Immo

I'm really tempted to buy a blue one as a mod platform. I'm thinking about swapping the pickup to something I have in my box, and boy, do I have stuff in there.

Either:

• APB-2 Lightnin' Rod (since there's room for lots of stuff under the bonnet and I want to remove it from my Fender P anyway)
• Ibanez Blazer split coil (essentially a DiMarzio)
• old Ibanez EB-3 copy bridge pickup, much mojo
• Artec SideWinder copy

Your WillPower mod makes me lean towards the last option, and then going wild with a stacked V+T and a rotary switch for Series/Parallel/Out-of-Phase tonality, a thing I wanted to build out of a Squier Jag H that got discontinued and is only available in Boring Black these days.
I'd swap all of the hardware to Guyker, too.

Forgot to post an update: I wired it the way it's been shown in the above pic and it worked bed because I forgot about swapping hot and ground wires from one of the pickups and it was comb-filtering and sounded thin. After fixing that, it's done. Honestly, the difference between both PUs in series and in parallel is negligible despite output DCR being doubled in series. The volume boost is barely noticeable, but the tone has a bit more oomph. Sound thicker and darker, and seems to better open envelope filters and make fuzz pedals more angry. In other words, the series setting seems to be more influenced by the middle pickup while the parallel setting takes more from the bridge pickup.

Overall, I'm satisfied with this modification and like it more than the Jazz Bass style wiring I had previously since it was inefficient. The middle, bigger chickenhead knob is the rotary selector.

On 24/09/2025 at 23:20, Homatron said:

Great pedal! But I agree there’s a lot of knob tweaking to contend with! You’ve inspired me to set aside a bit more time with it.
 

I got stuck in a rut using mainly the Okto side of the pedal as I really like the range of tones I can squeeze out of it. Trying the Nøjs side recently at lower gain settings has made me realise I was probably overdoing it much of the time.

Yeah, most of the time I use the Nøjs side as a clean boost or overdrive to due bluesey stuff, or saturate other pedals. I rarely set the GAIN knob over 12 o'clock if I only use this pedal alone, the fuzz is arguably very cool, but doesn't really match the stuff I want to play.

On 24/09/2025 at 23:20, Homatron said:

Have you tried the internal guitar/bass switch? I set it to Bass when I first got mine but haven’t done any A/B testing yet.

I haven't tried comparing the tones, but when I tested it out of the box it was on Guitar setting and then I remembered about the switch and set it to Bass. The only thing I *think* I noticed was that the low E was tracked *slightly* worse with Guitar, but I may be wrong. I wanted to test this again, but I keep forgetting.

Finally, more or less satisfying setup.

I had this DIY, oldschool, solid and bulky single-row pedalboard made from fiberboard for almost a decade now and since the guitar cable was pulling the FurFur (first effect in the chain) upwards, I've decided to fit the board with built-in input and output jacks with their cables.

I bought it originally from some kid (he had his dad built it for him, and was upgrading). Originally it had a built-in 3-socket power extension cable plugged via IEC power socket. It also had a "carpet" and nailed-on silver edge slats. I swapped the carpet for the loop side of adhesive h&l, vinyl-wrapped the slats black, added corner guards, and replaced nails with screws, and also removed the extension cord w/sockets to accommodate the JOYO battery power unit. And I used IEC hole for input jack, drilled the new hole for output on the opposite side, masked the imperfections with vinyl wrap and installed the sockets with cables. It's quite clean, but still with neat DIY vibe, so I like it, though I'd prefer a bit more room since there's still one huge pedal I want to add. In the future I will also use a method to mask the holes that is slightly better than the wrap.

13 hours ago, Hellzero said:

(...) the serial place on the switch better positioned (to avoid huge differences in output).

That's actually very good call. So I edited my design:

Should do the trick?

14 hours ago, Mediocre Polymath said:

One bit of advice I would add is that the sealed plastic rotary switches that most vendors sell aren't very robust. I've had two fail now – not catastrophically, but annoyingly (having to wiggle the switch to get position 4 to engage, that sort of thing). I don't know if you can get heavier duty three pole switches anymore though.

I found open one made by Alpha, specifically for guitar and effects that should do the trick.

1 hour ago, Mediocre Polymath said:

Aha. Found it. I had a copy buried in my photos folder for some reason.

Looks the same, just w/ swapped pickups and one Hot output being soldered to output terminals instead of the inner pole (A). Is there any practical difference?

2 minutes ago, Mediocre Polymath said:

I've done exactly this on a few guitars. I'm not near my computer, but I have diagrams somewhere. I'll have a look in the morning.

This would be much appreciated.

I'm looking to ditch the Jazz-style wiring on my P+P bass, because it doesn't work the way it should, rolling down one volume essentially makes its pickup inaudible anyway. I want to swap one pot to a 4-position rotary switch that will enable switching between: Neck PU only, both PUs in Parallel, both PUs in Series, Bridge pickup only.

I searched online and can't seem to find a wiring diagram nor a thread on forum/Reddit/etc. that understands that mission, and I could've sworn that before the search engines suffered a major episode of enpoopification, the diagram WAS there.

