son of frog

BUMP

A lot of interest but still available guys.
Hard to believe to be honest.

PRICE DROP £320

BUMP

You're right Marc, the bass keeper is going to be missed sorely by me... I was trying to find a way of incorporating it into the new set up but alas the only viable option would have been attaching Velcro to my shiny new cab... hell no!

I travel all over for various gigs, I will be in the Surrey area next week but unfortunately I'm going down on public transport... this cab is light but not sure if I want to lug it, I'll let you know if anything changes.

PM'd

:-)

BUMP

PRICE DROP £320

I have just bought a BareFaced cab from a member on here so need to let this great cab go unfortunately to save some space.

This is my MarkBass 2x10" cab, it's in overall good condition, the covering is a little fluffy in some areas, the cabinet has mostly been kept in storage for 3-4 years, other than that it has been gigged on around 10-12times with a matching Little Mark head.

The cab comes complete with a great quality official MarkBass Padded cover and a MarkBass Bass Keeper which can Velcro to the cab and hold your bass in place, which I found much easier than taking a bulky guitar stand to gigs.
These extras alone cost around £75.

The cab has a tweeter control on the left side as well as two Speakon/Jack combo inputs on the back, it is the 8ohm version so can be used on its own or with other 8ohm cabs.
This thing is light, it's a great cab for a gigging bass player and is an easy one hand carry from the car.

I am based in Roath, CF24, Cardiff for collection, any other questions please feel free to get in touch.

Here's what MarkBass say about the 102P

IMPEDENCE
8 or 4 ohms

SPEAKER SIZE
2x10 in.

BASS PORT
rear

TWEETER
piezo

POWER HANDLING
400W RMS (AES Standard)

CROSSOVER FREQUENCY
3.5 kHz

FREQUENCY RESPONSE
45 Hz to 18 kHz

SENSITIVITY
101 dB SPL

WEIGHT
27.78 lbs / 12.6 Kg 

WIDTH
23.23 in. / 59 cm

HEIGHT
12.60 in. / 32 cm

DEPTH
17.13 in. / 43.5 cm

Pictures:

[URL=http://s199.photobucket.com/user/sonoffrog/media/IMG_9025.jpg.html][IMG]http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa17/sonoffrog/IMG_9025.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s199.photobucket.com/user/sonoffrog/media/IMG_9030.jpg.html][IMG]http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa17/sonoffrog/IMG_9030.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s199.photobucket.com/user/sonoffrog/media/IMG_9026.jpg.html][IMG]http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa17/sonoffrog/IMG_9026.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s199.photobucket.com/user/sonoffrog/media/IMG_9029.jpg.html][IMG]http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa17/sonoffrog/IMG_9029.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s199.photobucket.com/user/sonoffrog/media/IMG_9027.jpg.html][IMG]http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa17/sonoffrog/IMG_9027.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

PRICE DROP £320

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1320152457' post='1422951']

No need to be sorry - asking questions when you don't know the answer is smart .

All the earths need to join up.
All the pot casings need to be joined together, the wire from the bridge needs to join a pot case as does the earth wire from the jack socket.
[/quote]


Great, thanks for the help, and those pics are great ikay,
Isn't it the job of the aluminium pick-guard shield to join the pot casings together?

Excuse my ignorance but what / where are the earths on a Bass?

Also where do i wire the pickup ground plate to... this is all i need to know now.

And in response to Geek99, yes i did consider getting someone to do it for me, but the only good bass tech i know is in london, and since i'm replacing the pickups and electronics anyway, and the originals were lost, i'm not too worried about keeping it 100% original & authentic.
-Tom

Hmm okay, so wire everything to the tone pot, what about the bridge, does that need to be grounded like on most bases... sorry im a total electrics and wiring amateur...

Hiya

I've recently been given a 1962 precision bass by a close family friend, he had it in his garage for years gathering dust because sadly, its in pretty awful condition, the wiring was taken out to be rewired long ago and never put back in, it was since lost,

Luckily i've managed to get some period appropriate parts, some of which are from the 60s also.

I just need to know what i'm wiring and to where... does anyone have any useful wiring diagrams and / or pictures,

Some of the things like the Pickup grounding plate, and the aluminium pick guard shield, both of which i have had to replace, i don't know what i should be wiring to... if anything at all, In some photos i've seen that the pickups have been wired of the grounding plate, but i don't know where from,

I have got in my possession, a second hand wiring harness and pickups, off another 60's p bass, which is already in working condition, with pots and resistors etc, i just need to know where i'm grounding the harness to, and what else i need, if anything other than what i've already mentioned...?

I have:
-Wiring (all up together, including pots and Pickups)
-Pickguard Aluminium shield
-Pickup grounding plate



Can anybody help me?

Many Thanks
-Tom

Hiya everyone!

Basically, i'm looking to re-cover (in Tolex) my beaten up old Ampeg 8x10...

I would rather not do it myself though, does anyone know anyone / anywhere around Surrey (Guildford) i could get this done, i remember seeing a website that sells the appropriate Tolex, so getting hold of that isn't a problem, But i am no carpenter...!


