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JackLondon

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Due to me being incapable of not messing with things..... even if they work...... I decided to put the above blender into my Joyo American Sound pedal. The pedal isn't true bypass which caused a lot of head scratching to begin with but, as the American Sound is an 'always on' pedal for me, I took the footswitch out and un-soldered the plastic board-mounted jack sockets, and then soldered send and return leads to the places where the jack-socket tips made their connection to the circuit board. I needed to put a jumper wire (little white loop at the bottom of the circuit board) to get round the not true-bypass signal in.

If you're temped to do the same thing, then after de-soldering the foot switch you're left with 6 empty connections. Going from left to right, 1&2 are LED connections (I wired the LED direct to the 9V in as it's always on), then jumper 3&5 (signal in) and jumper 4&6 (signal out). There's no 4&6 jumper wire on mine 'cos I trashed the signal out connection point trace when removing the out jack socket. My signal out is taken directly off hole #4. I also jumpered the 'battery earth switch' at the input jack where the stereo socket makes the connection with the input jack sleeve.



Edited by ColinB
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[quote name='Passinwind' timestamp='1425755465' post='2710451']
I'm just about to order the permanent front panel, which will look a lot like this, in blue anodized aluminium:



[/quote]


And as it turns out, it actually does look a lot like that, although the blue anodized aluminium stock is a rather different color than the Front Panel Express CAD software might lead one to believe:

Edited by Passinwind
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I've now built a pedal to allow me to choose two other blend settings on the American Sound pedal a couple of posts up.

I chopped into the split'n'blend at the orange and blue wires (see a few more posts up) and took them to the tip and ring connections of a stereo jack. (The sleeve connection is earthed through the aluminium encloseure so that can't be used.)



Then, in a separate enclosure with a stereo jack, mounted a momentary switch with a 10k resister in series with it and put that in parallel across the tip&ring.
Then I mounted a DPDT latching switch in series with a 250k log pot and also put that in parallel across the tip and ring. I put in a battery powered LED using the other side of the DPDT.
I made a stereo patch lead to connect the new box to the American Sound pedal.



The AmSound is set up as always on, with a barely detectable amount of drive, and when I step on the latching switch that effectively changes the resistance of the blend control, depending on the pot setting, and I get more drive - but no increase in volume. I didn't like using boost pedals because I didn't want the volume jump.

If I hold down the momentary switch I get almost full 'wet' blend for those few instances in our set list where I need this sound for 4 bars or so.

This doesn't change the amount of drive - it only changes the wet'n'dry blend in my signal path.

I think it sound very good and I'm really chuffed with it.

Edited by ColinB
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Trooper Boost number 10 :)
Hand painted by Claire Cousins, unfortunaltly the lacquer had an effect on the paint which lost some detail, but still looks badass IMO

[IMG]http://i57.tinypic.com/vh8aqh.jpg[/IMG]

Si

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Just finished a couple of D*A*M* Ezekiel clones. One for myself, and the other for another bass player.
Built both stock as per DAM circuit, including the incredibly hard to get JRC4562 chips. However, instead of 1N34A diodes, I went for NOS Soviet D9K (left) and D9E (right) germanium diodes. These sound sweeter to my ears with a nicer break-up. The difference between the two D9* germaniun types is quite subtle, not decided which of the two types I prefer yet - will have to do a proper A-B test through my rig.
Both pedals sound wicked though. Controls are level, tone, drive, blend & a 'flavour' selector.
Like the original, the selector switches between four clipping modes: germanium, silicon, LED & bypass. After building quite a few different overdrives, this is probably my now favourite . It's really versatile with such a wide range of usable tones - from mild valvey, to fuzzy to all out Rat-like distortion. I can understand why the relatively few who have an original Ezekiel rave about them. Kudos to D*A*M for such a great design! :)

[url="http://s1087.photobucket.com/user/nickonbass69/media/ezekiel%20005_zps8b7yrepe.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s1087.photobucket.com/user/nickonbass69/media/ezekiel%20015_zpshps5krzr.jpg.html"][/url]

Edited by nick
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[quote name='Sibob' timestamp='1428017818' post='2737236']
Where are the PCBs and ICs from bud?

Looking great!!
Si
[/quote]

I think I know....and based on nick's comments and excellent work, I'll be ordering one very soon !

Edited by ahpook
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[quote name='ColinB' timestamp='1428045440' post='2737312']


Look's like the poodles's work to me.
[/quote]

Found it, thanks, although the above boards have a different layout. The Fuzzdog (Poodles) one won't fit in a 125b like the above

Si

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[quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1428017933' post='2737237']
I think I know....and based on nick's comments and excellent work, I'll be ordering one very soon !
[/quote]

[quote name='Sibob' timestamp='1428017818' post='2737236']
Where are the PCBs and ICs from bud?

