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jimcroisdale

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Posts posted by jimcroisdale

  1. Ive just put one of these in my bass, in a "jazz" style setup.

    Only thing i found was that the thin red wire was the MM coil hot, and the thin black wire was the JAZZ coil hot (opposite to stated above)

    Sounds really good though - jazz coil only with the tone rolled off for that Jaco-esque tone, MM coil only with open tone for a more P bass sound, and both coils for a 'Ray sound.

    I love it! 🙂

    211018101_1705746939619639_212893593703504218_n.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. Yes, it's really odd. The pickup has arrived today, and at least the wiring colours seem to match with what was found on that previous thread.

    Just need to decide how I want to wire it up now!

    Assuming a master tone (a la Jazz bass) there are a few options:

    1) Separate volume pot for each coil

    2) Blend pot with centre detent and master volume knob

    3) Jazz coil always on, with pot to bring the MM coil in or out, plus a master volume

    4) MM coil always on, with pot to bring the jazz coil in or out, plus a master volume

    5) Perhaps a series parallel switch to change the sound when both coils are being used....

    WWYD? :D

  3. HI all,

    I've purchased a Wilkinson WJM pickup to go into my Sterling SB14. It will replace the active system.

    Previous thread about this here: 

     

    Basically, it's a Stingray type pickup, but the bridge-side coil is "jazz" style - which appeals to me for reasons I won't bore you with. (okay, it's the Jaco thing 😄 )

    Info about these pickups is scant, but there is a wiring diagram for the Fretking Esprit bass, which features this pickup. See diagram attached.

    I suppose my question is about what they call the "vari coil" knob, which gradually rolls ONE of the coils off to ground.

    So, why does that need the dual-gang pot shown?? 

    Regards,

    Jim

    fretking esprit wiring.pdf

  4. I totally get that.

    BUT 🙂

    I'm not the world's best bassist, and thus my clients are not the world's best mixers.

    I think back to when I was doing a lot of mixing. I always struggled getting a bass sound that I liked, or that would sit nicely. Conversely, when I practiced my mixing skills using downloaded multitracks I found that the bass was pretty bloody amazing right off the bat. There was something in the way that they'd tracked the bass that made it so much easier to work with. And I don't necessarily mean that it sounded tons better soloed, just that there were much less in the way of issues to "fix" before it would sit right.

    If I can offer a bit more of that for my clients, I'll be happy.

  5. Hi all,

    I seem to be getting asked to record bass parts for people, and so I'm wanting to improve my recording setup to give the client a better end result that doesn't need too much processing at their end.

    I play a Sterling SB14 with flats, and it's generally a fingerstyle funk sort of style. I currently go straight into my interface. It's acceptable, but it's not great.

    So, ideally, I'd like something that at least has EQ and a cabsim output. If it has a compressor just to catch the peaks, then so much the better.

    I don't need it to have a drive channel, or be switchable etc etc. 

    Been looking at all the usual suspects, but not all seem to have cabsim and/or compressor. Perhaps that's because I really don't NEED those? Tell me if so 🙂

    I welcome your suggestions,

    Jim

  6. Going to be picky now and say I never really fancied a black one! (no pleasing some people is there!)

    The Goldtone is nice, but bloody expensive. The U-Bass Sub model was on Thomann for less that £300 for a while, IIRC

    Having watched a bunch of comparison videos, I will probably end up going for the Mahalo one:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mahalo-STN2031B-Solid-Electric-Ukulele/dp/B01EUG1KMQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_267_1/258-4165973-7730718?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EUG1KMQ&pd_rd_r=017d86d6-a33f-4c75-aa35-c342d9861f27&pd_rd_w=WO6Kd&pd_rd_wg=8dg7L&pf_rd_p=15216146-4434-47f5-99d9-56240c85bf4d&pf_rd_r=8GX763J1854TWPXEMZF0&psc=1&refRID=8GX763J1854TWPXEMZF0

    The comparison vids make it quite clear that they all sound fairly similar, but it's the technique you use that can make them sound GOOD.

    I guess Kala have just stopped importing?

  7. Hi all,

    After quite fancying a Kala u-Bass solidbody for years I'm finally in a position to buy one.

    (And I mean the cheaper ones - not the crazy money Californian jobs)

    But looking over the last couple of days it seems like they've disappeared off the face of the earth!

    Nobody in the UK seems to have any in stock, and can't find a single one second hand anywhere.

    What's the story, folks?

    Jim

  8. Hi all,

    I'm looking for a drumbox of some description to play along with. Essentially, I want to be able to program a beat (or play a loop) and add some chord sequences, so that I can play along adding my own basslines, and practice arpeggios etc etc.

    Doesnt have to be complicated, in fact, the simpler the better as learning curves put me off 🙂 I dont need to be able to plug the bass into it either.

    So what's out there? What do you guys use?

    Jim

  9. Hi all,

    My gear was stolen in Woodlesford, Leeds on 29th May 2017.

    Black MusicMan Stingray 5 - the USA SUB model. The bass has had the pickguard removed, and as they are very difficult to find I can only assume it will stay this way. The bass was in a very tatty padded gig bag.

    Also taken was a silver gear case containing a Genz Benz Streamliner 600 amp, some leads and tools and other bits. Two instrument cables - both with Neutrik connectors and Van Damme cable. One with two black ends, one with a black and and a red "silent" plug end. Kettle lead was grey and quite long.

    If you have any information on the whereabouts of this gear I would be most grateful if you could call me on 07870 677 072 or email [email protected]

    Cheers!

  10. Hi all,

    My gear was stolen in Woodlesford, Leeds on 29th May 2017.

    Black MusicMan Stingray 5 - the USA SUB model. The bass has had the pickguard removed, and as they are very difficult to find I can only assume it will stay this way. The bass was in a very tatty padded gig bag.

    Also taken was a silver gear case containing a Genz Benz Streamliner 600 amp, some leads and tools and other bits. Two instrument cables - both with Neutrik connectors and Van Damme cable. One with two black ends, one with a black and and a red "silent" plug end. Kettle lead was grey and quite long.

    If you have any onformation on the whereabouts of this gear I would be most grateful if you could call me on 07870 677 072 or email [email protected]

    Cheers!

  11. [quote name='sifi2112' timestamp='1469480424' post='3098741']
    My (FS) Bagend D212 might work except not neo ... see specs in link

    [url="http://bagend.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/D12-D.pdf"]http://bagend.com/wp...15/06/D12-D.pdf[/url]
    [/quote]

    Too deep I think. Like I said, for an optimal cab size for a 2x12 it would look silly if it was as slim as I need - I can understand why there aren't any...

    Are there any chunky 1x15's about these days? Cab on one side of the back seat, kiddy seat on the other? :-)

  12. [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1469479568' post='3098721']
    Weeellll.... The Barefaced Big Twin 2 is 14.6" deep compared to the 16.5" of the Neox... but it's 33.5" tall compared to 31"...

    [url="http://barefacedbass.com/product-range/Big-Twin-2.htm"]http://barefacedbass.../Big-Twin-2.htm[/url]
    [/quote]

    Just been out and had a look. I reckon I need to lose 4" off the depth... It's looking like a 2x10 I think - I dont know why anyone would try make a really small 2x12 with what we know nowadays about cab design?

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