Anyway, I made a crude diagram myself and just want to make sure it's legit. My ADHD brain sometimes just won't cooperate with such focused tasks. Any help and feedback would be appreciated.

Just got mine to replace the Mooer Bass Sweeper and I'm blown away.

I love how nicely it couples with Emma Electronic DiscumBOBulator. 

See, Disorder has a CV sockets - including ENVELOPE OUT, and DiscumBOBulator has a SIDE CHAIN INPUT. The DiscumBOBulator is an autowah by default,  but if you connect these two, DBB becomes an envelope follower, controlled by Disorder's envelope even if Disorder is turned off; as long as it's plugged in to power source, the envelope - along with its sensitivity knob - works!

They could be stacked too, of course.

I'm so glad I bought this. Despite many "for sale since I can't find use for it" threads on our forum, I find it extremely versatile. After some quality time spent finagling with the knobs and getting a feel for it I actually consider it the staple of my board and probably the most versatile pedal in my arsenal.

Despite the modest claims it's an octave pedal and fuzz pedal in one, this unit actually is:

• clean boost
• overdrive
• octave fuzz
• sub-octave fuzz
• suboctaver
• synth

Depending on setting - and yes, I do get it, 8 knobs is a LOT - I can boost my signal and add a bit of warmth (so useful with envelope filter), add warm, valve-like overdrive, and create layered fuzz, from splatty-but-brassy to octave fuzz sandwitch to synth-like tones. And that's just the Nøjs half. The Okto part can also use it to add suboctave to anything (and dial it from quite typical suboctave sound to synth-like techno subs).

Combined with my other two fuzz pedals, it can be used to dial in almost every type of fuzzy goodness, it can doom, it can do occult rock stuff, it can chug, it can also go funky... For the last few days I'm having the most fun with gain rolled down and octave added, creating an "octave blues" tone.

What an amazing pedal. If you're opposed to one-trick-pony pedals, this here is... uh, a many-tricks-kelpie.

17 hours ago, Quatschmacher said:

Cheap here (£70):

https://kmraudio.com/products/dreadbox-disorder?variant=54844119712127&currency=GBP&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21050456157&gbraid=0AAAAAD_g0Pj5MqbEFdhcAT8868UrYafQl&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj6uj6JLBjwMVVZVQBh18MAG3EAQYAiABEgLCW_D_BwE

Not after shipping to Poland. 36 quid for shipping is an OUTRAGE. Thomann ships it thrice cheaper. And Muziker ships it for free.

But thanks anyway  I'm actually tempted to grab Disorder and Komorebi - the latter offers Chorus and Flanger tones, and has LFO.

On 01/09/2025 at 17:09, soulstar89 said:

I didn’t even realise you sent this. My apologies. I don’t know what a COT-50 is. I’ll look into it and the earthquake devices blames. 
 

Man trying to find a genzler 4 on the floor used is near impossible lol. 

COT-50 is a Lovepedal "Chruch of Tone". Mine is modded so it is essentially an overdrive/booster that creates this "British valve" overdrive sound. Great for adding layers to other pedals and pushing the filters, but also great on its own for some hot sounds.

On 03/09/2025 at 15:44, Quatschmacher said:

Try with Nøjs and dry off and the gain right down on the fuzz side: makes a great basis for synth stuff into a filter.

I shall try it. I often use Nøjs only with Gain rolled to almost minimum and Level rolled to 9 o'clock, with Color and Nøjs rolled down, and it becomes a tube-like overdrive which pushes my DiscumBOBulator rather nicely (also adds extra layers to other fuzz pedals). Recently I managed to roll a rather nice sound that I'd describe as "Dark Funk".

On 03/09/2025 at 15:44, Quatschmacher said:

Source Audio spectrum is particular good as there’s decent envelope shaping tools on board.  

I like it but it's digital, I'm all analog these days  The next Envelope I want to try is Dreadbox Disorder.

My buddy built me a COT-50 derivative tweaked ever so slightly for bass and I made it more ergonomic. It adds the tube-like drive, and more overdrive when boosted, even up to low-gain fuzz levels. It improves the sound of almost any other pedal after it. It would provide what you need, but you need to dial teh drive with Level knob and volume knob(s) on your bass, otherwise it's overdriving constantly. Of course there are diagrams for COT-50 clones that have a dedicated drive/gain knob. That's one idea I'd try.

The other is Earthquaker Devices Blumes. It seems to fit your needs quite well.

17 hours ago, pantherairsoft said:

Excellent pedal, especially the fuzz side IMO!

Using it and my other dirt pedals I even managed to create a massive lo-fi bitcrushed doom sound, which is what I was dreaming of for a while now. Only tested it on headphones so far, and it sounded awesome, but I will push it through my amp's 15" speaker at my nearest convenience. Can't wait.

Now here's something quite different than your typical Muff-like/FuzzFace-like/ToneBender-like fuzz.

Emma OKTO-NØJS. While most samples online evoke that funky and synthy stuff, I'm happy to say it dooms as well especially if paired with another dirt pedal. It's fun on its own, of course, but it shines in a company. I love what it can do when coupled with an octave fuzz and/or envelope filter.

