jasetbass

15 hours ago, agedhorse said:

My first pointer is that's not how to set bias, and is one of the more bizarre ways that I have heard over my career actually. 

 

There are different ways, but they all ultimately result in the current through one output tube times the voltage on the plate equal to about 70% of the tube's specified maximum plate dissipation (in watts).  This will vary by tube family, 6L6 is different than EL34, is different from 6550 and KT88.

 

If you don't understand this, or don't have the necessary equipment to do it safely, find a qualified service tech to do it for you. There are different ways to measure the current through the tube (directly and indirectly, with and without screen current contribution).

Thanks for getting back to me. That kind of confirms what I was thinking tbh. I couldn’t square the schematic instructions with what Leszek said or with what I’d read on the web. 
 

I’ll get a bias probe, and see how I get on.

 

Cheers,

 

Jase

 

Hi All,

 

Handbox WB100 owner here, hoping for a bit of advice from you lovely Basschatters.

I finally had the need to replace the output valves in my amp (after over 5 years of faithful service - and I got a UK demo model off wateroftyne - hope you’re well, Michael!), so got myself a nice shiny matched set of JJ 6L6GCs. I’ve put them in and I know I have to re-bias the amp, but that’s about as far as my knowledge goes (other than to be very, very careful!).
 

I found the attached on the Handbox website, which says that I should be reading -32v at the test points. Sounded easy, but first off, was a little surprised that, when I opened up the amp (for the first time since I got it), my bias pot was set fully clockwise.

 

I then noticed that this voltage varied significantly depending on whether the amp was in standby or not. Contacted Leszek who said: by

 

Each quartet of tubes from the same company, purchased on the same day, requires individual tuning.

This voltage(32V) is only approximate. BIAS is set only intuitively.

The voltage is observed on a multimeter and the behavior of the anodes in the power tubes is observed.

The optimal operating point is when the anodes do not yet glow red, but any increase in voltage(BIAS), even the slightest, will cause them to glow.
I don't know any other effective method.

 

So I tried adjusting the bias and noticed that, maybe counter-intuitively, that reduction in voltage seemed to cause the valves to run hotter.
 

However I wasn’t really comfortable with what the ‘right’ setting was. So I did a bit of googling and have found myself drowning in information! 
 

Please can someone offer a few pointers?

 

Many thanks in advance,

 

Jase

PM’d

On 28/06/2019 at 11:42, bigjohn said:

Is there still a demo one knocking around in the UK?

I'd love to give one of these a try... 

You’re welcome to give mine a blast if you’re ever anywhere near Halifax (not exactly close to Nottingham but closer than Bristol!)

On 27/09/2018 at 20:43, Daz39 said:

Oof. I live in Halifax too...

Offer’s there if you want, buddy...

31 minutes ago, warwickhunt said:

I've gigged this twice and I am genuinely gutted that you own it... and I don't!    

Despite gigging with an amp x6 the power of the Handbox, I never had a problem with volume or authority of tone.  

Enjoy the amp and if you decide it isn't for you... you know where I am.    

Ha ha, sorry, not sorry 😉

12 minutes ago, JapanAxe said:

Dave, I would love the opportunity to plug this into my Super Twin at the Bash. We should probably alert the authorities first though...

I’d suggest NOT doing this unless you have the cash to get one...because you WILL want one! 

It’s a couple of hours since my little practice, and I’m still smiling!

Oh, and I meant to say, if anyone wants to have a dabble with it, I’m in Halifax, just drop me a message.

8 hours ago, wateroftyne said:

A sad occasion this weekend, as the trial WB-100 was collected by its first proper owner (another BC'er, I'm happy to say).

Funds are tight for me at the mo, otherwise I would have bought it seconds after gigging it for the first time.

I hope to correct that soon, though - until then, back to the also-marvellous R-400.

