Eviljohn½

I'll do that. Thank you. I also have an 8ohm 2x10 cab that i could use instead of the 4ohm 1x12. I'll use that at a different session just so i don't change everything at once. Thanks for replies chaps. Much appreciated.

The time it got REAL hot, it was running into an Eden ex112 4ohm cab. I've used that setup before but not had that heat issue. Only difference i can remember were my settings. I had cranked the gain on the amp quite high, something around 3 o'clock i think and the master volume was about halfway. I was running the tidal wave, drive about 3/4, volume maybe just below halfway. I was also using the zoom b1on with a distorion pedal almost always on. Sounded awesome but like i said, the amp did get hot.

My Elf used to get warm but never hot. The gnome has gotten warm before but not hot. That time is was actually hot. It did get warm last time i used it but not hot. I did also put some things under it to raise it up off the cab it was sitting on. Nothing on the top of it, ever. Think i should figure out something to raise it up off the cab it was sitting on. The fan does kick in but i admit i haven't religously monitored it. I will next time i use it. Is there anything other than restricted circulation that could cause it to get real hot? Just for me to consider next time i use it. Thank you for stopping by and leaving guidance. Very much appreciated.

Hi all. Hope you are well. I recently switched from using a Trace Elliot Elf to the Warwick gnome ipro, 300w. All was good the first few times i used it, but at one rehearsal, i had my Joyo Tidal Wave in front of it and at the end of the 4 hour session, the amp was actually hot. My signal chain was: Warwick rockbass streamer standard - zoom b1on - dopefx rams head - proco rat- joyo tidal wave - warwick gnome ipro - eden ex112. I tried to get the eq on the gnome kinda flat as i wanted to use the eq on the tidal wave. I understand this isn't done by setting the eq controls on the gnome to 12, i cut the treble and bass to about 10 o'clock and the mids to about 9 o'clock. The gain and volume were cranked on both the tidal wave and the gnome. I was pretty happy with the tone until i went to pack up and found the amp was actually hot to touch. Could this have been caused by running the tidal wave into it and cranking the pedal AND the amp? Is the gnome prone to getting hot? Can anyone recommend a way to use this setup without melting my amp? I'm new to using a preamp pedal but i really like the tone the tidal wave gives me. Do i need to consider a different amp to pair it with? Thank you for stopping by and any guidance you are able to give.

Absolutely no point in me rewiring a speaker cab for a one-off rehearsal thing. The hope is just for the guitarist to be able to use his preamp pedal into stereo power amp. Think he may just have to ditch the preamp-power amp setup and go straight into a house amp. Thanks for getting back to me though. Very much appreciated.

Afternoon all. Hoping to get some guidance on using my Harley Benton 2x10 as part of a stereo setup for guitar. Here's the situation: We have a rehearsal space booked somewhere we have not used before. The guitarists setup uses a stereo power amp and preamp. I have a 2x10 bass cab, (Harley Benton BB210t,) that i have said he can potentially use if it doesn't cause any issues with his or my gear. I'm confident the speakers are not wired stereo. Is it doable with this cab or will damage be done? I do have a seperate DI box if sending one of the channels to PA is an option. Thank you for any guidance you are able to give. Very much appreciated.

I am torn between which pot to replace with but will decide at some point. I have an unused standard 500k cts pot which is the reason i am considering that option. I only use it in humbucking mode anyway, i have another bass with push-pull option. Only reason for push-pull for me would be if i choose to sell down the line. I'll have another look for that code on the pot. Thank you for inputs so far.

Thanks for confirmation. Pot to pickup is one sleeve, 4 wires inside. Confident i can change this if i need to. I have wiring diagram.

Evening all. Hope your weekend is going super smoove. I've had a Warwick Rockbass Streamer Standard 4 string for a few years now. The push-pull volume pot has seen better days so i'm looking to replace it. Feels a little loose through the turn nowadays, more so at either end. Dumb question first, think i know the answer, just need confirmation: If i replace the push-pull pot with just a standard pot, that will mean i just have the humbucker, no other tone? Now that is out of the way, what value pot should i be looking at replacing with? 250k or 500k? If i change to the standard pot, do i need to replace the wire between the pot and the pickup? Thank you for stopping by and any guidance you can give. Please feel free to expand on any info if you think it would be helpful.

Hi all. Hope you are well. Bought a preloved Warwick rockbass streamer a while ago. A previous owner stripped the guitar back to paint the body but the wiring has gone back incorrectly. The push pull pot, volume, basically acts as a kill switch when pushed in, instead of doing whatever it does to the signal from the pickup. I have the wiring diagram, think i have figured out the issue and i'm confident i can fix it, just looking for confirmation before i go firing up the soldering iron. If i understand the wiring diagram correctly, the black wire from the pickup should be connected to lug number 6, but it's actually been soldered to a tab at the base of the pot, not even a lug. Is it just a case of me moving this connection? Thank you in advance for any guidance you can give, very much appreciated.