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Equipment storage


Combed20

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Looks like the wife and I are going to renovate the building in our garden into a proper office and music area. Double glazed windows, and a decent door - but I am still concerned about storing all my gear in the garden. Anyone here have a similar set up? Have they employed any other security measures? I have considered installing a cage to lock my gear in - but I've no idea where one actually buys a security cage!

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Have been thinking the same, but decided to just get furniture, electrics, heating and light up to the building, but not store anything. I’d be too worried all the time. We have a Rottweiler, but she’s likely to “cute” an assailant into submission currently, things will change in a few months mind.

Is the building near to the main house? That is a factor. 

D2E26706-B734-4A46-9FCD-57A40554DE39.jpeg

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Security wise, if it's a timber building then a lock is just a deterrent. If someone knows what's in there and wants it they'll just lever the boards off if your lock's too difficult. An alarm might be a good option so if anyone does get in they'll alert other people. But as Dad says, your location will decide what you need. 

Insulation on all walls and ceiling, and depending on floor type the floor as well. If it's cold in there then metal surfaces will condensate. Good insulation will keep the temperature from getting too low overnight and if you've got heating you'll need want to insulate it anyway. 

 

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In general, the solution to condensation is ventilation. Heating, whilst inside, makes it more convivial in winter, but it's not the low temperatures that harm stuff, it's the lack of moving air to dry the place out.
If there is any valuable stuff stored in there, a camera would be a useful accessory to have. In fact, I'd recommend two, with both of them feeding a remote recorder (in the house, or on t'web..?). This might be able to provide the constabulary with evidence, in case of infraction.
Just my tuppence-worth. :friends:

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11 hours ago, Dan Dare said:

One thing to be aware of if you're thinking of using an outside storage space is damp and especially condensation if the temperature is likely to get low in the space. Will it be heated?

Yes, radiators will be installed.

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12 hours ago, Silvia Bluejay said:

Brick and mortar (as opposed to timber), aircon/heating unit keeping things at a constant temperature, no windows, and a steel door that would make Fort Knox proud is our solution.

This (above) is the THIRD time I've done this. 

This (below) is the FIRST time:

 

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Buy cheap basses like I do, then nobody will want to nick them.

But seriously, I would be highly dubious about that idea because peace of mind would be a priority for me. I wouldn't dare go away on holiday without taking every steal-worthy item indoors. I would have to have a big sign outside saying "Snake sanctuary"

 

 

 

 

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23 hours ago, Silvia Bluejay said:

Forgot to say that we have insulation too, as @Maude suggests. Internal ply layer with rockwool between the bricks (and the ceiling) and the ply. It's both for temperature and sound insulation (for the latter, more precisely as noise suppression).

Curious to know if you have any idea of the cost of running air con/heating all year round?  I’m toying with the idea of insulating our single garage, though sadly not for a music space but rather an exercise one.  The temperature control requirements would be a little easier, being mainly to keep it reasonably cool in summer rather than warm in winter.

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4 minutes ago, Gottastopbuyinggear said:

Curious to know if you have any idea of the cost of running air con/heating all year round? 

The most accurate answer is, it depends.

Sorry.

I leave the Junkyard set to 18C all year round, the constructions has a fair bit of bulk, and the space contains a large amount of bulky equipment. I think of it as a heat sink. Once the entire room and its contents are at 18C it is likely to be cheaper (and certainly quicker and easier) to keep it at that temperature than to let it cool/heat to outside temperature and then have to regain 18C when I want to use the space.

It helps that it's a windowless space and the door is really very solid indeed.

In truth, by far the costliest element of the whole thing was buying & installing a decent light industrial aircon unit. The purchase price for that massively outweighed the impact it has on our electricity bill! I could easily justify it though, since the Junkyard would be effectively unusable for at least three months of each year without it.

Heating it only, no aircon, would be relatively WAY cheaper. Just buy an electric greenhouse heater and plug it in 24/7 during cold weather. Bin there, dun that.

 

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I’ve been planning a building for some years (got the foundation in!).  I can’t see it being any different to having nice gear in the house.  If someone wants something bad enough, they’ll go get it.  CCTV images are good to have, but seeing as much of it as I do, the perpetrators just don’t give a sh!t!!  A decent lock or two on a decent door, things to put people off like gravel leading up to the door (noisy to walk on), spikey plants at boundaries, a long walk to the front door (rather than a door straight out on to the street).