 

And I’m very happy to say that I’m the very happy new owner. I’ve just given it a blast in the practice room, and it is A-MAZ-ING! It grinds my Genz Benz ShuttleMax 12.2 into the dust. It just has an authority that that the GB cannot get close to. It sounds so alive and the GB just sounds sterile in comparison. And it is loud, I mean really loud, and when I tried to get the same volume and depth out of the GB, it caused the output to clip. The EQ is simple but very usable. The build quality is absolutely impeccable. It looks fantastic, it’s compact, and whilst it isn’t light, it’s certainly very manageable. If this amp wasn’t actually mine, and I’d just borrowed it for the night, I’d be ordering one tomorrow. It might sound ridiculous to say that an amp that probably costs the best part of a grand is bargain, but it’s hand-made, hand-wired by someone who really knows what he’s doing. I cannot speak highly enough of this amp. Anyway, I’ve got a gig on Saturday, and maybe I should’ve waited until after that before I posted this but I’m just gushing! Thanks again Michael for meeting up, really appreciated, and I can so understand why you were sad to see it go. Anyway, here’s a pic:

Hi All, 

£429 for the PF-50T sounds like a veritable bargain! I think it looks and sounds great, if the demos I’ve seen are anything to go by. Don’t suppose anyone has tried this in a pub-gig environment with no FOH?

I’m wondering whether this through a pair of Barefaced Super Compacts might just be a go-er. 

Cheers,

Jase

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1478956112' post='3172938']


Toroidal transformers spread the coil around a donut rather than all wrapped around in the same direction. I guess this results in less noise as the as each wrap of the coil is facing another going the other way so that their electromagnetic fields cancel each other out. But if you put a pedal on top with a coil in it like an old wah pedal, it would still pick up significant noise from a toroidal transformer, just nowhere near as bad as a regular one.

Switching supplies don't generate the same kind of electromagnetic disturbance. But if they are poorly designed and not filtered properly they can be noisy, such as generic cheap ones designed for general use like charging your phone rather than for audio applications. I would expect anything made by the likes of Strymon or OneSpot to be well designed though. I was all set to buy a OneSpot CS-7 until I realised it would not fit under my Pedaltrain Metro.
[/quote]

Thanks for this (and the other replies), so the chameleon's definitely out. Think the ToneTrunk's the board, cos it's bigger and angled. Might have gone for the cs7 but on reflection, I don't think it'll even fit under the tonetrunk so it's looking like the DC5.

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1478956112' post='3172938']


Toroidal transformers spread the coil around a donut rather than all wrapped around in the same direction. I guess this results in less noise as the as each wrap of the coil is facing another going the other way so that their electromagnetic fields cancel each other out. But if you put a pedal on top with a coil in it like an old wah pedal, it would still pick up significant noise from a toroidal transformer, just nowhere near as bad as a regular one.

Switching supplies don't generate the same kind of electromagnetic disturbance. But if they are poorly designed and not filtered properly they can be noisy, such as generic cheap ones designed for general use like charging your phone rather than for audio applications. I would expect anything made by the likes of Strymon or OneSpot to be well designed though. I was all set to buy a OneSpot CS-7 until I realised it would not fit under my Pedaltrain Metro.
[/quote]

Thanks for this (and the other replies), so the chameleon's definitely out. Think the ToneTrunk's the board, cos it's bigger and angled. Might have gone for the cs7 but on reflection, I don't think it'll even fit under the tonetrunk so it's looking like the DC5.

[quote name='Wiggybass' timestamp='1478953792' post='3172913']
After years of faffing about with PSUs for pedal boards I discovered this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Diago-Micropower9-PS10-universal-supply/dp/B006GOX01A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478953680&sr=8-1&keywords=diago+power

I now have a few for various things and they're great - noise-free, cheap as chips, light and reasonably robust. They also provide up to 1000mA at 9v which is enough to drive most pedalboards. Recommended.
[/quote]

Cheers for the suggestion but I'm after isolated outputs with different voltage options...

[quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1478857531' post='3172130']
I've got the Metro 20 board (same underside clearance as the nano) and the Coiks DC-5. Works great for me (for now! ).

Worth adding that some folks have successfully modified these boards to have taller feet so you get a bit more clearance underneath. See here, it's a older pedaltrain 'mini' in this case but the principal is the same.: -

http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/pedaltrain-mod-part-1-adjustable-feet.1240974/

http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/pedaltrain-mini-mod-part-2-mounting-a-power-supply-diy.1249528/
[/quote]

Thanks for that, so another DC5 vote!

Anything that involves me and power tools will inevitably end in disaster, so I don't think I'll be going down that road lol!

[quote name='0175westwood29' timestamp='1478809436' post='3171876']
the strymon Ojai will fit under and has a lot of power ontap for such an tiny little thing!

andy
[/quote]

Thanks Andy, gives me an alternative to the DC5 if I go Nano/digital switching...

