Truss rod AGAIN

[Lfalex v1.1]

This time its my Warwick Fortress 😡

Was fine until I put it away in a hard case for a bit.

It's a '98, so it ought to have a regular Truss Rod, not a reverse, right?

Action is medium-low. Fretted at 1st and 24th shows about 1.5 mm between strings and frets at the 12th.

I'm getting fret buzz at 1st to 3rd frets on all strings. Fine thereafter.

Watched YT tutorials and none helped. 

All seemed to suggest loosening the rod. Surely that'll give me too much relief at around the 12th... Do I then have to go back and re-do the action and intonation.

What about when it warms up again?

All I wanted was a 5 minute noodle on a different bass. Not an odyssey into bass maintenence. 

Failing that,  I burn it whilst dancing around the fire like a goblin...

 

[FinnDave]

I took my Fender Vintera 60s bass out to a rehearsal last week. I bought the bass new last September, had it professionally set up, played it once, then left it in its case (in the same room as my other basses). When I took it out of the case at the rehearsal, the neck had developed a lot of relief - I have my necks set flat (as advised my the local tech, who got me to try it and I agreed). so playing it was a bit of a struggle.

Took back to the tech yesterday, he said it should be a quick job, just a tweak on the truss rod. Couple of hours later, he phoned me to tell me that there was no more adjustment left in the truss rod.

I have contacted the shop I bought it from, but not had a reply yet.

If you decide to burn your Warwick, I might jin you with the Vintera!

[Aidan63]

1st 3 frets sounds like nut is cut a bit low, have you changed strings to something different ?

[Lfalex v1.1]

58 minutes ago, Aidan63 said:

1st 3 frets sounds like nut is cut a bit low, have you changed strings to something different ?

Nope. Same gauge and manufacturer as usual. 

It has a Just-a-nut II. Nothing wrong with that either. 

I've eased the truss rod off ¼ of a turn. It's helped a little, but now the action further down the neck is getting a bit much.

[Delberthot]

2 hours ago, Aidan63 said:

1st 3 frets sounds like nut is cut a bit low, have you changed strings to something different ?

 

As soon as you fret a note you take the nut out of the equation. The nut would only be an issue if the string buzzed against the frets when playing an open string

[Twincam]

Relief is measured at the 7th fret.

When fretting first to last fret.

 

Overall action height measured at the 17th fret.

 

Assuming nut is cut correctly. You can check by fretting all strings 3rd fret. There should be a tiny almost paper thin gap. 

 

Tune to standard tuning. Then fret the first with capo or finger. The press down the last fret with finger or elbow as i do if not using capo. Then with a feeler blade measure at the 7th between string and top of the fret. Personal choice here but anywhere between .004 and .015 is correct. Flatter radius boards should be .010 and under in general.

9.5-7.5 radius need more relief plus .010. Again that's just in general. 

 

Next set the string height via the bridge. Measuring the non fretted strings at the 17th fret. 

 

 

[Lfalex v1.1]

Thanks for the help. 

Alas that I lack measuring tools. And can't be doing with a full set-up just because half my instruments have taken umbrage at being stored away.  They have been before.  What's so different this year?

 

Think I'm feeling it for that bonfire. 🔥

[Downunderwonder]

Find a business card that matches your desired clearance on another bass, no fancy gauges required.