Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

njr911

Member
  • Posts

    510
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by njr911

  1. UPDATE!

    My feeler gauges and imperial hex key set arrived yesterday so I had a play.

    The good news is the truss rod isn't maxed, just a bit stiff which isn't surprising when you think about what it's actually trying to do with a big lump of wood.

    I have now set the relief to .012

    When I did that i then got buzzing all over the fret board so up with the action slightly.

    It plays about right now, I'm still getting used to the zing and clank of roundwounds after playing on flats for the last 3 years.

    I'm also still getting used to the different feel between a jazz bazz and a P as I have never played a P for any length of time before

  2. [quote name='bakerster135' timestamp='1431092989' post='2767760']


    If I were going to be very pernickety, I'd want binding on that neck, but that's just me! ;)
    [/quote]

    Yes and a less bling scratch guard...but hey, it's Adam's bass not mine :)

  3. [quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1431073558' post='2767466']
    No probs - it's easy to get wires crossed via text - especially when both parties only know a bit about the things in question!

    Do wait till you have the appropriate sized key. USA necks ususally have 3/16th inch hex truss rod nuts. The unfortunate thing is that while 3/16th inch is about 4.7 mm - it's just the right size to damage a 5 mm hex nut. 4 mm may be able to ring a 3/16ths nut - but It's harder to mistake.
    [/quote]

    Thanks I need to buy one!

  4. [quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1430912413' post='2765813']
    Sounds about maxed you know when it is to stiff to turn I would take it to a tech and see what they say if you f*** it up it will cost you dearly and a full set up should cost about 50 quid max
    [/quote]

    Full set up from my luthier is £15. But I can do it all myself. It's just the truss rod but that's a pain

  5. I set up my new P bass at the weekend. It's the first time I have ever done it so was a bit hesitant but most things went really well.

    The bit I had most trepidation about was the truss rod. I measured the relief and it had a bit of a back bow.

    Truss rod turned quite easily for a quarter of a turn, maybe a bit less, then felt stiff, so I didn't turn it any more and checked the relief again.

    Slightly high but not too bad.

    Played great all weekend. No issues at stage volume.

    Playing it acoustically last night I have fret buzz on the 8 fret upwards. Not terrible but think I could do with less relief.

    I'm now concerned that if I give the truss rod a shove it might be maxed and I'll do some damage.

    The nut is at the body end and I have access so no neck off issues to worry about.

    The nut sits flush with the body (should it ?)



    Should I slacken the strings and help the neck with my knee while tightening the rod ?

    Should I stop being silly with a £800 bass and give it to someone who knows what they are doing ?

  6. I have two sets of brand new Fender 9050L .045 to .100 Flats for sale.

    These were bought a couple of weeks ago and I was planning on putting them on my new P bass (and a spare set for the case just in case of mid gig string breakages)

    Seeing as the P sounds great with Roto 66's - I'm going to stick with rounds for a bit.

    £20 per set.

    Cheers

  7. Played it at my gig tonight and it's great, you really can't beat a USA P bass with rounds for rock and indie.

    My set up was adequate but I need to do a bit more work on it tomorrow.

    Scratchy pot has cured it's self after a bit of use.

    I took the guard off to see if I could tell what the pickups were but not got a clue if they are original or not ?

    Not sure what those markings mean either.

    There's no shielding under the pickups but the guard is fully shielded.

    The pickup covers are not attached to the pickups and the foam is stuck tot he bottom of the pickups?

×
×
  • Create New...