Big Uli

I'm thinking of selling my Laney G150 head and 4x10 cab
Used and showing wear and tear but I have no idea what it is worth
I don't want to end up giving it away for peanuts so I thought I ask

I'm selling my Stagg BA20
I have replaced it with something bigger so it is surplus to requirement
I still have the original box

I will post via MyHermes for extra cost
Please inquire

I have been looking online for a Behringer DC9 and can not find one
I like the Behringer range. Cost effective and does what more expensive pedals do. Just right for my budget and skill level

So are there any other cost effective compressors out there that could be recommended?
Something simple with a couple of knobs to fiddle with.

My only complaint about my SF300 abd BOD 400 is there are too many knobs to mess around with. Took me a while to get it right for just the one bass

I have discovered that 2 of the screws do not grip properly so they do need replacing with 2 slightly oversized.
Ajob for the local hardware store. If they don't have it then I have to do some research

I check fleabay in any case

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1492446353' post='3280300']
A 'not so cheap' fix would be to retro fit a bridge with lateral movement adjustment. Hipshot 3D or similar.
[/quote]

Been thinking of modding it a bit but as you say not a cheap option
They where only £250 new in the day I think


[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1492448507' post='3280338']
Have a look at the E string side of the neck pocket to see if there is an uneven gap between the neck and the body where it sits in the pocket.

The typical indication that the neck is slightly out of line is that there will be a gap in the pocket that gets very slightly wider going away from the bridge. If so, loosen the strings. No need to remove them, just loose will do. Unscrew the neck bolts, presuming it's not a set neck and retighten with the gap uniform. A slight shift in the neck can represent a significant shift in the position of the nut at the other and and can make all the difference to where the strings align with the pick-ups. A typical Fender type problem.
[/quote]

Ever so slightly from 0.5 of a mil to just under a mil
I have a go and we will see

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1492441178' post='3280255']
You can loosen the neck (probably best to remove the strings first) and pull it upwards towards the E string. Then re-tighten the screws while holding the neck in the new position. when you put the strings back on you should see an improvement.

If this doesn't work, then you may have a slightly out of position bridge. In which case you would have to re-position it.

Of course it may not bother you. In which case just carry on as you are
[/quote]
It plays ok. better than ever before especially now i did the intonation as well.
Not bothered just wondered if I did some kind of booboo

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1492442021' post='3280261']
Please excuse me if I'm wrong; but aren't most basses made with the strings slightly off-set towards the G string side?

I, perhaps neively, thought it more likely that you will bend a string by pushing up, than you will buy pulling down. So the off-set allows you to do this. I'm often wrong. So I probably am right now.
[/quote]

That does make sense and I have been bending strings a lot playing wolf moon.
Just not on the g string. If I were to bend the G and it wasn't where it is it would go of the neck

Probably worrying over nothing

I have been googling online on how to set my basses up properly and come across this chap on youtube
I did everything but the nut adjustment as I don't have those files and i used my verniers rather that feelers adding the string thickness to the height adjustment.
Turned out quite well but found the set up a little to high so turned each saddle down by 1.5 turns and like that a lot better

Sting heights are
E -4/32 minus 1.5 turns
A- just less than 4/32 minus 1.5 turns
D- the same as A
C- 3/32 minus 1.5 turns
I'd have to check to determine the exact mm

However, and I never noticed this before my stings are sitting like this on the neck and across the pick ups

You can see what I meant with off set on the topic title

[attachment=243250:IMAG00721.jpg]

[attachment=243251:IMAG00731.jpg]

Anything I can do about that?
Both my basses have this now
They may have always had it but i never noticed before

I dont think I bother due to the alder body. I may just do a custom paint job and have my mate help me with a bit of airbrushing
Not sure yet.

Nice avatar hamfist. Your fish?

I am not too keen on the black body of my Peavey Zodiac BXP
I would like to strip it and go for a more natural wood grain finish.
My only worry is that I may go through all the work only to find a sh*te wood underneath with big bits of filler etc.

Anyone know what I can expect to find underneath the current finish?

What type of foot switch would I need for my Laney G150?
Also could I make my own?
All I know is that the foot switch operates the 2 pre shapes and the EQ on the amp

[quote name='Studio GC' timestamp='1491758292' post='3275194']
I know, my 50's P Bass (MIM) serves me just fine (purchased used for £400), but why should I let that stop me from seeing if the Ric is the holy grail? The price I paid for the Ric means I can sell it for a profit here in the UK.