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1478801839' post='3171801']
The DC5 is the only one that will fit under a Pedaltrain Nano, I recommend it (Hotrox sell them).

I tested plenty of pedals on top of the power supply, into a headphone amp with the treble whacked up to check for noise introduced by pedals being too near the power supply. There was a barely detectable hum introduced with some pedals when placed directly over the supply. Certainly not an issue, even when recording. The Diamond compressor picked up loads of noise when it was anywhere on the board though, even in bypass, yet was fine when placed directly on the floor!
[/quote]

Appreciate the reply. Yeah, realise I'm limited with the Nano. That's why I'm trying to get advice on both board and supply, 'cos if consensus was that the ToneTrunk was rubbish, then that pretty much makes my mind up.
The Diamond's optical isn't it? Do you think it's an optical thing or specific to the Diamond? More to the point, did you leave the Diamond off your board, or replace it with a different compressor that didn't have the same problem?
Cheers

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1478797953' post='3171746']
Toroidal is the same as 'transformer' - it's a doughnut shaped one is all.
Digital switched power supplies are smaller and lighter and work with many pedals quite well, but not all of them.
[/quote]

Cheers, but aren't toroidal transformers supposed to have less noise by design? And are they better than digital switched supplies? Any ideas which pedals don't work so well with switching supplies? I'm confused as to whether the type should be a significant factor, or is it just different ways to crack a nut? Manufacturer's blurb says their way is best, but is it?!

Bought a pedal off Phil. Agreed a price, I paid, he sent it pdq, it arrived the next day nicely packed, as described, with great comms throughout. Good work, fella.

Hi All,

I’m after a bit of help please...

After years of having no effects whatsoever, I stupidly bought a pedal and now I'm on that slippery slope that means I now need a pedal board!

So, I’m after a single rail board and after a big of digging, I’ve shortlisted the Pedaltrain Nano+ and the T-Rex ToneTrunk Minor. I’ve read the specs so know about the size and weight differences etc., so I’m after a bit of owner’s knowledge. Anyone got any opinions on these boards, in particular whether the soft cases are any good?

I’m also after a power supply to fit underneath the board, and I’ve shortlisted the Cioks DC5, the T-Rex Chameleon, and the Truetone CS7. Again, I’ve read the specs and get all the stuff about volts, amps, isolated outputs etc, but I don’t understand the difference in the transformer types. The DC5 is toroidal, the Chameleon is transformer, and the CS7 is digital switching; does this make a difference? I’m mindful that on such a small board, if a pedal is susceptible to mains hum, then there isn’t much scope to move it away from the power supply.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Jase

Bought a tuner off Dave. Agreed a price, I paid, he sent it same day, it arrived the next day nicely packed, as described, with great comms throughout. Good work, fella.

I've done a few deals on here now.

You know what to do...

Bought a pair of cabs off Stephen. Quick comms, agreed a deal, went down to pick 'em up that night. They were exactly as described, and I didn't feel rushed in checking 'em out. Really smooth transaction, and a sound guy. Thanks again Stephen.

Is this still available?

Barkin/Skinnyman,

Sorry it's taken me a bit to get back in touch, but I couldn't get basschat to work! First Librarian then Basschat...was starting to get a complex!

Anyway, thanks for your help and advice, must've been a faulty lead, got an E-MU Xmidi 1x1, and it worked like a dream, no messin'...ok, it was £24 but it's worth it, I'm gonna make some wicked patches!!!

Thanks again.

Jase

[quote name='barkin' timestamp='1361983536' post='1994040']
Well, working on the basis that a cheap lead isn't very cheap if it doesn't work, I splashed out and bought one for just under a tenner today!

It's not branded, but has "model A03FK" printed on it. A quick Google suggests that it's probably the same as ones sold under the brand names Prosound & Mistar...and loads more I would think.

Worked straight off, no timeout errors etc (WinXP) so I'm a happy bunny.

Next to try - running the Librarian software under Wine...
[/quote]

Hey Barkin, sounds like you got the generic kind of lead that I got. Could I ask if you did anything different to what I described above? Did Windows automatically install the drivers? Did you need to do anything with the B9 unit itself (other than switching it on!)?

It just that, generally, most people seem to be having problems with these leads running on Windows 7 rather than XP, so I'm entertaining the idea that it might not be the lead that's the problem...

Cheers,

Jase