morgano

The Gaston Brohan Oak Rosin or Arnold Gregorian Oak Rosin is/was the best I have tried.

Unfortunately, Gregorian Strings appear to have gone out of business a while back. I'd love to find something else as good.

If you don't need the strings really urgently try bassstringsonline (in the States). Have used them before, and they have good range of strings.

I'm not sure how the prices compare now with the weak pound, but they were competitive a while back, even with shipping.

I couldn't establish any communication with them; either by phone or email.

In the end I went to my bank who put a chargeback on the order and refunded me.

I don't know what is going on with Stringbusters but I won't be ordering from them until I know that 'normal service is resumed'. It's a shame really, as I preferred using them as their prices were often better than Strings Direct.

Yes, the newer lead-free (eco-friendly) solder melts at a higher temperature. It also doesn't have as nice a shiny finish when it solidifies.

It might be that even though the scale lengths are similar, due to differences in how the neck mounts in the neck pocket, the 12th fret ends up in a different position with the new neck once it is mounted on the bass. When the necks are mounted in the body how different is the measurement between the 12th fret and the G saddle?

You would need to move the bridge away from the nut to compensate, so probably a lot of work, and may not work aesthetically.

It sounds like the new neck has a different scale length. You can check by measuring from the nut to the 12th fret on both necks. The measurement should be as close as possible. The bridge saddle adjustment may allow for some leeway if there is a difference, but not if it is more than a few mm's.

Have Stringbusters gone bust? Their Website is still up, but I haven't received the strings I ordered in 24th July 2017. They are still marked as 'Awaiting dispatch'.

I've tried phoning several times, but there's no reply.

Bump!

Bump - now £75.

Thomann 3U Rack bag.

Lightweight with zips both ends. Padded carry handle.

Has been modified with:
* Mains input (switched) to internal mains distribution unit with 4 outlets
* Twin speakon sockets wired to speakon connectors.
* 4 x ventilation grilles on the sides

Just under 15" rack depth, with rack rails on front only.

In good condition although padded handle is a bit worn.

Collection from Trowbridge, Wiltshire or can post by Hermes at cost.

Price drop £550

Yes, flatwound strings will definitely help to reduce finger noise. You could also try reducing the top end response of your amp by reducing treble or turning off the tweeter if your cab has one.

Another alternative worth trying is a low-pass filter such as the one in the Hotone GATE pedal. However, when you are using the Markbass Minimark, trying turning up the VLE control, as this is just a variable low-pass filter so should have the same effect.

Bump!

Bump!

I remember modifying a Dunlop Wah years ago and cutting a slot in the footplate for a microswitch so it turned on and off automatically (instantly) when you took your foot on and off. It worked a treat!

I'm not familiar with the Dunlop Bass wah (I use a Morley Bad Horsie amongst others for guitar). The Bad Horsie has a pot which can adjust the delay.

With the Dunlop I would imagine the delay is controlled by a preset resistor and capacitor (RC network), and if this is the case it would simply be a case of locating them on the PCB and reducing their values to taste. Do you have a schematic (or have you been able to find one on the Web)?

Hi Chris, sorry - only just seen your question.

The internal height and width are standard rack sizes. The depth from front rail to rear rail is about 38cm, but then there is about 5cm additional space inside each lid.

Hope that helps, if you need more info please ask.

@Bbigg Kev - it's a nicely made instrument. I had one of the earlier 6-string Variax guitars and it was OK but not as well-made as this. I currently use one of the newer James Tyler Variax's as my main guitar when on guitar duty and I'd say it's as well-built as any Fender; and it's a Korean model too, not U.S. I haven't tried one of the newer Yamaha-based Line 6 guitars....

Made by K.H. Cases in the UK, this is a custom-made, rugged, pro-quality flightcase with butterfly catches, handle, and a lift-off lid.

Inside, there are two layers of velcro loop-covered platform that can be used to attach effects pedals. There is a dual isolated output 9V/600mA power supply that can power the pedals and an assortment of power supply daisy-chain leads and jack to jack cables.

To simplify connections on stage, there is a set of connections on the rear panel that can be used to bring the signals in or out. There are multiple Neutrik jack sockets and a single XLR. Prewired leads from these inside the case can be used to connect to the pedals on the board. Unused connector can just be left coiled up and hidden underneath the board.

The connection for the mains power supply is also on the rear so it makes for a very quick setup at the gig.

The flightcase has been used so there are a fair few scuffs as would be expected, but it is in good working order.

Size 59 x 38.5 x 21cm approx.

Would prefer collection from Trowbridge, Wiltshire but may be able to post if necessary.

Pro-quality flight case designed for electric bass made in Germany by Thon. Cost new was about £160.

External dimensions: 118 x 41 x 11cm. Should fit most 'normal' instruments.

Padded foam interior with two adjustable foam pieces to support the instrument.

Bought a while ago but never used. Some marks on the outside from storage.

Would prefer if buyer collects from Trowbridge, Wiltshire due to size/weight.

In good condition. External size: 52 x 52 x 23cm. Weight 5kg

A few holes have been drilled on the top near the back where power adapters etc. were mounted but don't affect the function of the rack.

Both front and rear lids are removable and have metal butterfly catches. One carry handle on each side.

Four rubber feet on the underside.

Can be collected from Trowbridge, Wiltshire or can post to mainland UK by Hermes for £8.

I wouldn't have thought anything would have happened to the preamp. Are you listening to the bass on a different amp to before? An amp/cabinet with a tweeter/horn will show up the hiss more.

Also be worth checking the battery, but a low battery tends to produce distortion rather than hiss.

Most likely to be the preamp. Active circuitry will always introduce some amount of noise, the amount depends on the type/quality of the circuitry.

You could maybe consider converting the bass to passive, or adding an active/passive switch.

Also, if you don't need the top-end, turn off the tweeter on your cabinet (if there is a tweeter and switch for it of course).

Bump!