mart

[quote name='Shockwave' post='1065875' date='Dec 21 2010, 04:24 PM']Gotta love TM stevens, crazy as they come! I would love a Warwick Chrometone 5 string![/quote]

There was a chrome-tone LX 5 that sold on ebay the other week for just £700.

[quote name='thebrig' post='1059051' date='Dec 14 2010, 09:59 PM']They tighten up fine if I leave the washer off, but you have to have the washer on.
Strange that it is just one tuner on each bass, that is causing problems.[/quote]

Is it the same tuner on both basses?

Try swopping one of the ill-fitting tuners with one of the others to see if the problem is with the tuner or the hole. If the problem is with the tuner then compare it with one of the good ones and see if you can spot any difference. At least that'll then be easy to replace and fix. If the problem seems to be with the hole then see if you can take some measurements and, again, compare with a "good" hole.

The 2009 bass should still be under warranty, so you should go back to your dealer or talk to Warwick. But the more information you have, the more help you'll get, which is why I suggest swapping things around first.

I knew I'd seen someone selling/trading a 2006 fretless Thumb somewhere, and here's where:
[url="http://forum.warwick.de/24-basses/13285-thumb-nt-sale-maybe-trade.html"]http://forum.warwick.de/24-basses/13285-th...aybe-trade.html[/url]

[quote name='thebrig' post='1058836' date='Dec 14 2010, 06:58 PM']I have two Warwick Corvettes, and on both of them, the nut part that goes through the hole keeps working loose.
It seems that they are not long enough to tighten properly, barely catching the thread, so as soon as you start tightening the string, it just comes loose.
On one of my corvettes the tuners are chrome, and on the other one they are gold, but but both seem to have the same problem.
Has anyone else experienced this with Warwick tuners, and if so, what is the remedy?
I would love some advice on this.
Cheers[/quote]

Somebody on the Warwick forum had this problem, and it turned out that his bass had a gloss finish that was extra thick, and the tuners weren't long enough to cope with the extra thickness. There was also mention of a dodgy batch of tuners.

Try contacting Warwick directly ([url="http://www.warwick.de/modules/support/request.php?katID=14549&cl=EN"]click here for link[/url]) and see what they say.

[quote name='daz' post='1058135' date='Dec 14 2010, 03:28 AM']My Squier, Peavey, and Woodfield all have them. As stated it looks like a bit of pipe cut off to the shape of the hole.[/quote]

On my Fender Strat it's brown and very clearly made out of wood. So perhaps you could bung a bit of wood in and drill through it?

[quote name='karlfer' post='1057821' date='Dec 13 2010, 08:56 PM']I'm still smirking about the J.Arthur Rank.
Thought I was the only one old enough to remember that one.
Karl.

PS, Mart.

Thanks very much for the full version of God gave Rock and Roll to you.

Argent In Deep, fantastic album, sadly long gone the with 300 plus other big bits of vinyl. How could I have been so stupid?[/quote]

Glad you liked it - I'm not a fan myself, but I thought the guitar was appropriate.

What's wrong with holes?

Bump! Anybody want to PM me an offer?

I've always preferred flats - I don't like too much zing. And after trying Thomastiks I've never looked back - I love the feel of them, and the sound.

I've got one spare ticket for the Belle & Sebastian gig at Bristol Colston Hall this Thursday, December 16th. The gig has been sold out for a while, and the cover price is £25, so I'll start off by asking for £20.

I don't trust the post to deliver in time, so I'll arrange a meet-up with the buyer outside the venue where we can swap ticket and cash.

I just bought some strings off Matt/Neepheid and everything was perfect - quick delivery, good packaging, good condition. A pleasure to deal with.

[quote name='MarkBassChat' post='1053664' date='Dec 10 2010, 06:52 AM']....
The problem can be caused by the battery connector shorted to the ground inside the jack (this also can be easily tested with a multimeter). If this is the case, you have to replace the jack.

