jaybyname

To add- bass, treble and mid pots are 250k. New replacement ones I ordered for vol/tone and pickup blend are 2 x concentric 500k pots. (4 in total). At first I tried to replicate what was coming out and what was going back in the cavity but lost my way. The original 250k vol had a small capacitor on the earth peg soldered to the casing. Does this capacitor need to be attached to the new 500k vol pot. Thanks

Hi, thanks for reply. Preamp is visible but its just a plain black box. Turning it over reveals a multi plug and gain control. Tone control (which I was told it was at time of purchase) is the bottom knob and volume at the top. Next to it is the blend pot with crossed wires as explained above. I can locate where output wire and earth attach to the blend pot (centre detent) and middle poles for pickups. Earth from pickups originally went to the casing of the tone pot. Now....output wire from the blend pot- does this go to middle peg of vol or tone pot.

Hi all. Following on from this thread, it appears that my ongoing electrical concern is still 'broken'. Having desoldered the wires Ive put in, Im now left with a a few questions. If I explain whats left in the cavity, can some fill in the gaps?...... I have in cavity - 1 bass pot 1 treble pot 1 mid pot 1 Preamp 1 active/passive switch. All wired together as normal. [b][u]Preamp [/u][/b] 5 wires come from this that need to be re-joined to 1 volume/tone (concentric pot) and 1 blend (centre detent pot) Originally 2 wires from the preamp went to 2 lugs on the tone pot and 1 wire went to the volume pot. The remaining 2 wires were earth from the preamp which were soldered to the can of the tone pot. [u][b]Pickups[/b][/u] Hot wire to ? Ground wire to tone pot can Can anyone supply a diagram or offewr some advice? Hope you can help. Jason

Thanks for the advice. Ill try the reverse option. Just to clear things up if it helps. I have an 18v active circuit (Bass,mid,treb+active/passive switch). These then are wired to a concentric master volume(top) and tone (bottom).....then the 'new' pickup blend concentric knob. So, yeah all wires from this pot go to the master vol.

My apologies, I actually ,mean the power from the preamp. It has an 18v Active Preamp. During the hours of dismantling, I discovered the lives, the earths, the negatives etc. Ill have another look tonight when I get in

Yes to the first question. Yes to the second too although there is a seperate wire for the tags to the power source. (not bridged). Forgive the diagram below. It looks like this. [url="http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/hondog/Pot_zps5de36586.jpg"]http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv215/hondog/Pot_zps5de36586.jpg[/url]

Hi, hope all is well. I recently purchased a concentric stacked pot (6 terminals) which Im going to use as a pickup blend. Top knob is neck pickup volume and bottom knob is for the bridge. My question is, in the simplest of explanations, can someone tell me/show/diagram how to wire the pot. Ive actually wired it up already but only the bridge pickup works yet both tiers are wired the same. Pickup-middle pole, power and earth both sides. Ideas?

Great advice, thanks. As I was sanding the primer today I figured that Id do the same with the satin. Should look good. Ill buy the satin clear coat then. Just one coat? Is it thick?

Hi all, just finished the primer on my bass ready for the satin black Ive chosed. My question is, whats the best way to do it. Do I spray then sand down and spray again etc. And do I need to put a clear coat over the top? Not sure. The preparation Ive done is awesome, dont want to spoil my ggod work. Cheers. Jason

Ahh right, and my next question is, should I stain it, then leave it to dry and NOT seal/clearcoat, what would happen? Does it need a clear coat over it. (Im new to all this, sorry)

Yeah was thinking along them lines too. Should be an interesting task. Woodstain is woodstain right? There isnt specific ones for guitars etc.

Afternoon, can anyone give me any advice on how to woodstain a bass. It was originally natural with clear coat over the top but I'm thinking or stripping the clearcoat and satining it a little darker. Is this an easy task, can you reccomend a decent wood dye/stain etc. Thanks Jason

Hi, hope all is well. Just received my cheapy 7 string bass from china!! All great including hardware, but the pickups let it down. So my question is, can I change to 1 complete soapbar pickup and if so, do I go for a 6 string or a 7 string pickup. String spacing at bridge looks about 15mm. Current pickups are 4" x 2" in a P-Bass formation. Can this be done? Im quessing a 6 string would work but not sure. Can you help? Jason

Well.....many thanks for the advice. Again. I'm actually looking forward to 'starting again'. Just out of interest, does anyone actually live in the north east area and is 'up' for some bass teaching? Nothing flash. Cheers

Yeah, standard 4ths tuning BEADGCF. Was actually thinking along the same lines as a standard 4 string book. I'm sure I can work something out. Makes a change to play my bass in silence in my living room. Never really had the time to sit and learn the basics.

