Adethefade

Yeah, and it’s a bit sparkly under lights too.

I have too many Stingrays! This bass plays really well, with a low action, and it sounds like Stingray should. It’s date of birth is 13th May 2010 and it was originally shipped to Strings & Things. There are a couple of marks which I’ve tried to show in the pics, but nothing to worry about. I have no case for this unfortunately but it will be shipped in a padded bag, in a decent guitar box. Weight is 4.45Kg, 9.81 Pounds.

Any questions, just ask.

I’m thinning the herd so this preamp system has become redundant. I’ve had it for a few years but it’s not been used that much. It converts the old standard two-band EQ Stingray system to three-band (with swept mid). I have these on two other instruments and they sound fantastic. Collect in person if you’re local (I get around a but too) but otherwise insured postage will be at cost. Any questions just ask.

I have a couple with maple necks. Lovely to look at, lovely to play, and there’s something special about how they sound too.

I agree that many players - especially guitarists - don’t grasp the distortion/compression relationship. I can’t count the number of times I’ve sat & watched a guy widdling like his life depended on it, yet all anyone can hear is wasps’ nest! It’s even more important for bass, where note attack & definition is important. Great advice to work backwards

I have the little Dug pedal too and I really like it, but keep returning to the GL. I should probably put some effort in since it fits in your pocket.

That's certainly not been my experience with the rack mount GED-2112. By far and away the best preamp I've ever used. It happily goes from clean to filthy and everything in between. Personally I favour just north of clean - a bit of drive as you've mentioned. I use Stingrays mainly but other instruments, including my Geddy Jazz, also work really well with it. I use it mainly with IEMs and no backline, but a decent bi-amped backline setup also works well. Maybe the pedals are of a different build.

My two-pennorth.

I got one of these a few weeks back. Firstly I racked it up and tried it through a good 2-channel power amp and and two Aguilar 12” cabs. I don’t use backline unless a dep  job comes in, it’s usually IEMs and direct to the console, but I was interested to hear it through an amp setup. I then set up my usual gigging configuration with IEMs and tried it like that. In both situations it absolutely blew me away. I’ve now gigged it a few times - It’s hands down the best preamp I’ve used. Our sound guy said it sounds huge. I use Stingrays and it seasons the sound without changing it; I just get more warmth, more dynamic, more sustain...just great.

I plugged up my ‘70s Jazz, brought up the drive control and it was instant ‘Moving Pictures’, a sound I’ve been after all my life. I’d recommend the GED 2112 to anyone - it’s not just a ‘Geddy Lee’ sound machine, it’s a great versatile preamp.

I use the two-channel setup because it’s no real hardship for me, but if that’s a problem there’s an internal jumper that you can move which sends both channels down both outputs. It’s not a hack, just an option. Not sure why it’s not in the user guide.

i hope that’s of some use to you guys.

Ade

Price drop to £300 before the dreaded Bay of E.

This amp has been gigged only a few times as I mostly work with IEMs and no back line. It's in excellent condition and in full working order. I'm selling it because I now have too much stuff floating around that I don't use. I'm including the rack kit which was an additional purchase costing £40. It comes with the user guide, the foot switch (unused), and the original rubber feet which I removed for rack mounting. I'm sure everyone knows the score with these amps but if you have any questions, please ask. Not interested in trades thanks. I will happily post at the buyer's expense. 

I bought this Tech 21 Bass Driver DI a couple of years back, tried it at home but never used it. A home clear out means I now have to move on anything that isn't earning its keep. It's as it was when it was new, complete with all original packaging, and not a mark that I can see. 

I imagine we all know what these units can do buy here's a link just in case...

http://www.tech21nyc.com/archive/bassdriver-v1-di/

I can ship at the buyers expense. Any questions, please don't hesitate.

Where are you based, and what's the situation with shipping?

Another thumbs up for a Status neck on a 'ray...it becomes a different animal.

Adding cabs is usually going to produce improved results. When amplifying low frequencies you need as much amplifier power as you can possibly achieve; once a bass sound is loud and clean, you're off to a flying start. As well as increasing amplifier power by reducing the impedance presented to the amp, adding another cab introduces another sound source which adds SPL, it'll be a different sound because it's probably a different cab, and when speaker enclosures are coupled (stacked or side-by-side) they tend to enhance each other's performance. 

In short, massive power and loads of cabs!

As mentioned above, daisy-chaining passive speaker cabs is actually connecting them in parallel, which is important to know. I'd say the quickest way to achieve way better performance for the same, or smaller, footprint would be to get a good set of active cabs for FOH use and run your monitors from the existing power amp.

If it's the 'barrel' type jack unit used on lots of active basses then they're all a bit dodgy in my experience; even the expensive ones They have a limited lifespan before they begin to crackle or cut out. As explained below, the TRS (so-called stereo) jack arrangement with three connectors is there to facilitate the battery connection as well as the output signal. I'd get a few spares and keep them handy.

Changing the neck did indeed make a difference...and it was no shrinking violet before! The Status neck turned it into a something resembling a piano with an aggression problem!

Just to say that I put a Status neck on my black Stingray HSS a while back; the.neck cost around £400.  During the first sound check I hit the low E,  and seriously, I looked around to see who had made that ridiculous noise. A Stingray with a Status neck is an absolute animal, so £900 is a steal.

Hi. Where are you based, and what is the weight of the bass please? Ade

Sorry - a list of questions;

What's the weight?

How's the action?

What year is it?

Any dings?

Cheers

Ade

What can you tell me about the natural Stngray please? I mean age, weight, string height, condition & all that.cheers, Ade

Hi Adam, The residue is black and oily. Just to be clear, this is almost certainly to do with me handling building tools & substances at the moment, I've never had the issue before and I've been using NYXLs for years.

Thanks guys. To answer the questions, they're not old strings and no, I've never had this before. I've been working on a building project at home for a few months so I'm handling all sorts of tools & substances that I don't normally handle...perhaps that's it. I'll experiment a bit and try to diagnose it.

I love D'Addario NYXLs and have used them for years, but in the last couple of days I've noticed that my fingers look like I've been changing a tyre after playing bass; black graphite-like residue on both sets of playing fingers. I know oxidisation can do this but I've never noticed it before; it seems to be blackening my maple necks too. It's happened on a few different basses and since I only use NYXLs, it's the same strings always. Anyone experienced this? Do I need to change my string choice?

I own six Stingrays; I don't play any other basses. As has been stated above this model is the one I always go for because it looks, sounds, and plays best. GLWTS.