Mark[/quote]

I hadn't thought of that, but yes, there could be a short within the jack. Put your multimeter across the two pins (on your jack socket) that have black wires attached and measure the resistance - it should be infinite. If not, then replace the socket - Maplins will have a replacement for a couple of quid.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' post='1053714' date='Dec 10 2010, 09:00 AM']The question mark is because the wire goes into a hole pointing in the direction of the battery compartment. It's about 1 1/2" away, I can't be 100% certain that it goes to the battery (95%)[/quote]

From that picture it certainly looks like the wiring is correct. I'd do the multimeter test - to see what the current drain is without a cable plugged in (which, based on that picture, will be zero, I expect) and with the cable plugged in. If the preamp is eating batteries then it may be that somehow it is drawing a large current when it's switched on.

To check the current draw, twist the battery so only one of its terminals is plugged into the connector, and then put the multimeter between the other connector, and the other battery terminal. It doesn't matter which way round you put the meter. You'll need it set to a fairly fine setting, because the current should be a small number of milliAmps.

[quote name='Darkstrike' post='1050724' date='Dec 7 2010, 04:55 PM']Heh, I'm betting it's 100% this part of the quote.

"I also changed my E string to a heavier .125 from a 5-string set."

[/quote]

Ha! Well, that would help too!

I just bought some pickups from WHUFC and he was great to deal with - everything was exactly as described, well packed, and despatched promptly. Highly recommended

[quote name='neepheid' post='1049875' date='Dec 6 2010, 09:04 PM']For sale is a set of TI Jazz flats which I haven't played much, a couple of hours tops. Unfortunately they were cut for a 2 + 2 headstock so they won't fit a 4 in line headstock. I did leave a lot of wraps on the D string so they should fit a 3 + 1 arrangement a la Stingray, but I'll give you the measurements here:

E string - ball to silk 37" total length 43"
A string - ball to silk 37.5" total length 46"
D string - ball to silk 37.5" total length 45.5"
G string - ball to silk 37.5" total length 41.875"

The gauges are 43, 56, 70, 100

I could keep a hold of them and throw them in a drawer until I get bitten by the flatwound bug again but I could do with realising some funds and it's better if they go to someone who'll use them. They're around £35 new, so how about £15 posted? An inexpensive way of getting a set of flatwound strings - if they fit your bass![/quote]

PM'd - I can always use a spare set of TIs.

[quote name='henry norton' post='1050188' date='Dec 7 2010, 09:02 AM']Like SteveO says, actives are normally switched on when you're plugged in - the actives are wired 'on' all the time and plugging in usually completes the negative/earthing side of the circuit, so the first place to look would be the wires coming from the circuit to the jack socket.[/quote]

You can check this by putting a multimeter in between one of the battery terminals and its connector. With the jack lead not plugged in you should see no current going through the meter, but with the lead plugged in you should see a small but noticeable amount of current.

Actually, probably the first thing to check is this: is the jack socket stereo? If not, then the battery will be on all the time. You can modify this by replacing the jack socket with a stereo one, and linking the black lead from the battery to the "extra" tab on the socket.

[quote name='silentbob' post='1046491' date='Dec 3 2010, 04:03 PM']Found the article
"With the band tuning down for many of its songs, Burch wrestled with pitch problems playing his American-made Fender Precision. “The tuning on my bass is low: C#G#C#F#. That’s a half-step down and another full step for the E string. As a result, the string tension is really low. Heavy-gauge strings helped, but if I hit a note, the motion and arc of the string would create tension and pull the note sharp.” When a tour-bus snafu snapped the neck in two, he brought the bass back to Fender Custom Shop’s Alex Perez for repairs—and an unexpected solution. “Alex explained that the more the strings are under tension, the more stable the note is going to be. He did for me what he’d done for other players, which is to put a left-handed neck on a right-handed bass. That made the E string—my low C#—the longest string from the peg to the bridge instead of the shortest. It’s amazing how stable the note is now. I also changed my E string to a heavier .125 from a 5-string set.”"

