Jamie Snell

Hi all, I’ve pulled the trigger on the Digitech Drop, I will let you know how I get on with it!

Hi all, I’m considering getting a pitch shifter pedal to allow me to play certain songs either a semi tone or two semi tones down.

i’ve just tried the EHX Pitch Fork, but felt it coloured the tone too much.

I also tried The Drop by Digitech which was quite good, despite a slight drop in volume.

Someone suggested the Morpheus Drop Tuner.

What are people’s thoughts on The Drop and the Morpheus please?  I’ve got the chance to get one or the other so any comments welcome. The Drop is 9v meaning I can power it from my 9v splitter cable, although I may well get some kind of power bank if that would be better.

Cheers

Jamie

1 hour ago, bertbass said:

Available as 5v USB powered.  might be easier to power using just a phone charger or powerbank.

Thanks.I had seen those online, but I’m struggling to work out how I would plug it in/turn it on or off as the cable with USB head won’t fit through the grille.

14 hours ago, itu said:

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Inspired-LED/12V-NB-GR-01M?qs=YCa%2FAAYMW01qkTpyKP021w%3D%3D

Something like this? 12 volts.

Yes ideal, thanks. It doesn’t mention a power supply - do you have to buy this separately?

7 minutes ago, itu said:

What kind of power supply are you considering?

LEDs can be bought in stripes which you can tape to the grille. If you think the tape is too weak (especially in the long run), some extra adhesive is in order. They consume quite little, so a rechargeable battery or some small power supply could do the powering.

You want colours? Consider remote controlled RGB stripes.

Mouser etc.

Hi, don’t mind whether battery or mains powered, mains would probably be better in the long run. 

and yes colours would be good - Trace Elliott green!

any links to suitable products would be good. I can find LED strip lights on eBay, but I’m unsure how to power them as the power pack won’t fit through the grill.

Hi all, I’m just wondering if anyone has any tips or advice on how to install LED lighting behind the grille of my cabs? Ideally I’d like to be able to turn the LEDs on using an external switch.

Any pointers welcome!

19 hours ago, agedhorse said:

No, not all amp manufacturers are more guilty of this. 

Don’t accuse others of something you don’t yet understand.
 

 

Give over mate.

16 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

Honestly, you are overthinking it.  

I have ran 4 / 8 / 16 ohm cabs rated from 100 to 1200 watts (in LOADS of combinations) with 100 - 1600w amps and I've never destroyed one yet.  So long as you don't connect a cab that is lower rated in OHMS than the amps minimum load, then you just need to proceed with caution and start turning the volume up listening to what your speaker is telling you.  

I’m a bit anal! Thanks for your help.

59 minutes ago, BassmanPaul said:

I believe that several of us have told you that already!!

Just wanted to be sure I had understood correctly. Thanks for your help.

Hi all, thanks for your advice and comments so far.

Using an online Speaker Ohm Calculator it tells me that connecting both speakers in parallel at 2.67 ohms will distribute  the power 33.3% to the 8 ohm cab and 66.7% to the 4 ohm cab. Given the amp outputs 700w @ 2 ohms then this would equate to 175w to the 8 ohm cab and 350w to the 4 ohm cab.

Given the 8 ohm cab can handle 400w and the 4 ohm cab 800w I think it would be best to output to each cab from each channel as that would give me 280w to the 8 ohm cab and 450w to the 4 ohm cab. That’s 730w in total rather than 525w. Plus using this method means that if one of the amp channels went down, or one of the cabs for that matter, then it’s less hassle.

Hopefully my conclusion makes sense, but if I’ve got anything wrong do let me know.

Thanks again, Jamie

9 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

The wattage is shared BUT you need to research and appreciate that quoted figures are bragging figures, so are nominal/vague.

Thanks again and sorry I did know the wattage gets shared. And yes all amp manufacturers are guilty of promoting wattage levels which are ultimately bragging figures! 
 

Linking the cabs would give a better volume balance whereas running each cab off separate channels would require some manual volume balancing using the channel volume pots I guess.

18 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

Cans - None.

Amp - 2.6 ohms if you connect to single channel.  

Ok thanks. I think I was getting ohms and watts mixed up. If I ran the cabs off one channel then wouldn’t the amount of wattage be too high for the 8 ohm cab which is only rated at 400w?

Ignore me, the 2x10 has an output link so could send one output to that and then the output link to the 4 ohm cab. So next question is what impact would this have on the ohms and wattage?

3 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

You're clouding/confusing the matter.  IF each channel of your power amp is separate and can operate at 2 ohms then your 4 AND 8 ohm cab are within its parameters and both can run off 1 channel.  However each cab will get a bit more/less power, not the end of the world BUT why not just run 1 cab off 1 channel (ie 4 ohm on #1 8 ohm on #2)?  

Impedance always confuses me!

and yes I think my preference would be to run the 4 ohm cab off one channel and the 8 ohm cab off the other. In fact thinking about it, that’s the only way I can do it as neither cab has an output/link.

7 minutes ago, BassmanPaul said:

You are correct. The 4Ω cabinet will get 450W from one channel and the 8Ω cabinet will get 280W from the other. You could also run both from one channel for 2.66Ω  should you need to and leave the other channel for some other use.

Thanks for confirming my thoughts, but just one point - running both off one channel @ 2.66ohms wouldn’t be a good option as that is below both cabs respective minimum ohms?

Hi all

i have a Behringer power amp which outputs:

280w @ 8 ohms per channel

450w @ 4 ohms per channel

700w @ 2 ohms per channel

i have a Trace Elliott 1015H cab which features 2x10 and 1x15. It’s rated 800w @ 4 ohms.

I am considering a matching TE 2x10 extension cab which is rated 400w @ 8 ohms.

My question is: Can I send the output of channel one of my amp to the 4 ohm cab and the output of channel two to the 8 ohm cab?

And assuming this is ok, will I get the full 450w going into the 4 ohm cab and the full 280w going into the 8 ohm cab? Or will the overall impedance have changed therefore changing the wattages?

Any advice welcome! Thanks.

Does anyone have an update on what The Police are actually doing about him?

MICK IS BACK! He’s got several listings on FB marketplace, and one of them has got several comments warning buyers off which is great!

41 minutes ago, Jamie Snell said:

A friend of mine has also recommends the DBX166, but does anyone know what the difference is between the XS and XL models please?

Ignore me - I’ve just found something elsewhere online which says the only difference is the look and packaging!

A friend of mine has also recommends the DBX166, but does anyone know what the difference is between the XS and XL models please?

On 30/12/2020 at 10:19, Richard R said:

Welcome aboard! Love the back of this bass!

Thanks, it’s great isn’t it!

Thank you both - your comments give me reassurance I’m doing the right thing!

4 minutes ago, prowla said:

Did you get your refund yet?

Yes I got mine back before Xmas, although it did take several weeks and several of his usual excuses (he’s been in hospital with Covid don’t you know?!?)

Hi all, I’ve got a good deal on a Trace Elliot 1015H which features 2x10, 1x15, and an adjustable tweeter horn. It’s rated 800w @ 4 ohms and I plan on driving it with a Behringer EP1500 power amp which delivers 450w @ 4 ohms or 1400w @ 4 ohms when bridged. Preamp is a Tech 21 Sansamp RBI.

Just wondering if anyone has any experience of this cab?

Thanks.

It looks as if Mr Mason has retreated - he has nothing for sale on Marketplace as far as I can see!