Good morning, can anyone point me in the right direction of a good chord/scale book for a 7 string bass. Is there such a thing etc. Im so out of practice with the basics, and now that I have plenty of time on my hands I thought it would be helpful to refresh my memory. Anyone?

Managed to locate a .25 rotosound to match the RS6666LD set I have. Quite a thick gauge set which Im happy with. I like bass strings to windings on them. This .20 I was supplied looks like fuse wire. Thats guitarist territory!

And in general. Whats an ideal string gauge set up for a 7 string?

Hi guys, quick question. Managed to pick up a full set of strings for my 7 string bass and noticed the high F looks like a chesse wire. Is this the norm? Wondered if I collected the wrong one. I assumed it would hav a little winding around the core. New to the 7 string so not sure what to expect. I bought rotsounds RS666LD .130 - .35 for a 6 string then an addition .20 gauge f string. Have I done right here?

On a similar note, is there a specific reason why my individual bass bridges are in a stepped formation. If I was to adjust, what harm is there in lining them all up again to create some symmetry to the neck. That make sense? Im thinking of stripping and re-fitting the 7 individual bridges in line with eachother then correcting the saddles/intonation later.

Aye, the very ones. Pictures don't do them any justice. I was very surprised last night as I opened the box. Need to file the nut a little and re-seat the neck but other than that, superb quailty. Had visions of a neck heavy instrument, but well balanced. Full scale 34" too. F plays and sounds normal amped and acoustic. No buzz. Ill have another look around it again, but will post pics of the bridge later. Thanks for advice.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1317120053' post='1386875'] Hi - I'm a seven string player. Can you post a picture of the saddle? It certainly doesn't sound right! What is the make and model of the Bass you have received? I'll be able to advise further re gauges of strings. Hopefully the wonky saddle isn't impeding the movement of the string and will be fine, though it sounds like bad manufacture if it isn't straight. If you want to tune down to F# then don't use a B string (130 gauge) - it'll be floppy and very quiet in comparison to the other strings, especially if you have a 34" scale bass. The lowest gauge I have managed on an F# was a custom made 145 string by Newtone - the string was specially manufactured to keep the tension high on a low tuning. - My current strings are Rotosounds and they make a .175 gauge string which to be honest is a great place to start. 165 would be your minimum at least on a 35" scale. Warwick manufacture the 'Dark Lord' set which also includes a .175 and other US brands such as Conklin and SIT do heavy gauge strings too. Rotosound however is easily available in the UK as you probably already know! Doooooooooooooooood [/quote] Many thanks for the advice, heres the link which tempted me. As I already play 6 string and was interested in going 7, I found this dodgy supplier on ebay who although his communication, pictures and delivery time were atrocious, the bass arrived yesterday and its a stunner, really really good. Passive electronics, but damn fine build and weight. I think I ripped him off. These are underated basses for the cash. If you want a cheapy, just buy these until your ready to play with the big boys!!! Can't really see the saddles clearly but as there individual, they look slighty off towards the f saddle. [url="http://www.maxetone.com/JGallery/index.php?view=category&catid=168&option=com_joomgallery&Itemid=2"][font="Calibri"][color="#0000ff"]http://www.maxetone.com/JGallery/index.php?view=category&catid=168&option=com_joomgallery&Itemid=2[/color][/font][/url]

Ok, so i was to go to my local shop and make up a set. I would buy 2 x B strings. a 130. (as normal) and a 145. which I would then tuned to F#. Is this correct? How about my bass bridge line-up as mentioned above. Does this sound right? Looking at the bass, it looks like an optical effect but Im convinced its not straight or at least how it should be.

Hi all. Just a couple fo things I need advice on. Just received my 7 string bass yesterday and was wanting some advice/guidance on the set up. I have individual bridges and although they seem lined up the F string saddle seems to be off centre or the string goes over the bridge straight then changes angle to carry on inline with the neck. Plays and sounds fine, just looks a bit off. Just wondered if this is the norm on extended range basses? Also, if I want to go for the low f# do I buy another low B and tune that to F. Thats 2 low b's ill have. Is this right.

[quote name='Shawman' post='1325469' date='Aug 3 2011, 11:54 AM']just out of curiosity, the bass in the OP, would that still be classed as a P-bass setup or some kind of hybrid?[/quote] Maybe a hybrid. Looks like 2 humbuckers squeezed in. Im not expecting miracles with the sound. I imagine that close together and no active curcuitry would limit the sound altogether.