the handles, I'm not sure what's best, but I'll need to use T-nuts if I don't laminate another layer as the self-tappers will be too short to hold securely)

I'm also trying to figure out if I need to laminate over the inside of the speakon recess (which does go all the way through the panel) - Ideally I wanted to drill the speakon plate for a 6.3mm switchcraft socket (so I can use jack or speakon cables), but then I'll have a 1/4" hole in the back of the box, so I guess I'll have to create an airtight enclosure behind the socket.

Planning to put the speaker in and fire it up for a first test at lunchtime!

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1379662878' post='2215288']
natural maple (chargeable, but not quite as much as matched).
[/quote]

So they charge you more to *not* apply a finish (other than lacquer, which presumably the neck is already sprayed with)?

Natural would be my choice anyway, fwiw!

Personally I'd use a tiny amount of clear silicone mastic. It should fix pretty well, but can be removed (carefully) with a razor blade if the need arises

If you want permanent then epoxy resin, clamped - as others have mentioned wood glue is no good unless both surfaces are bare unfinished wood

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1379357170' post='2211735']
Proper templates for the router, you put me to shame. I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on with how it sounds, I feel a bit responsible. It's a great little speaker and I love mine but recommending anything to someone else is always a risk. What amp will you use with it?
[/quote]

Don't worry, I take full responsibility if it sounds bad or falls to bits!

Although it's taken a very long time, I'm enjoying the process, and I've learned a lot, so the build is already a success as far as I'm concerned.

I'm not sure re the amp - I currently have a Hartke kickback 12 (which I'll hook up to test the cab, disconnecting the internal speaker, as I'm familiar with the tone), I also have a 70's Traynor YBA1-A which I may try (just for fun, it probably won't be enough power for gigs and I'm not sure if it will play nice with the impedance curve of a ported cab..)

So I'll probably order a Hartke LH500 to go with the cab now as I could do with something soon for gigging, but I am also considering starting a tube amp build (I've built several guitar amps), inspired by the Ampeg V4b. I need to actually finish the cab first though

Yesterday I finished the template for the speakon recess, routed it, added some remaining bits of filler, and started on the template for the side handles.

[quote name='MoJoKe' timestamp='1379163616' post='2209323']
Well, missing a couple of things actually!

DV liquidated and w[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]ere bou[/font]ght out a few months ago by German company, Music Store. Rather than using UK distributors (who aren't best pleased, not least because some of them lost a good chunk of money in the liquidation, and have now lost the trade altogether), they now source their kit from Germany, As do Thomann.

[/quote]

I did not know that happened, thanks for the info!

[quote name='MoJoKe' timestamp='1379163616' post='2209323']
On MB's website:-

[indent=1]POWER REQUIREMENT 100/120V; 230V; 240V 50/60Hz (Voltage is factory preset according to region of sale).[/indent]
[indent=1][color=#020202][font=Georgia, Arial, Verdana][size=3]Markbass amps/combos are manufactured to be sold and used in the country of purchase, and they are factory preset to that country’s voltage. Due to homologation issues, the voltage may not be changed.[/size][/font][/color][/indent]


[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#020202][color=#222222]The UK distributor, MSL, are the only company who can supply 240v units into the UK. Both DV and Thomann can only supply 230v.[/color]

[color=#222222]Like many manufacturers, MB power amps use switched power supplies which are quite sensitive to voltage variation, (not an issue unique to MB but it is [i]why[/i] they are so country specific), so "near enough" sadly doesn't cut it, as a difference of 10v before you even plug the thing in to the mains can cause problems, not least of which, if it does go bang, MSL cannot help you as a. it will not have been supplied by them, and b. with the wrong power supply it is effectively not approved for use in the UK by the manufacturer anyway.[/color]
[/quote][/color][/font]

On the face of it, this seems pretty insane - MB have the overhead of maintaining two product variants for Europe, and if you tour, or even just play the odd gig in mainland Europe, you presumably can't use UK MB kit in Europe and vice-versa (although I bet people do)

IMHO designing a switch mode power supply such that it can't deal with < 5% more or less voltage is a gigantic design fail. I also like the MB sound and might have bought one, but this is a pretty compelling reason not to buy one.

