lettsguitars

I assume the band like to add their own stamp on the songs? Maybe throw in that extra note every now and then if that's what they want.

[quote name='mentalextra' timestamp='1359304967' post='1952773']
I thought that too. looks odd. Although there doesn't appear to be very much string around the post either which isnt helping
[/quote]Plenty of string on there. The less the better, within reason of course. More string on the post certainly wouldn't affect the angle of the A which I agree is a little sharp but I cant imagine it would have any adverse effects.

Why have a set neck yet still include the block heel and poor upper fret access? In fact why have those last few frets at all?

Head less bass? So do you just get the head then?

Mint condition! (apart from the missing pickgaurd screw).

Wenge. It was added to make the headstock volute slightly longer. I have the other cover for the humbucker too if that will help with the sale. We just agreed it looked cooler without it. Pickups are I.M.P which are no longer available. Plays and sounds great.
The active/passive switch is inside the cavity as Lou never used it. It can easily be placed on the top of the bass though with a 6mm drill bit.

[quote name='William Shakespeare' timestamp='1359113199' post='1950010']
Heed this advice, all humbled on your knees

Yield not thy neck
To fortune's yoke, but let thy truss rod
Still ride in triumph over all mischance
[/quote] Always listen to the prose people!

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1359059928' post='1949342']
Without wishing to state the obvious that neck is screwed. Hopefully MM will sort you out with a new one.

Its really stressful when a neck goes rogue. I owned a Jaydee Supernatural in the 80's that developed a terminal back bow that ruined the instrument. It was literally akin to Robin Hood's weapon of choice. This was found to be down to a rotten batch of Mahogany that JD had acquired. More recently I owned a Lakland that developed a large crack in the neck...it suddenly appeared and was growing every day. Credit where credit is due Lakland shipped me a new neck within days and paid for renowned Luthier Jimmy Moon to fit it and set my bass up with new strings at the same time.

Lakland = awesome company.
[/quote]There you go. It can happen to anybody. Not the end of the world in most cases and I'm glad they seem to be taking you seriously.

I guess so.

Indeed this is not something you see every day. Should be sorted no questions asked.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1359050390' post='1949106']
The OPs bass I presume has a bent neck but the pre EB is just because of the misplaced bridge, remeber that it is 30+ years old and not an EBMM product in any way however similar they look.

I think it should get a new neck even if its a few years old, I have never seen it before and its not fit for purpose is it so the 12 month warranty is neither here nor there these days, best of luck with it
[/quote]Correct. Although I dont see how the age of an instrument has any impact on build quality. A human is just as competent at aligning a bridge as any computer. I dont think anyone is having a go at EB, in fact I'm pretty sure this thread is mostly made up of mm fans. Bridges are aligned badly on a great deal of commercial instruments old and new. You see it all the time.

It isn't the bridge! You can see in the pic what the op is saying. If you watch the line he has drawn along the neck you see that the neck clearly bows in the middle.

Worth watching all of these vids. He shows here just how easy it is to adjust a truss rod. This is a single action traditional style rod but the same applies to dual action rods.
[media]http://youtu.be/_cnfeyXy7Wg[/media]

You do need people who are on the same level musically as yourself so people who just sing (generally speaking) can be real trouble.

Ask for a guitar player who can sing. Or do it yourself (singing and bass playing is hard I know). The less people in a band the better (unless it's a big band of course ) so multi instrumentalists are the way to go.

It is very important to know what finish, if any is already on a piece before you start throwing other products at it. If the neck has a natural finish then you can wax it which is slightly more protective and harder than oil. Just laquer the headstock.

The idea of waiting 24 hrs for a neck to settle is not true. Do not be afraid of truss rods. They are there for user adjustments and are the simplest thing in the world to adjust. A neck should move instantly. INSTANTLY!
If possible lightly clamp the neck in position with cauls while you put the screws in. You can even drill the holes while it is clamped using the existing holes in the heel as a guide. It can get a little cramped but is the best way if you think ahead and get it right first time.

I must say. I'm not sure he would be the choice for your quest. His shapes are very cool if unorthodox and I'm a big fan. However I think Shuker or maybe RIM would be the best options for a Fenderesque instrument.

Great looking bass mate.

He is. Just head over to the affiliates section.

[quote name='NURZE' timestamp='1359037130' post='1948799']
In some cases that will be the main reason.

But in my case it's the entire neck that's crooked and the bridge seems to be crooked as well...

I'll post better pics when I get it back...
[/quote]You need to tell them the neck has warped over time. It is a definate bow (sideways bow). Necks obviously bow upwards when under tension hence the need for truss rods. A neck should never ever EVER bow to the side like. It is wholly unacceptable and should be replaced!

[quote name='bigthumb' timestamp='1359035643' post='1948762']
Indeed!


[/quote] How do they do that?

[quote name='bigthumb' timestamp='1359035231' post='1948756']
I had one with a similar problem, the G string being VERY close to the edge of the fingerboard thus constantly slipping off! Right pain in the rear end.
Hope you get it sorted.
[/quote]A simple case of the bridge being in the wrong place again.

Wood is very good at holding tension and would not move continually due to this tension. It settles into a position and that's your lot. The only thing that will bend wood is high temperature. The way the wood is sawn also does not cause continual movement like this. When you cut a piece of wood it does move but is usually a single movement and becomes a permanent and constant bow or cup, or both. The main reason for continual movement such as this, is the woods moisture content. Wood that is prepared in hot humid countries that is then shipped and stored in temperate to cold climates will gradually lose it's moisture and move in constant relation to the the moisture content. Also when you buy guitars that are made in factories they contain wood that is kiln dried by the ton and you will always get a few problem pieces or even a whole batch that is dried badly (necks especially). Kiln drying is actually not the ideal method to season musical instrument timber for various reasons which are google-able.
If you bought this from new you should definately be entitled to a new bass as the materials used would seem unsuitable. Please dont quote me when consulting mm as I'm sure they have many evil lawyers at work around the globe. They could argue that you have stored your guitar in unsuitable conditions ie next to a radiator, in a sauna etc.

Fast fret? yeeuck! I hate it! Coats your strings and fretboard in rubbish. Just clean your strings with lighter fluid.