I am breaking my own rules though, that I always say £600 is plenty of money to find a good gigging bass. But if the Ric blows me away I can live with the price as I'm only a two bass person (one decent and one back up).

Edit: And...you do know, I am the bassist for Carnaby Army don't you?
[/quote]

I do now
I got a mate playing bass in a band and was gonna ask him to try my stuff out live one time and now he has bought a double bass and started a rock'n'roll band with some of his other mates,
The sod LOL

[quote name='Studio GC' timestamp='1491750365' post='3275142']
I'm not speaking from experience (yet), but when you compare the new range of American Fender P and J basses, they are close to Ric pricing, so it becomes more apples and oranges when you start looking at basses over £1300

The Rockinbetter is a good bass. Good at around £300 or so. But it still doesn't have a maple body and the harness had wimpy pots and the pickups aren't close to a real Ric.
[/quote]

Crazy money
All my gear together doesn't even come close to that and it does everything I want it to do

If you get seriously into it then get gear that expensive
After all my first airgun was cheap Chinese made rifle
Bought 1200 and sold on quid target guns since then

Yes I know. I am officially stupid

I would love a ric just for the sake of having one but a knock off fake is the only thing I could ever afford
What i dont get is why rics are so expensive when there are ppl out there with Chickenbackers, Chinesebackers and Rockingbetters who say they can not fault their instrument?
I appreciate there is some better build quality but does that justify the price?

Yes. My overdrive is pretty much useless in the loop. My fuzz should ce today so hopefully that will work well. I would refer fuzz and BOD on separate loops as i use different basses for each

I got it working now
I have been testing sounds and volumes with my 2 basses and used a kill switch rather than turning the amp on and off.
I think that may be the cause of my issues.
Every now and then after switching over no sound comes out for a while.
Maybe kill switch is in the wrong place?

Yes I did try both ways
There seems to be some issue with the head. Not sure if it is something that can be fixed easy or not
I have someone look at it

How do I use the FX Loop on my Laney G150?
I put the [b]RETURN[/b] from the head into the [b]IN[/b] of the first pedal and the [b]OUT[/b] of the last pedal into the [b]SEND[/b] of the Head and nothing happened. Just silence
Just in case i did it wrong I tried it the other way round but still nothing just silence
As soon as one lead is unplugged from the head side of the FX loop I can hear my bass again

So what am i doing wrong?

Double topic
My apologies
Please delete

I have quite a few behringer bits myself
All pedals
Either Behringer made very little money or the rest make too much

[quote name='stu_g' timestamp='1491076145' post='3270379']
I used to have g150 perfectly good amp and those cabs arent bad either I had 15" version.
nice purchase.
[/quote]

Sounds really good.
Very pleased with it


[quote name='Tonteee' timestamp='1491078134' post='3270395']
I saw that on eBay and nearly bid on it myself.

I thought the G series was for guitar, but from the looks of it the functons are almost identical to the DP series.

I dearly miss my DP300. Old fashioned heft, to coin a phrase. As in I had to heave to lift it...
[/quote]

I'm glad you didn't

Now I got a decent Head and Cab I am wondering in what order to arrange my effects.
I have a kill switch, overdrive, Weeping demon at home right now and I got a fuzz and noise gate on the way for early next week

I was thinking of Kill switch first. I can then change between my 2 basses
Fuzz 2nd then the weeping demon 3rd
4th the overdrive and finally the noise gate in 5th position

Well, I plead guilty as charged
Picked up a Laney amp and cab for peanuts on ebay this weekend

Some may say there are better amps than the G150 but for my purposes it is more than enough to begin with



Now I just need to set up my effects pedals and the fun can begin

Top man
Thanks mate

Be here in a few days

I have a Behringer Overdrive pedal and a I banez Weeping Demon
I want to add a fuzz pedal of some sort to my effects at some point and I am wondering if there is a way to run all 3 or the same power adaptor ones modifications to connect 3 devices have been made
How powerful would such a 9 volt adaptor need to be
Do I looks for amps?

I am looking at a Laney pro Bass 150 watt.
Any views on this head?

If I buy it I will make my own cabinet so could use some advise on speakers too
Not sure if i wanna go 10,12 or 15 inch
Size is no issue as I have plenty material to build 2 cabs