Looking great!!
Si
[/quote]

Cheers guys. [list]
[*]The best deal I could find for the 4562's was from this ebay seller http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-pcs-NJM4562D-High-Audio-Perf-Dual-Low-Noise-Op-Amp-JRC-DIP8-LM4562NA-/251448091055?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a8b7961af . However, I think other opamps will work i.e. TL072, 4559, 4558 etc... Gonna experiment myself.
[*]There is a good vero layout for the Ezekiel on Tagboard, but I happened to find a New Zealand chap selling some PCBs on the Madbean forum. I bought a few, they are very nice boards, as nice as any that I've had made up, well designed & fit easily into a 125B enclosure. His name is Jeremy and his moniker is 'the3secondrule', also makes pedals (Tinnitus). If you send him a message, he may have one or two left.
[*]2P4T rotaries from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300881322642?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&autorefresh=true Let me know if you need one, I bought 20 off them - so should be able to spare one or two! :)
[/list]
Cheers

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[quote name='Sibob' timestamp='1428046959' post='2737334']
Found it, thanks, although the above boards have a different layout. The Fuzzdog (Poodles) one won't fit in a 125b like the above

Si
[/quote]

mmmm - I noticed that after I posted. However; If you don't board-mount the pots then I think it would fit with the PCB vertical....

(mmmm - I can't use that image extension so no piccie I'm afraid. It's [url="http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Bad_Mofo_Bass_Overdrive_Preamp/p847124_13944061.aspx"]here[/url].)

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[quote name='plunkrock' timestamp='1428330287' post='2740255']
I quite fancy trying my hand at making a GGG tuned muff, does anyone know if there is anywhere in the UK that sells an equivelant kit or do I just have to suck up the extra import charges?

Cheers
[/quote]

Fuzzdog (formerly poodle) is the UK equivalent, I've never done of his kits but I've heard good things. Personally I don't like the GGG muff, I think the civil war is better for bass, with the appropriate bass mods, but most of the muff versions only differ in slight component values, and a lot of them were actually intended to sound the same. If you really wanted to do the GGG muff just check what values are different from the Poodle kit. I'd recommend doing a mids mod, you can either add a switch or a pot.

Edited by bobbass4k
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[quote name='bobbass4k' timestamp='1428332248' post='2740293']
Fuzzdog (formerly poodle) is the UK equivalent, I've never done of his kits but I've heard good things. Personally I don't like the GGG muff, I think the civil war is better for bass, with the appropriate bass mods, but most of the muff versions only differ in slight component values, and a lot of them were actually intended to sound the same. If you really wanted to do the GGG muff just check what values are different from the Poodle kit. I'd recommend doing a mids mod, you can either add a switch or a pot.
[/quote]

Cool! I've been looking at their muff kit and the schematic seems the same as the GGG kit. I've been going through the resistors/caps to see what would make it most like the GGG, but maybe I'll just go for one of their kits instead. Cheers bobbass4k!

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Have you chaps seen the Gallien Krueger power-amp distortion sim pedal designed in collaboration with Frank from FEA Labs and pedal nut John K over at Talkbass? Full details and schematics are over here:

[url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/gk-rails-in-a-pedal.1122467/"]http://www.talkbass....-pedal.1122467/[/url]

Clips:

[url="http://soundcloud.com/johnk_10/gk800rbv5"]http://soundcloud.co...nk_10/gk800rbv5[/url]
[url="http://soundcloud.com/johnk_10/gk800rbv5-2"]http://soundcloud.co..._10/gk800rbv5-2[/url]

I'd love to try one if anyone's up for building me one!

Edited by dannybuoy
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[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1428357593' post='2740611']
Have you chaps seen the Gallien Krueger power-amp distortion sim pedal designed in collaboration with Frank from FEA Labs and pedal nut John K over at Talkbass? Full details and schematics are over here:

[url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/gk-rails-in-a-pedal.1122467/"]http://www.talkbass....-pedal.1122467/[/url]

Clips:

[url="http://soundcloud.com/johnk_10/gk800rbv5"]http://soundcloud.co...nk_10/gk800rbv5[/url]
[url="http://soundcloud.com/johnk_10/gk800rbv5-2"]http://soundcloud.co..._10/gk800rbv5-2[/url]

I'd love to try one if anyone's up for building me one!
[/quote]

Can you see what page the final schematics are on? (Not the etched PCB layout, the actual schematic (and not the schem of the original amp)).

Si

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[quote name='Sibob' timestamp='1428371284' post='2740687']
Can you see what page the final schematics are on? (Not the etched PCB layout, the actual schematic (and not the schem of the original amp)).

Si
[/quote]

No - the two links to a .pdf file that I've found in the thread don't work.

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