Ajoten

I was reading a thread about how in terms of the SR range, Ibanez consider any model with a number over SR1000 to be pro grade. What does that mean? And how do I compare that to other brands? Is any Warwick that isn't a Rockbass pro level? Is any Mexican Fender not pro? Is any instrument under £1000 or other arbitrary price still not pro? Yesyesyes, I know that "what you do with it" is the important thing... but wtvr, it sounds like there's a threshold between inferior and what you'd rock up with to your West End pit gig or Van Morrison recording session etc.

Ibanez SR505. I slipped on the ice a year ago (bass was a month old 😑) and landed on my back. Had the bass on my back too. It broke a pot but there were no other problems - and it has been perfectly fine for a year. Just took it into the shop to get looked at, and obviously it worked nicely <rolls eyes>. Therefore if they don't find something wrong I'm just going to sit waiting for it all to happen again, mid-gig probably.

Fair point. And I do regret not thinking of the whole passive bypass malarkey when choosing the instrument...

Midway through rehearsal last night my bass went all fuzzy/distorted. After changing a battery, lead, and amp there was no change. I'm assuming it's an EQ issue - the bass did take a knock and broke the treble pot connections, but that didn't affect anything else and it's been fine for over a year. Can preamps just "go"? If so, can they be fixed or is replacement the only option? Thx!

Yes, gammy tendons have sparked this off. Can't lift the Trace out of the boot...

This is where I get in a tangle thinking about a Wattier replacement. For any given amp sold as (i.e. @ 4 ohms) 350W how much discernible difference would there be between the expected 175W in 8 ohm and Ampeg 250W? Or for that matter between 175 Ampeg Watts vs the expected 150W from a 300W like the Ashdown Original HD-1? (To which everyone will say "no, go for 500W" I bet, although my intention at the mo is simply to not be quieter than the combo I'm replacing 🙂.)

Oo, interesting. Yes will try that, ta.

Hmm, something's not right here. I could gig with my Trace 1x15" 150W combo, 4 ohm speaker. Loads of oomph. I removed the amp and put it in MDF box to use as separate head. For lightweight solution am putting it through a shiny new 300W 2x10 8 ohm cab. This cunning strategy hasn't worked, as at rehearsal last night it really struggled. I was told that although an 8 ohm cab is only going to get half the power the difference in volume wouldn't really be noticeable. So - given it's not a powerful amp, could it be that there's a bigger difference between 150W split between 4 or 8 ohms, compared with doing the same to a 500W amp? Or have I sh@gged the amp with my faffing about? I can't believe there's much drop in quality between an entry level 90s Trace and a 2018 300W Laney. I'm hoping it's all about the ohms, otherwise I've been stupid.

Oo ok. Is the effect of running them in series the same as in parallel? I feel that's a question answered several times elsewhere in this forum... EDIT: Ignore that question, it doesn't matter. Just finding out I can indeed run 2 cabs from my current amp is extremely helpful. Thanks!

Sorry, I did, didn't I? The one with the plug in it to stop you using it isn't connected to anything. It's just a hole...

Nope, also need to buy an amp with 2 speaker outs.

I know, annoying I can't have one.

The manual I'm looking at says: "The 715 combo produces 150Watts into its internal 4-Ohm speaker and it is not possible to add further speaker cabinets."

Damn. I briefly got my hopes up as the manual for the 715 (no following letters) said no cabs, but a generic one for the SMC range simply didn't mention it. So where does that leave me? I can plug "anything" in but it has to be 4 ohm?

Quick (hopefully) question. I have a Trace 715 SMC combo, 150W, which has 2 extension speaker sockets saying "min 4 ohms". However all the manuals I can find online say you can't use an extension cab. So can I or can't I?! Think it's from 1999 if that makes any difference...

Thanks everyone. From my investigations it seems to get closest to the B tension you need a 27-28 gauge C string, which is presumably v light indeed. Sounds like best plan is to get regular gauge (I'm guessing 30-32) and if I have to faff with truss rod so be it.

Truss rods scare me. Were I to change from low B to high C (given stock Ibz SR strings currently, which I don't know so might be difficult to er gauge hoho), is there a high C gauge whose tension is close enough to a standard B to enable a mere saddle tweak to set up properly?

Trace. I bypass the graphic, leave pre-shape off, ignore compressor, and it nails it. A smart dust cover and table it can neatly slip under might work...

@Chris_b, I note your cautionary italics re good quality cab. Anything to avoid?

I'd just like to point out BTW that's a random pic I found online and is not representative of curtains/skirting chez Ajoten.

Aaargh! Could do without all the music shops round closing down. Feel I asked the wrong question to start with, really. My current amp, a 1999 Trace 15" 150W (I think) combo is 61x61 front on, but sounds beautiful and been brilliant at unPAed gigs. I'm really nervous of changing it tbh, given criticisms/inadequacies I read of alternatives. (But the garage is being converted to a little living room etc etc etc...)

Often done gigs without PA support myself. But still, if I can get a similar sound out of a 1x10 vs 1x15 that would be handy. Just doesn't look as cool as the Minimark I've been talked out of...

The Barefaced Two10 has caught my eye too. Nice. So what application does a 300W 2x8 amp have then?

Oo, looks good. I always associate 12" speakers with guitars so never consider them. As per above comment, I'm sure no longer an issue in this day and age.

It's about storage not transport. Just wondered if technology had moved on so much that modern superior 300W of small speakers could compete with lesser quality 250W old large.