I may also be looking to replace the grill on the front... and of course the white piping...
The wooden grill frame has become warped in its old age and no longer fits onto the front of the cabinet straight, so i may be thinking about a full restoration.

Does anyone know anyone who does this, preferably local to me.

Thanks!
-Tom

In terms of technical ability its not too hard, seems very similar to grade 6 stuff,

although as for the rest i cant tell you, i was supposed to take 8, but never did, didnt seem any point,

if you want to teach freelance at home / at schools you dont need grades, and if you want to be a teacher at a music academy etc, youll most likely need a degree, which i have opted for.

unless by some chance its for... Fun..?
in which case technically the tracks are quite, i remember distinctly one having an improvised tapping solo section, great fun... cant tell you much about what the theory knowledge would be like...

Ditto,

i too have 2 good quality gig bags i would be willing to trade, but again too far to drive there...

Right well its finished, finally! ...Practically anyway!

some parts took ages to get here from the US.

just needs a tort pickguard etc.










really happy with it... had to sort out the truss rod... it was completely loose, so i assume straight off the factory floor!

it actually plays and sounds better than my genuine fender which i am quite shocked about really considering its probably cost me less than £300!!!

EDIT: also i have used the lemon oil on the fretboard, and it has darkened it to some extent, now its just how i like it!

-Tom

as opposed to the bronco being in the Affinity series...

If its thru body stringing, and has some decent hardware i'd say its not badly priced, considering a lot of new, dare i say Higher end, Squiers are going for £300 and over.

The jazz with P pickups looks hideous, but probably sounds monstrous...

I personally like the look of the Precision with those big block pickups, but not in those colours... basically Silver or Black... I would want white, or a nice black with Maple fretboard.


I also need to stop buying P basses now so i shouldn't be looking at this... i'm up to about 4.

Ohhhhh noooooo.....

i hate you... i hate you all...

I now have another bass i am GAS-ing for....

BUMP.

still up for sale at this extremely reasonable price...

someone else asked me for dimensions, so here they are.

[size=6]NOW SOLD. [/size]

SORRY SHOULD HAVE UPDATED AGES AGO

well yeah, fair point.

but i ride a motorbike and i need the instruments to be secure on my back,
and the Electric is a small Fender mustang, looking for a solution that can save me space and weight.

the most secure way i can think of is having two well fitted bags, just wondered if anyone had seen a product like this anywhere before.

Hiya
does anyone know of a Double guitar gig-bag,
but with a bass section and another section smaller to fit an Electric 6 string snuggly,

I've been looking around for one for ages, Preferably needs to have strong straps and zips.

Something like the top range of Ritter bags would be nice, but it seems no-one yet has picked up on this market.

Anyone got any potential products or ideas?

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='1247533' date='May 27 2011, 08:19 PM']You dont need to leave to harden after wet sanding.Depending on how much you T-Cut will determine the ammount of shine you end up with.1200 grit and above should be good.[/quote]

fair enough.

cheers for the help, i'll post some pictures after the weekend, it'll hopefully be done by then.

it literally just pops out a bit, but i kind of like it, and when i sand yeah it will probably disappear...
thanks for he great advice


so do you think i should use 1200 grit wet?

or go with something more abrasive?

after i sand i was planing to leave it for about 48 hours to let it harden again before T-cutting it then polishing, is this okay?

please forgive all my questions... i'm just very concerned i'm going to screw it up... it seemed like such a good idea at the time...

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='1245259' date='May 26 2011, 09:48 AM']I use the finest grit wet and dry paper to sand back,if you do put 10 coats of laquer on it will be ok.then polish back up with an abrasive polish to remove scratches.[/quote]

cool, sand dry and then wet or just wet? about 1200 or 1500 grit?

also i've done about 15 light coats now and the decals still doesn't seem to have sunk in to a factory finish... should i just keep going?

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='1243993' date='May 25 2011, 10:42 AM']What parts did you use ?
IMO,it would look better with the gloss knocked back a bit.And another reccomendation for a tort guard.[/quote]

Yeah definitely needs a tort pickguard, thats on the list too,

the neck came from here by the way, actually great quality and not too pricey,

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/60s-Retro-P-Bass-neck-rosewood-fingerboard-skunk-str-/250796075408?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D182127655563384374#ht_500wt_737"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/60s-Retro-P-Bass-nec...74#ht_500wt_737[/url]

and i like seymour duncans... lets just say it was a 1962 p bass that someone decided to disgrace with aftermarket parts!

As for the gloss, yeah, i'm currently halfords lacquering the logo in place to make it sink in and look flush against the wood, so thats knocking some of the glossy finish off, but i need to polish it up again after that.

I was told that after about 10 or so coats of lacquer when the decal finally sinks in i should leave to dry (48 hrs) sandpaper the headstock face and then polish it up, this seems like a bit of a risk, is there no way i can just T-Cut and polish it after leaving the lacquer to dry for a couple of days or so?


now off to add another coat of lacquer!...