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stevemaiden

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Posts posted by stevemaiden

  1. I've found foam packing an excellent damping for cabs - my son's work has lots of surplus packing foam from computer components boxes & some come in useful sizes. I attach it with spray adhesive (£4.99 @ B&Q) & find the black "egg box" shape particularly effective (installed in TE 4x10 & Roland bass combo).

    HNY!

  2. Hi V4, the I'm running at 9 on input gain to get the amber light to flicker - even when when slapping! Finger playing barely gets the amber to light! - this is without graphic, just the pre-shape set to classic Trace (setting 1). The amp sounds good tho, a good purchase for £230.

  3. Hi & thanks for the replies. Subthumper, I see after V4's comment that I have no need of the switches!! It seems in my haste to clean & "sort" the amp I have mis-diagnosed - the graphic & pre-shape are indeed "momentary" switches with LED's & do not require the metal prong thingy to function! After re-stripping the amp & swapping back the metal prong thingies & testing the amp - it works fine!!

    The input level does seem low tho' - & this is with 2 passive basses & probably may be the LED's as the amp does sound great!

  4. Hi, there's 2 switches us due to lack of the metal prong thingy - the prong just clicks into a hole to keep the switch body in when pressed - clicks out when pressed again - cycling the switch on & off. I've visually checked the rest of the amp & blown off all the accumulated dust internally, which wasn't to bad. The amp seems to date from 1990/91 going by an inspection signature - it actually sounds great - I'm just concerned the input gain level being so low may point to a fault?

  5. [attachment=178844:TE switch.jpg]Hi, I'd appreciate any help pointing me at a UK supplier for this switch unit used in my recently acquired (yesterday) AH400smx.
    Model #: 73-SWT-F2UEE



    I found that the pre-shape & the graphic eq switches didn't click in - upon examination of the switches I discovered the tiny U shaped metal "prongs" - see arrow in pic - were missing from the offending switches. As a quick solution I've pulled out the prongs from the DI earth switch & the passive active input switches & put them in the switches I want to work - I use passive bass & don't envisage using DI earth at any point in the near future. If I can source a couple of replacement switches I can simply swap out the prongs to save de-soldering & re-soldering new units & have a fully functioning set of switch units!

    As a secondary question the input from both my passive basses (Fender Jazz V's) struggle to make the input gain light even the green LED - they are OK on my AH 250, so it seems to point to the preamp in the AH400. Does this point to a problem with the AH400 preamp??

  6. Great thread idea - 3 links that don't work tho' are:

    http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/basses.php/

    [url="http://www.bassguitarpartsdirect.co.uk/"]http://www.bassguita...tsdirect.co.uk/[/url]
    [color=#555555][font=Helvetica]
    [u][url="http://www.rane.com/pdf/ranenotes/Sound%20System%20Interconnection.pdf"]http://www.rane.com/pdf/ranenotes/Sound%20...rconnection.pdf[/url][/u][/font][/color]

    • Like 1
  7. Hi Qlank, the nut end is a thick alloy plate fashioned from a scrap tripod head plate, with holes in it for the string to pass through. The tail-end of the strings wind onto the bridge end (after some trimming) - not as sophisticated as the Steinberger tuning system, but it does work & it stays in tune!

    I've seen the Thoman bridges, but they don't do a 5 string & the 4 string are a bit pricey at £130.00. China will knock out something eventually for the £50.00 mark.

  8. Hi, does anyone know where I can get a reasonably priced headless bass bridge & nut? - i.e. around the £50 squid mark - I'm thinking China - there's some 4 string ones available, but I can't find a five bridge.

    I've seen the German & American stuff - the American isn't cheap (£200.00+) & then the additional duty will push the cost up further! I have a doner 5 string bass ready to hack up - £45 off fleaBay - it's nice, but would be better headless :-)

    Here's a four string I did a couple of months ago - the bridge was ultra cheap on fleaBay - £13.00! The bass balances really well now! btw anyone know what make the bridge is? it's not as sophisticated as the Steinberger system.
    Before, after & during shots:

    [attachment=175068:IMG_2807.jpg]

    [attachment=175069:IMG_2847.jpg]

    [attachment=175070:IMG_2810.jpg]

    [attachment=175071:IMG_2811.jpg]

    [attachment=175072:IMG_2845.jpg]

    [attachment=175073:IMG_2851.jpg]

    [attachment=175074:IMG_2829.jpg]

    [attachment=175075:IMG_2827.jpg]

    [attachment=175076:IMG_2834.jpg]

  9. The Chinese built Squire 5 string J bass I recently acquired is every bit as goos as the 1979 P bass I had in the 80's, if not better! I'm currently considering a Chinese "Fender" Jazz 5 modern player.

    The Chinese bass was spot on for me out of the box, I remember having to shim the neck on the 79 P bass to get a lower action.

  10. Hello Basschat!

    I've started playing again after a long while (20years) & hope to get up to speed particularly regarding modern amplification via reviews/recommendations.

    Rehearsing with a group playing Space-rock/dub Reggae :-)

    Currently playing 5 string Fender Jazz - Nice!

    Played headless Westone in the early 90's & Fender P in the 80's.

    Used Orange amp head in the 80's & Trace AH250 in the 90's.

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