I'm assuming the LH500 (given it's a traditional not switch-mode power-supply) won't have the same tight tolerances - the service manual indicates it's just switchable between 110v and 230v, but presumably the 230v mode will be specced such that it will work OK in the UK.


[quote name='MoJoKe' timestamp='1379163616' post='2209323']
[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#020202]I do get your point about the power of the LM250 blackline at 8ohm, however its still bloody loud at 150w. I did a side by side test recently of the new JB players school combo (damn stupid name if you ask me!), against the CMD151, and it kept pace really well with very similar tonal character, and while definitely not "as loud" (but be fair, it is half the wattage!), but really much pokier than many others quoted at the same rating.....[/color][/font]
[/quote]

Sure, it seems like a great starter amp, I guess with an extension cab it would be more than adequate for most gigging purposes.

Some progress, filled all the screw holes with tough 2-part polyester filler (took ages to sand down!), and currently making templates to rout (and recess so they sit flush) the holes for the speakon plate and the side handles.

Nearly there now, should fire it up this week (maybe even use it on a gig I have Friday! )

Taylor Eigsti - "Daylight at Midnight" album

Not that in to Jazz normally, but this is really great stuff. More piano than bass focussed, but there are some nice upright/fretless lines

[quote name='MoJoKe' timestamp='1379079204' post='2208460']
Can't go wrong with the new markbass blackline 250, but do not buy from DV or Thomann or will not have a UK power supply.....!
[/quote]

Huh? DV are a UK company, with lots of UK shops, no?

And Thomman will supply something which works in the EU, which is the same voltage as here (near enough), so you may just need a kettle lead with a UK plug?

Or am I missing something?

The blackline does look good, but it's only 150w into 8ohms. I wish they did a 500w version.

Doesn't sound right, the tubes must be biased too hot IMO, or there's some other fault with the amp.

Good quality tubes should last a fair while provided they're biased properly, and you're not mismatching the load (is your cab the right impedance?), like at least a couple of years even with fairly regular gigging.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1378977219' post='2207187']
Nope! If the hum goes when he touches the strings the bridge ground must be making good contact.

From what i read i would say that the problem is lack of shielding on the bass. Isolate the electronic cavity and the back of the pickguard with some copper foil and the humm will go away.
[/quote]

This is completely wrong - if the strings were properly grounded then touching them would make no difference, as they'd already be at ground potential.

Touching them is proving an (indirect and high resistance) path to ground, via your body, which is enough to attenuate the noise, which is probably induced noise from electromagnetic interference (TV, lights etc) on the strings and other metal parts of the bass.

An earth must've fallen off inside the bass, or possibly the cable has a dodgy shield so I'd try a new cable first.

Yep, confirmed, I've got a [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Korg Pitchblack and the battery lasts for months of regular rehearsals and gigs, even when using cheap batteries.[/font][/color]

[quote name='LiamPodmore' timestamp='1376156465' post='2170383']
Halfway to what i've always wanted, which is a MIDI controllable rack mounted VT Bass Deluxe. If i move back to a rack rig there'll be some series contemplation about whether to get one of these or not.

Liam
[/quote]

What you're describing appears to be the new amps which contain two VT bass preamps, a power amp, and can optionally be midi controlled:

[url="http://www.tech21nyc.com/products/amps/bass/vt1969.html"]http://www.tech21nyc.com/products/amps/bass/vt1969.html[/url]

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1378886177' post='2205894']
Limiting is a specific form of Compression.

More on both here:

[url="http://www.ovnilab.com/articles/limiter.shtml"]http://www.ovnilab.c...s/limiter.shtml[/url]
[/quote]

The LMB-3 is actually a compressor though, despite the name, since it's got an adjustable ratio (making it a limiter with the ratio at infinity, but a compressor elsewhere in the range)

I'm facing the same decision, currently gigging a Hartke kickback 12, with PA support, planning to get an LH500 for bigger gigs where we've only got a small PA, I can't find anything else around which looks better for the price.