Of course it has its learning curve. Quality, fit and finish is great. It is also a looker.

Some assembly required.

I put Ernie Ball Bass Flats 2801 (45-105) on my Bronco and they busted the E-string tuner, but I think it was less from all the tension and more from finagling (I had experienced buzz and other issues that made me constantly tune, de-tune, tension and loosen the strings, until it snapped). Anyway, they play nice, but I wouldn't recommend them to anyone in doubt since they may cause problems.

First Bass Owned: heavily modded Lotos bass from Bydgoska Fabryka Akordeonów, which - when stock - was a peak bass to get in People's Republic of Poland. My modded example I got at a sorry state - it even had a replacement pickguard made of linoelum! Eesh.

'Go To' Bass: I'm most likely to grab my Bloomin' Bronco - a Squier Bronco that has stock wood and frets - everything else is deliberately swapped.

'Your' Bass: I'm torn between my Franken-Tele (a tribute to '70s Telecaster Bass II) and my TwinSplit (Encore E83 with two split-coils). Totally different sounds, but both are MY sounds.

22 hours ago, Burns-bass said:

I’ve got one of these. I take it as a spare to double bass gigs. It’s great!0

Yeah, it's a nice instrument. Mostly good quality, though the tuners quickly died on me (one broke and fell apart and others became wobbly) and had to do a costly swap. And while I was at it, nut swap came as well - Tusq XL eats the cheapo plastic for breakfast. I swapped the bridge saddles for more stability, too.

The rest of bits is fine. Frets are nicely rounded. Even the stock pickup wasn't half bad, but I wanted it to have more kick. It's a match made in... well, in some cool but formidable supernatural place.

On 21/07/2025 at 18:55, Grooverjr said:

I love that. Original and custom but not OTT. 

Thanks! I was stepping on a narrow path, but I think I managed to pull that off. Wanted to try a matching pickguard and headstock thing for years now. I need to find a cool Squier decal or sticker to put on the headstock, though. I'm not ashamed of it being a Squier.
 

On 21/07/2025 at 18:55, Grooverjr said:

I'd have thought about that wrap myself but I just realized that of my 8 basses not a one has a pickguard! 

Don't let it stop you. You can always do racing stripes with a wrap foil.

I ordered a furniture decoration from a company that had great reviews on "resilience" and happened to have a perfect pattern on hand. Just asked them to scale it down for me and they did it an no extra charge.

Here's a mockup I did in MS Paint before ordering (and deciding I will do the headstock, too) - as you can see the result is very close.

I found this weird thing - Musontek FurFur - when something tempted me to type "fuzz" into search bar of a local e-commerce platform. It immediately caught my attention do to its ridiculous looks, but I checked YouTube and was sold when a guy did nice Iommi with it and decided to chance it for bass.
Turned out it is a wonderful general purpose fuzz with attitude and lots of tonal capabilities. It can be fine tuned from regular distortion to outrageous, screaming chugs. With a low gain OF before it it shines even more. It is tiny (think Mooer size), well-made (checked the guts, the PCB is nicer than in EHX stuff!), nicely packaged, and relatively cheap.

Controls:

• FUR = Fuzz
• RUF = Volume (unity with clean signal at 9'o clock)
• L/M/H = voicing toggle (actually in a different order - I take it it's a 1-0-1 switch, so I'd argue the letters mean: L = Lancinate (bright), M = Muddy (dark), H = Heaving (medium); if the switch ever breaks, I'll substitute it with a rotary switch putting the modes in more intuitive order).
• It also has two easy-access trim-pots for BIAS and BODY on the side.

2 hours ago, Pea Turgh said:

Love this!  Great job.  Although I didn’t immediately think Doom machine.  😂

Thanks! To be honest, I fell for the stock Bronco in Tahitian Coral the first time I saw it because the color is just gorgeous and would look great with a floral pattern on the pickguard - so funky! But it quickly went from "funk machine" to "doom machine" since stoner and doom are my genres, and with the pickup that has a lot of oomph it turned out to be great for that purpose. It likes fuzzes.

Here is my doom machine I built a year ago. It's a Squier Sonic Bronco in Tahitian Coral, heavily modified and personalized, strung with Ernie Ball Bass Flats 2801.
Such a fun instrument, easy to play and great sounding. And I think the customising work I've done made it quite a looker, too.

Work done:

- Swaps:

• Pickup to Seymour Duncan SCPB-3 "Quarter Pounder" (I had to attach an additional ply of MDF with threads to the bottom and add springs to make it adjustable)
• Tuners to Gotoh GB11W
• Nut to Tusq XL
• Bridge saddles to 3-slotted vintage ones I had laying around (don't know the make)
• string tree to Gotoh TB54 string retainer
• knobs to Hosco HK-MKF

- Add-ons and personalisation:

• Fender Vintage Jazz Bass pickup cover in chrome
• custom order vinyl wrap on pickguard and headstock
• custom 12th fret "marker" done with ultra-thin vinyl wrap and GitD tape
• Fender Strap Blocks in Daphne Blue