To be honest, i don't really understand the techy stuff, but like we said, it does look bloody cool, and gives me an excuse to have another bass in the house, which i can leave tuned to drop D. [/quote]

That makes sense. As you pluck the string you add a bit of tension, because you're stretching the string, and if the string has low tension to begin with (being tuned down), then what you're adding is significant in proportion, so will have an audible effect on tuning. Having a longer length between tuning peg and bridge does actually reduce the extra tension that plucking produces - essentially you're spreading that plucking effect across more string, so it's dissipated more. (To be more precise, when you pluck, you create extra tension between nut and saddle, but this extra tension then pulls the string across the nut away from the tuning peg. The more string that there is beyond the nut, the more string will cross over the nut, which eases the tension between nut and saddle. Of course, the same thing is happening down at the saddle, so through-body stringing will also help).

[quote name='Faithless' post='1049055' date='Dec 6 2010, 10:02 AM']Hmm, I've been looking at these Genz combos for quite some time now, and I haven't yet found another thing that portable and that lightweight..

While these things are the main priorities, I got a headache of choosing between 8" and 10" cab versions..

...[/quote]

When I went to Bassdirect to buy a shuttle combo a few years ago, I wanted to try the 8" version, but they basically said not to bother - the 10" was much better. So I don't know how different the sound is, but I bought the 10" and haven't looked back!

I love those Eastwood guitars! The Fender Esquare is particularly neat:

If you fancy it, have a look at his gallery:
[url="http://www.brianeastwoodguitars.co.uk/gallery.html"]http://www.brianeastwoodguitars.co.uk/gallery.html[/url]

[quote name='jonsmith' post='1048489' date='Dec 5 2010, 06:00 PM']The Smith book has some errors/omissions and this is one of them.

Here are the words of John Hall, Rickenbacker CEO on the subject of set necks on 4000 and 4001s basses, taken from the Rickenbacker Forum:

[i]"No. Very few did. I would guess that less than 5% wre made as set necks, the rest being neck-through."[/i]

I'll go for his word over the Smith book, besides there are people that have examples. I don't think you'll find a 4000 series bass with a bolt on neck either (2000 and 3000 is another story).[/quote]

Ah, ok, thank you - I stand corrected! You learn something new everyday ...

And thanks to Musky for the picture - I did notice that the Smith book has virtually no rear views, so it's hard to be sure about neck construction on anything.

If anybody's wondering, I can highly recommend both books - they are slightly different but good sources of ideas and inspiration. The only reason I'm not buying is that I already own a copy of both!

According to "The Complete History of Rickenbacker Guitars" by Richard R. Smith, the difference between deluxe and standard (S) models is:
[quote]Deluxe models had triangle shaped finger board inlays, bound necks, and bound bodies. Standard models had dot inlays and no bindings. ... A Rick-O-Sound stereo jack was usually another Deluxe feature after mid 1960.[/quote]

As for set-neck instruments, the book does describe many Rickenbacker guitars as having glued-in necks, but for basses it says:
[quote]The Professional Series Basses all have the neck-through-body construction: Rickenbacker still feels this is the best. Despite this philosophy, the company also recognizes that they can make high quality instruments using the more economical approach [the bolt-on neck used by Fender] and introduced new, lower cost basses in the 1970s and 1980s with removable necks.[/quote]
I don't think anybody would claim a set-neck to be "removable", so this supports the claim that Rickenbacker have never made a set-neck bass - just neck-through or bolt-on.

[quote name='Faithless' post='1046076' date='Dec 3 2010, 10:27 AM']Well, Mr. Mart must be right about 'custom' thing.. Though, I was told that this bass specs were the best available(and the most expensive, I assume) you could get when ordering..[/quote]

Yep, going by the current Warwick UK pricelist, that spec makes that Infinity just about the most expensive bass Warwick do (apart from the insanely priced signature models).

This gets asked at the Warwick forum quite frequently. Have a look at the wiki/faq there for some tips:
[url="http://forum.warwick.de/content/110-how-do-i-wax-my-bass.html"]http://forum.warwick.de/content/110-how-do...ax-my-bass.html[/url]