geddeeee

The Bass Butler may sound spongy because the Amp Output from the BB is Line level.

This is a lot louder than normal instriment level. This will drive the amp input a lot harder making it sound compressed and 'spongy'.

Should sound fine through FX Return or power amp in.

I paired 2 Orange OBC112 with my Terror Bass head.

Very lightweight and portable stack. Looks small but is an absolute beast.

Loads of low end punch and definition. Impressive stuff

Bear in mind that if you use a preamp into the FX return on the Bass Terror Mk2, the amp will be full volume as all controls are bypassed.

All volume control is via the preamp. Make sure the volume is low on the preamp before switching the amp on, otherwise you will blow your eardrums out!!! LOL...

I love my 4003 and also hate it at the same time.

 Some nights the tone is fantastic. Other times, I have to wrestle with it.

After not having it for 6 weeks as it was in for a truss rod replacement, I vowed never to be without it.

Tried loads of other basses in that time, Precision, Jazz etc, but none of them had the heft of the Ricky.

My bandmates commented, "Just not the same without the Rick"...

You're welcome!!! 😂

The OP obviously doesn't like Rickenbackers.

But he also said the Hofner is a great bass. Yeah, those Hofner pickups with about 100 windings sure sound great.... But, it has a certain sound and tone that can't easily be replicated (except for a Rickenbacker neck pickup)...

Go figure!!!

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

I know how to set up pedals and gain levels etc. After 43 years of playing I should know what I'm doing 😉

When I purchased the DI-2112, I also got an 18v adaptor because that is what is recommended by Tech21.

Tech 21 make great products. No doubt about that. They have been the 'industry standard' for years.

Unfortunately their 'drive' sections just don't do it for me.

My favourite bass player is Geddy. Since he started using the Sansamp, I cannot stand his tone. Something about it seems artificial and fizzy.

That's just my opinion. I'm just one in a sea of a million bass players who are happy with the tone they get from Sansamp products.

Just an observation, but I will look elsewhere for my 'drive' sounds.

Cheers 😁

I have the YYZ and DI-2112 pedals. I prefer the YYZ.

But both sound like crap to me with their awful drive emulation....

I have tried nearly every Tech21 bass pedals and rack units and to me they are let down by that crappy overdrive.

Played loads of valve amps in my day and NONE sound like what Tech21 are trying to say is 'tube overdrive'.

The problem for me is getting a slight overdrive which is truly dynamic to the way you play. Every time I have a heard a Tech21 unit it only seems to do cranked overdrive. More subtle settings show up the deficiencies of said drive.

Loads of people can make it work for them, but in the end trying to get a decent tone in a band mix situation is too annoying.

Best dynamic valve drive pedal I have used is the Darkglass Vintage Microtubes. Feels just like a real valve amp....

On 01/08/2019 at 11:45, Friskydingo said:

I bought the orange kongpressor and after a little play last night it's a good pedal. Lots of options to dial in. 

There's an led which is blue when activated but sometimes turns a pink/red usually when the compressor/volume dial is on full

Does this mean its being pushed too much? Clipping? I can't find out online

The blue LED will turn red/pink to show how much compression is being applied. If it is constantly red, it means a lot of compression  is being applied. I usually just make sure that the red LED is showing on the hardest notes being played to even everything out. As it is an optical compressor, it doesn't really 'clip'.

Just use your ears and you should be fine....

Standard behaviour on RICs..

Turn the volume down then switch to the turned down pickup. Signal is still there, but quieter. Gets lost with the other pickup volume....

Dire prognostications??? Now that's a mouthful...

Ask any experienced luthier about lemon oil on fretboards.... Be prepared for a barrage of expletives!!!!

No lemon oil on unsealed finishes... it dries out the wood which is BAD!!! It's a fact!! I wouldn't use lemon oil on a musical instrument, ever. It is just too harsh. Save it for furniture...

