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DIY Effects


JackLondon

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3 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

Oh yes, just a hex inverter. It will sound pretty dirty and glitchy, so maybe it is working (its a logic circuit effectively rather than an amplifier).

It should probably sound a bit like this:

 

 

 

Yeah it sounds similar to this! I like it when it sounds properly but I tried it this afternoon at my reharsal space at higher volume (I can't crank the volume at home) and although it's definitely glitchy (in a good way) the crackle is for sure due to poor connections somewhere. It needs some debug, thanks!! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't know if the solder I'm using is not good quality, or it's poor technique, but sometimes it only leaves on components the rosin and the solder won't stick anymore 

Very annoying, How do I fix it??

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63/37 or 60/40 tin/lead is easiest for home use. Copper based newer lead-free stuff is not so easy to use.

You should use enough of heat. Pots tend to need 40 W while tiny components are OK with 15 W. If you do not give heat, you only get melted flux. The tin starts to act like liquid, when it is fully melted. Flux just helps to clean the parts and the PCB so tin can attach to it. Flux can be washed away with spiritus.

Start the video from 2:00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qps9woUGkvI 

 

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4 minutes ago, itu said:

63/37 or 60/40 tin/lead is easiest for home use. Copper based newer lead-free stuff is not so easy to use.

You should use enough of heat. Pots tend to need 40 W while tiny components are OK with 15 W. If you do not give heat, you only get melted flux. The tin starts to act like liquid, when it is fully melted. Flux just helps to clean the parts and the PCB so tin can attach to it. Flux can be washed away with spiritus.

Start the video from 2:00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qps9woUGkvI 

 

They don't sell tin/lead anymore... I'm using rosin-core lead-free

I'm setting temperature at 320° C, no idea how does it translate in Watts...

 

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Wattage is one thing and temp another. If you look at the papers of your tool, it tells the wattage. Small is under 20 W, middle maybe 30 - 50 W (should be enough for pots). Anything over 60 watts is already really powerful.

Naturally there are tools for roof work but then they are really BIG, I've seen open fire systems up to 100 000 W, so 100 kW.

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8 minutes ago, itu said:

Wattage is one thing and temp another. If you look at the papers of your tool, it tells the wattage. Small is under 20 W, middle maybe 30 - 50 W (should be enough for pots). Anything over 60 watts is already really powerful.

Naturally there are tools for roof work but then they are really BIG, I've seen open fire systems up to 100 000 W, so 100 kW.

I know, the iron itself Is 48 watt but it's a soldering station with adjustable temperature and it is expressed in °C on the switchers! :)

 

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On 13/02/2019 at 15:39, oZZma said:

They don't sell tin/lead anymore... I'm using rosin-core lead-free

I'm setting temperature at 320° C, no idea how does it translate in Watts...

 

Tin/Lead is still readily available. You have to go looking a little bit more, but it's still perfectly legal to sell, It's just a supply and demand thing. Businesses etc. all want to be RoHS compliant so the demand for it plummeted, but you can still get it from more hobby-focused places.  CPC/Farnell sell multicore, or the RS or Rapid own brand stuff is good.

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3 hours ago, bobbass4k said:

Tin/Lead is still readily available. You have to go looking a little bit more, but it's still perfectly legal to sell, It's just a supply and demand thing. Businesses etc. all want to be RoHS compliant so the demand for it plummeted, but you can still get it from more hobby-focused places.  CPC/Farnell sell multicore, or the RS or Rapid own brand stuff is good.

Thanks a lot!! 

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I have found it.Not sure if I want to buy it, given that my "soldering workbench" is in my bedroom. Will a fumes aspirator be enough of a precaution to use it safely?

Edited by oZZma
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I have another question: I decided to start to copy circuits on perfboard instead of buying kits (I think this way I'll spend less, and learn more). What is the most appropriate wire for the circuit connections on perfboard? I like those rigid jumpers to use with  breadboard they sell with Arduino kits, they keep everything so tidy!! but I don't know if they are suitable for audio stuff too, as I have seen only stranded wire in my kits so far...

In case it's ok, what gauge should I buy?

 

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You can use almost whatever that has some reasonable diameter. Within a box (metal one, so a Faraday cage) you may see X-talk, so distance or placement may be more important factors than the wire. But if the wire is really thin (Litz), it may act like a component. And remember those coils: if you have too log a wire, do not make a neat coil out of it. Cut the excess.

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58 minutes ago, itu said:

Some shops still have it and probably sell it. They may not know or care, that in EU it is forbidden to sell tin/lead to consumers since March 2018.

It is not illegal to sell it to certain industries that need and have to use it.

As I understand it's only on the REACH SVHC Candidate list so far, which just increases the obligations of selling it to certain consumers (mandatory SDS etc.). I work at Farnell, compliance isn't my area and it makes my teeth itch, so I'm not going to claim any more specific knowledge, but RoHS/REACH is reviewed constantly by an entire team of very boring but competent people. If we couldn't sell it, we wouldn't.

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8 minutes ago, bobbass4k said:

As I understand it's only on the REACH SVHC Candidate list so far, which just increases the obligations of selling it to certain consumers (mandatory SDS etc.). I work at Farnell, compliance isn't my area and it makes my teeth itch, so I'm not going to claim any more specific knowledge, but RoHS/REACH is reviewed constantly by an entire team of very boring but competent people. If we couldn't sell it, we wouldn't.

funny thing is that I have found it on Amazon, 38% Pb 60% Sn 2% Cu. Several gauges available :ph34r:

https://www.amazon.it/Fixpoint-WT-51063-Saldatura-Argento-Diametro/dp/B000V8IETU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550316963&sr=8-5&keywords=stagno+saldature

Edited by oZZma
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I need some help please!!! :(

WTF is this component?

IMG_20190217_112152.thumb.jpg.c04b60a8e9f08904775b6bed5bdfe990.jpg

The legs won't fit into the holes! No way they can fit. Is this the right way to mount it?

 

IMG_20190217_112334.thumb.jpg.1a71d4aba2f54b98137ab7b0daa452e6.jpg

3rd leg into the bigger hole OUT of the rectangle area?

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13 minutes ago, bartelby said:

Yeah, the outer hole is connected to the centre hole in the box. Looks like it's designed to take a vertical trimmer or a horizontal one.

Thanks!!!!

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