the-bass-man Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 (edited) Hey y'all After looking around on here and Talkbass for a while, I've decided that my old 4-string is in need of a revamp. Pickups, pots, jack and preamp are all sorted, but I really want to strip down the body and have a natural finish. This bass is a Peavey Milestone III, and though I'm not sure, I think it's a trans blue finish with a lacquer over the top. I was simply wondering how I would go about stripping this finish off, whether I'd be okay with a paint stripping fluid or gell, or whether I'd have to sand the finish off. Anybody either tried this or know what to do? BTW, I work at a department store (Homebase) so getting hold of stripping agents isn't a problem. Thanks Oli Edited July 22, 2009 by the-bass-man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spartacus Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Nitromors. its probbaly a think polyester finish so slap it on for half an hour and wipe it off then use proggressive grades of sandpaper to finish it down. if you start with sanding youll spend weeks getting into the cutaways and probbaly take off too much on the curves and contours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-bass-man Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Right, Nitromors is easy enough to get hold of for me. Should I sand it by hand or use an orbital or mouse (small hand-held) sander? And I was thinking just a Danish Oil finish, but would Teak Oil work too? I'd like quite a dark finish, but I'll have a look when I'm next at work to see what's available. Oli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spartacus Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 [quote name='the-bass-man' post='538928' date='Jul 12 2009, 10:41 PM']Right, Nitromors is easy enough to get hold of for me. Should I sand it by hand or use an orbital or mouse (small hand-held) sander? And I was thinking just a Danish Oil finish, but would Teak Oil work too? I'd like quite a dark finish, but I'll have a look when I'm next at work to see what's available. Oli[/quote] By hand! or you'll get little flats everywhere and end up doing it by hand anyway. Danish oil gives a semi matte finish and teak oil gives a glossier finish. Mix the first coat 50/50 with a thinner to sink in and leave it to set and dry. after that oil it and rub it in with wet and dry sandpaper to fill the grain and even up the finish. Start with 400 grade and end up with 1200 or 1600 garde for a really fine finish. Make sure you let each 'grade' dry for a couple of days before moving to the next finer one. PS if homebase dont do 1200 or 1600 grade then Halfords do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-bass-man Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Right, so Nitromors followed by sandpaper to take it back to the wood. Then the oil - what's the best way to apply this? Brush, pad, cloth? And no, Homebase aren't that specialised with sandpaper - I'll hit Halfords, I need some bits for the car anyway! Cheers, Oli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spartacus Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 [quote name='the-bass-man' post='538961' date='Jul 12 2009, 11:04 PM']Right, so Nitromors followed by sandpaper to take it back to the wood. Then the oil - what's the best way to apply this? Brush, pad, cloth?[/quote] Do the first sealer with a cloth of 50/50 oil and thinner. Then Pour on a small bit of neat oil directly to the wood and sand it in with proggressive grades of wet and dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-bass-man Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Gotcha, just hope the weather's good enough to do this all outside in the next few weeks! Well, this is Scotland...! Thanks for all the advice Spartacus, I'll keep this thread active as the stripping progresses, all other opinions/experiences/advice welcome! Oli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Protium Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Sand the entire thing by hand. Nitromors is horrible stuff and doesn't work very well IME, especially if you're leaving it natural. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-bass-man Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 I'm testing the Nitromors on the neck pocket, see what happens. If it's no good, it won't be noticeable at least but from reading the back, it looks to be good stuff. Oli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcrow Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 what do those pine dipper guys use to strip doors...that could be the answer i have used nitromors as well so go easy with the water finishing you can make up caustic soda solution to do it but its dangerous and you need oxalic acid to finish off a slow low temperature process with not too much water would be the best bet...ie nitromors..and use soft applicators..sponges etc finishing off is i guess the longest and most arduous process and you may find hidden things under that paint which may need attention natural wood really appeals to me...the look and the feel best of luck cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warwickhunt Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 [quote name='the-bass-man' post='538979' date='Jul 12 2009, 11:21 PM']Gotcha, just hope the weather's good enough to do this all outside in the next few weeks! Well, this is Scotland...![/quote] Don't forget the midgee repellent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soopercrip Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Pine dipping fluid is a bit harsh for a bass, it tends to soften any glue in the door joints, so any glued 2/3 piece bodies would be in danger of separating. You could use a cabinet scraper to remove some of the finish (gently!!!) or pop to your local glass merchant and ask him to cut up an off cut (about 100x100mm) wet and dry will take the sharpness off 3 edges and corners to handle it and use the 4th edge as a cabinet scraper. He'll probably give you it for free out of his scrap bin. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcrow Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 [quote name='soopercrip' post='544501' date='Jul 19 2009, 09:15 AM']Pine dipping fluid is a bit harsh for a bass, it tends to soften any glue in the door joints, so any glued 2/3 piece bodies would be in danger of separating. You could use a cabinet scraper to remove some of the finish (gently!!!) or pop to your local glass merchant and ask him to cut up an off cut (about 100x100mm) wet and dry will take the sharpness off 3 edges and corners to handle it and use the 4th edge as a cabinet scraper. He'll probably give you it for free out of his scrap bin. Andy[/quote] cheers andy didnt know the pine stuff was so harsh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-bass-man Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 *update* I've stripped down the majority of the bass now, just some of the edges left to do now. I'll tackle what's left either with more Nitromors or increasingly-fine grades of sandpaper. The Beginning: After the first strip: Once it's stripped completely, it's oiling time! Oli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcrow Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 thats a lot of work there to do ..can you do it mechanically Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-bass-man Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 After having just examined a chip in the finish, I've realised that there's about 1-2mm of polyurethane to go through yet. Might have to empoy a sander for this one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee4 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 If you use oil,burn the rags as soon as you have finished for the day!If they are left scrunched up they can spontaineously combust(this happened to a customer of mine,lucky he had public liability insurance.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-bass-man Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 I have access to a hand-held belt sander, would this be too savage to use? Would it rip up the wood, or would it be ok? I'd only use it on the flat surfaces, and hand-sand the horns and curves. Oli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everogere Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Hi Dont wanna put a damper on your enthuisium but many painted basses and guitars are made up of several pieces of wood, this is certainly ture of Fenders, you may find they are totally different textures and or colour and therefore not very attractive when left natrual. The first primer coat (last coat to remove) will always be the most difficult to remove, but the effort can be rewarded with a unique bass. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee4 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 I recently stripped and refinished an old Samick P-bass.I used Ntromors and a sander to strip the finish,and dyed it black(I used Liberon Palette wood dye)and coated it with wax.It came out pretty good for a first attempt,and the black finish hides the fact that it is a 3-piece body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-bass-man Posted July 25, 2009 Author Share Posted July 25, 2009 The good news is that the body is now mostly stripped - the bad news is that it's a three-piece body. Although there's some interesting figuring in the wood. Pics up a.s.a.p. Oli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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