Same goes for Pledge or any other furniture polish. After a while there is build up from these products, which needs to be cleaned off.

I know a lot of fingerboard cleaners use lemon oil, but I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole. After 35 years of playing and setting up basses, these are some of the tricks you learn.

Lemon oil dries out wood, period. If you care about your bass, NEVER use it. It's just a gimmick...

In the end, it's up to each individual what they use. Just trying to help.....

No, no to lemon oil!!! It will dry out your fingerboard. It's OK on sealed finishes.

As the rosewood is open grained, use linseed oil.

8-9 drops on the fingerboard. Don't let it sit, you're not marinating a steak!!! Then work the drops into the fingerboard and wipe off with a paper towel straight away. This will moisturise and seal the wood. It will also keep any crap out. (sweat, dirt etc).

Only do this maybe twice a year at most.

If you use lemon oil on any open grained fretboards it will eventually bow the neck. Lemon oil evaporates and will really dry out your fretboard. Use it and you will end up with serious problems.

I've got the 550 touring combo with the 15 inch speaker.

Handles volume no problem. You would need an extension cab to get the full 600 watts.

Opening a gate means sound comes through. When it closes, sound is stopped....

[quote name='Mofo46' timestamp='1357286897' post='1920275']
So gave it a go from the fender instructions and apart from not having any shims to measure the truss rod adjustment and a slight intonation problem on one string (mainly due to my tuner going crazy) the action is so much better and much more comfortable to play. I'm going to go through the youtube instructions today and fine tune but glad I have it a go and saved some £££.
Cheers for the advice everyone. I'm now ready for a 3 hour gig we have coming up in a couple of weeks!
[/quote]

Excellent news....

It's fairly easy to learn to do a basic setup. Plus it saves you money.
Some 'shops' charge an arm and a leg and do a pretty half-assed job.

Keep rocking!!!!

Hi All

I have a Hipshot Rickenbacker Bass bridge for sale.

It is the original brass one, which is chromed. Comes with different length saddle screws, so you can dial in the perfect intonation.

These are about £150 brand new. Will let it go for £100. Let me know if interested....

Cheers

Mark

Spot on...

Definitely a gimmick. As long as the amp doesn't sound distorted. Looks nice though!!!

The rotary dial displays the ouput watts, not input gain....

£70 seems a bit high. As Grangur said, try out the Fender instructions.

Neck may have too much of a forward bow, hence the high action. Might need a 'shim' in the neck pocket. Once you have learned to set it up properly, it's easy after that....

Good luck!!

No worries, man!!

Absolute Music is great. Nevada Music in Portsmouth is superb too. I could spend hours in there looking at all the lovely gear...

I think you'll find the A is the 2nd string. E to G - 1 to 4...

I own a Rickenbacker 4003, which are notoriously prone to the finish dissolving if the wrong rubber or foam is used.

I wouldn't own anything but a Hercules. They don't react with any finish. The king of guitar/bass stands!!!!

There are some great valve manufacturers in the East. Don't listen to the nay sayers!!! If you pay the money, you will get great parts.
Skimp on the price and you will get crap!!!

There are still NOS Philips and JAN (U.S. valves) available, but you would have to pay for the higher quality.

JJ Gold 12AX7 are great for the preamp section.

I would use the Svetlana 6550. These are what Marshall supply from the factory in the VBA 400. The 2001 was the forerunner of the VBA, so I would go with them.

I wouldn't bother with any of the 'cryo' valves either. Absolute rubbish!!! As for Watford Valves.... Our guitarist purchased a set from them for his Marshall head. The power valves were faulty and the amp nearly caught fire at a gig. He paid out nearly £300 trying to get the valves, and then get them biased. In the end he took it directly to Marshall. They fixed it, biased it etc. It sounds like it just left the factory. Only cost £170 including parts. Bargain!!!

My advice would be to send it directly to Marshall for a full service. They know what they're doing....