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On 07/03/2021 at 09:10, Gottastopbuyinggear said:

Curious to know if you have any idea of the cost of running air con/heating all year round?  I’m toying with the idea of insulating our single garage, though sadly not for a music space but rather an exercise one.  The temperature control requirements would be a little easier, being mainly to keep it reasonably cool in summer rather than warm in winter.

I got one of these - Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Dual Relays Heating Cooling 220V Plug https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018K82UQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_CVB625VM2YQHZW66EQE0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

which has two sockets. Connect one to a heater and one to a fan. Set your desired temperature and it will trigger one or other of those to keep it in your specified range 

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If you're starting from scratch it may work out way cheaper to buy a standard anti-vandal site cabin, even if you have to have it craned into position (Allow about £1k for this)

There are loads of these about.in all sizes. A decent one will be £3k - £5k  Check for roof corrosion - that's what kills these.

Bottom pic is a cabin being craned into my back garden when we moved into a newly refurbished place about 7 years ago.

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image.thumb.png.5e6cee226896546df0f760c0297ad2a1.png

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Great question, I worked on Mark Owen's house some years back as he was installing a recording studio at the end of his garden,  Security, water proofing, sound proofing, electrical supply, etc were expensive.  Even he was shocked but understood the implications.  Would get some trusted professional build advice including insurance coverage as well.

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Nobody has mentioned decent locks. For example, these:

https://www.lockandkey.co.uk/p/abs-anti-snap-euro-cylinder/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA1pyCBhCtARIsAHaY_5dS3i7Hwu1J0Irv8K4dbe19YV_WpDElb4aYdmNNdNGLnFMOGlvqmOEaAsfLEALw_wcB

Are TS007 3 star. Basically, the lock is difficult to pick even by an expert with specialist tools (there is a magnetic interactive element on the key which needs to be overcome) and knowledge of the lock type (there are side bars which will prevent picking unless unset too). And if its forced, it will snap secure. So the quickest way in after that, would be to cut the door or via an alternate means. Ie an undetected, quick entry is not possible.

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On 05/03/2021 at 18:48, Combed20 said:

Looks like the wife and I are going to renovate the building in our garden into a proper office and music area. Double glazed windows, and a decent door - but I am still concerned about storing all my gear in the garden. Anyone here have a similar set up? Have they employed any other security measures? I have considered installing a cage to lock my gear in - but I've no idea where one actually buys a security cage!

I have a stone outbuilding which was one of the reasons we bought the house. 

There's been a spate of scallies doing the rounds recently, with both of our cars having been done over in the last few weeks, so I've ordered a steel security door to fit to replace the shonky old wooden one. 

When we bought, the building seemed fine, but we realised it was very damp - ended up having to have it all tanked and now run a dehumidifier in there permanently. 

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On 09/03/2021 at 14:02, paul_c2 said:

Nobody has mentioned decent locks. For example, these:

https://www.lockandkey.co.uk/p/abs-anti-snap-euro-cylinder/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA1pyCBhCtARIsAHaY_5dS3i7Hwu1J0Irv8K4dbe19YV_WpDElb4aYdmNNdNGLnFMOGlvqmOEaAsfLEALw_wcB

Are TS007 3 star. Basically, the lock is difficult to pick even by an expert with specialist tools (there is a magnetic interactive element on the key which needs to be overcome) and knowledge of the lock type (there are side bars which will prevent picking unless unset too). And if its forced, it will snap secure. So the quickest way in after that, would be to cut the door or via an alternate means. Ie an undetected, quick entry is not possible.

I did some lock design for ERA a long time ago, even then the premier lock specialists at the Police told me that no one picks locks anymore - they just break the doors open. 

 

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Not on domestic - the "stakes" of a domestic break in, all told, aren't that high, unless you have something unusually high value at home. 

But for sensitive commercial properties, higher security is often needed.

There's 3 types of break in - destructive, non-destructive and undetectable. The difference between the last 2 being, non-destructive visually isn't apparent, but forensics (for example, looking for scratch marks in lock pins from picking, or other tell-tale marks once its disassembled and examined closely) can detect that the break-in occurred.

Break ins aren't that common, but there does happen, targeted break-ins of high-value facilities. And there's plenty of mistakes made which make it easy to do. A home owner can learn from these mistakes and benefit from them!

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