JLG

I've put a set of Billy Sheehan Rotosounds on today: 43 - 65 - 80 - 110

Raised the action a touch.

Though it's heavy and loses a bit of brightness in the attack, the 110 is good.

Dropped to C#, there's a bit of rattle/flap but it's tolerable.

I'll probably continue experimenting in future, but for the moment, I'll see how it goes.

Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.

They are very much appreciated.

More Q's to come...

Cheers!

20 minutes ago, tom.android said:

Tried these myself. Too heavy on the rest of the strings!

 

I’d do 42 60 80 110 for drop C#/Dflat. Or just try adding a single 105/110 to what you’ve already got.

 

I really like the D’Addario EXL170BT for a ready made set

I've got a 105 on  and it rattles/flaps.

I have a 43 65 80 110 set being delivered soon.

If the 110 is problematic, then I'll try a 120 for the E string.

5 hours ago, Dood said:

THESEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!! Absolutely BRILLIANT!

 

https://www.daddario.com/products/guitar/bass-guitar/xl-nickel-bass/exl160bt-nickel-wound-balanced-tension-medium-50-120-long-scale/

 

120-90-67-50 

 

 

That 120 is perfect and, I found on my basses I didnt need to adjust my nut to fit the heavier gauge. (Which may just be lucky) 

What bass(es) do you use these on?

I have a Spector Euro and I'm very reluctant to adjust the nut (filing was suggested) because it's a gorgeous beast!

3 minutes ago, peteb said:

 

I used to use them back for a bit in the 80s when they first came out. The 110 was to accommodate a drop D when in concert pitch and worked well enough, but the higher strings were to light (for me at least). 

 

I currently use 105 - 50 D'addario nickel roundwounds for one bass in concert and for one tuned down to Eb. What you need as a minimum is a hex wound string and I would suggest that a 110 E string, or even a 115, is a good idea if you are regularly going to drop down to Db. Next time I change strings on the bass tuned down 1, I may well try a slightly heavier guage set of strings. 

 

Thanks.

Any brand recommendations for hex wound strings?

I've put a .105 on today and it's better than a .100 but still flaps/rattles.
Think I'll try a .110.
 

Has anyone tried the Rotosound Billy Sheehan Custom set (43-110)?

45 minutes ago, Dood said:

 

(I have noted that you're in Eb standard to begin with and drop the 4th string down to Db)

 

You'd also get Drop C out of this set too if your bass creates a good  tight string feel to begin with.

The 120 seems a bit of a jump!

I've got a 45-105 set to try out so I'll see how they feel and work from there.

5 minutes ago, asingardenof said:

As long as you don't play too hard, but that might be pushing it otherwise. Possibly worth investigating a set with a .110 lowest string, it maybe just buy just that string by itself?

 

Or just buy a 5 string and be done 😎

I had a 5-string years ago.

Tried for a long time but couldn't get on with it.

I'm happy with a 4-string.

Just now, Cosmo Valdemar said:

Totally worth it, DR are incredibly high quality and last a very long time.

Do they maintain the brightness of new strings?

2 minutes ago, Wolverinebass said:

To accommodate the wider string gauge.

Of course.

But the gauge difference is minimal.

I suppose it depends on how the nut "grooves" are at the moment.

1 minute ago, Wolverinebass said:

Yeah, because they're great and you won't have to file the nut. That's the whole point of them. Wound at higher tension so you can downtune and not get enough flop to necessitate giving the strings viagra.

File the nut?

5 minutes ago, asingardenof said:

Might be worth trying the EXL 165 set then, that's what I use and the E string handles drop D just fine for me.

I'm tuned down a semitone and the E is dropping to D flat.

Do you think that gauge would work?

6 minutes ago, Wolverinebass said:

The action on my Rick is stupidly low. You won't have a problem with the DR'S.

They're expensive. Almost £20 more than D'Addario

Thanks everyone who has commented so far.

My mistake, the strings are D’Addario XL-170 Nickel, so the set is 45, 65, 80, 100.

The tension on the E-string (.100) is 15.782kgs, so that explains the flapping.

On heavier gauges, this (obviously) increases.

• the .105 has a tension of 17.31kgs
• the .107 has a tension of 17.931kgs
• the .110 has a tension of 18.795

It appears I have some string testing to do.

2 hours ago, danbowskill said:

Would it no be a case of having to raise the 105 action slightly

I do like the low action so I'm reluctant but I will try it.

Thanks

5 hours ago, asingardenof said:

I don't think it's string gauge that's the issue. I use .105 for my E strings and haven't had any flapping with D'Addario or Newtone strings when I drop to D. How new are the strings on it and what brand are they?

The bass and the strings are brand new. I bought the instrument 1 week ago.
Strings are D’Addario XL-170 Nickel.

And, my mistake, the E-string is .100

Hey,

I've just had a Hipshot Xtender fitted on my Spector Euro.

It's tuned to Eflat and set up to drop to Dflat.

When dropped, the E-string flaps a little.

I'm using a .105 gauge E-string.

What string gauge should I use to minimise the flapping?

I'd like to keep it as light as possible.

Also, I've been told that it's not string gauge but string tension that matters.

Is there a high tension string available, maybe as close to .105 as possible?

I'm new to this stuff so any advice and/or recommendations is very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks in advance.

All sorted now.

Was the fuse.

Whoever put 2 different fuses in was obviously mistaken.

Thanks for the advice. It's very much appreciated. 

58 minutes ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

They're not different, or at least they shouldn't be. The back panel shows two values, one for 110v operation, one for 220v.

There are 2 fuses in mine: one T4AL 250v (which has blown) and one T8AL 250v

The back panel says for 230v AC input it should be T4AL 250v, and for 15v AC input it should be T8AL 250v.

I'm in the UK (just to clarify) on 230v AC so am I right in assuming it should be two T4AL 250v fuses?

If not, what should it be?

Again, thanks in advance. All this help and advice is very helpful.

3 hours ago, RichardH said:

I think you will find that the second fuse is just a spare - it doesn't connect in circuit.

Really?

So can I swap them over?

If so, why are there 2 different fuses?

47 minutes ago, BassBunny said:

If the replacement blows, then you do have an issue. Do you know what each fuse does?

I'm completely useless at the electronic side of stuff.

Hi all

I was in rehearsal for 5 hours y'day and all was well.

Took my gear home - Hartke HA3500 through a 115 Hartke cab - and switched it on this morning but there was no power.

I checked the fuses (in the compartment above the kettle lead) and of the 2 fuses, the T4AL 250v fuse has blown (the other fuse is T8AL and is fine).

Any idea what might have caused it? Is this any indication of another issue?

I have replacements on order (I couldn't find a store nearby that stocked them).

Thanks in advance.