Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

MarkBass repaire


greggi g
 Share

Recommended Posts

Agree with @lownote.

Here are their charges.

£35 to diagnose the problem, which you get back if you go ahead. £69 fixed labour, £18 courier fee to send it back + parts. I am pretty sure they don't repair to component level, so it'll be the cost of the relevant PCB 

All prices are + VAT and the final cost is likely to be £200+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have just been reading an 11 year old thread on Talkbass about this very problem. Markbass and others including the Music Tribe group  (Behringer, Bugera, TC Electronic, TC Helicon and more) will only give service manuals or circuit diagrams (schematics to our friends over the pond) to authorised  Service Centres. Now there is a nasty rumour that class D amps and SMPS power supplies cannot be fixed. They are harder but this is bullshine. Even my 70 years old eyes can see surface mount components and remove and replace them without a great deal of trouble. So I just made the decision to avoid MB and Music Tribe in future. Small problem here in that I have a Bugera Amp but that will soon be relegated to spare.

 

I used to work for Panasonic UK and you could buy a Service Manual for a few pounds. Anyone not just an Authorised Service Centre.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 04/08/2021 at 21:38, Chienmortbb said:

What model is it?

 

On 04/08/2021 at 10:48, TheGreek said:

My Tech, in Stevenage, will make reasonable charges but getting parts for Markbass gear is a nightmare.

 

As @Bigwan says, it would be helpful to know what's wrong with it.

the amp stays on for about 30mins then shuts down, then after a few minutes i turn it on and it does the same again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dropped my MB head, after which it would occasionally have a fizzing fit. I suspected unseated componentry. A bloke in Norwich was recommended. He examined the head thoughfully from all angles, waggled the knobs and went out of the room, returning with a length of 2x4. There followed what cricketists like top call the sound of leather on willow, or in this case wood on Marbass's finest casing material. He handed the head back to me, charged me £30 and it worked fine. NFN.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, lownote said:

I dropped my MB head, after which it would occasionally have a fizzing fit. I suspected unseated componentry. A bloke in Norwich was recommended. He examined the head thoughfully from all angles, waggled the knobs and went out of the room, returning with a length of 2x4. There followed what cricketists like top call the sound of leather on willow, or in this case wood on Marbass's finest casing material. He handed the head back to me, charged me £30 and it worked fine. NFN.

dont have a piece of 4x2 but ill try my shot gun thats probably the best thing for the MB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know your amp, or how brave you are ....

 

The sort of problem you describe is very often heat related. A less than secure connection heats up and suddenly contact is lost.

 

A lot of electrical gear these days is hooked up with ribbon connectors, these have a great history of working loose. Personally. I'd pop the lid and push on all the connectors and make sure everything is seated properly. Obviously, taking precautions not to connect yourself directly to the mains. Check for loose screws, sometimes power modules can be bolted to the case as an additional heat sink.

 

Never heard of the 4x2 test, but the drop test was a very common way to 'repair' electrical products and possibly still is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, John Cribbin said:

I don't know your amp, or how brave you are ....

 

The sort of problem you describe is very often heat related. A less than secure connection heats up and suddenly contact is lost.

 

A lot of electrical gear these days is hooked up with ribbon connectors, these have a great history of working loose. Personally. I'd pop the lid and push on all the connectors and make sure everything is seated properly. Obviously, taking precautions not to connect yourself directly to the mains. Check for loose screws, sometimes power modules can be bolted to the case as an additional heat sink.

 

Never heard of the 4x2 test, but the drop test was a very common way to 'repair' electrical products and possibly still is.

👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, John Cribbin said:

I

 

Never heard of the 4x2 test, but the drop test was a very common way to 'repair' electrical products and possibly still is.

The trouble is that the drop test is usually followed by what is known as a Bouncer, a product that keeps coming back for repair.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...