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jjl5590

Cioks DC7 heat?

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DC7 is able to push continuous 600 mA and maximum of 660 mA / output. That is

7 x 600 mA x 9 VDC = 37.8 W (continuous)

7 x 660 mA x 9 VDC = 41.5 W (maximum)

Your digital FX units are very power hungry, to say the least. Their input power figures are very high, although it may be so that the numbers relate to their short time maximum consumption:

C4: 165 mA

SDrum: 500 mA

JamMan: 900 mA

HX: 3 000 mA (3 A!)

In total this is 4565 mA = 41 W (@ 9 VDC), which is about the same as the DC7 is able to push out. It is no wonder your power is hot. If you have a 40 watt lamp at hand, put it on and feel the heat. No, please do not burn your fingers.

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Agreed with @itu 

The current draw for the Stomp may well be < 3A though: 

How to power Line 6 HX Stomp, HX Effects and others with CIOKS DC7 - YouTube

At 13.26 he provides a summary of power draw for the various Line 6 multis and is suggesting < 1amp for the Stomp. However this is just in power-up mode.

I suspect if you are using patches that require full fat DSP utilisation then the power consumption would increase (although I'll leave that to more expert engineers amongst us e.g. @Woodinblack to confirm), but even then I'm not aware of other folk having problems with using just two outputs from the DC7, which provides circa 1.3A output, having issues with powering either their Helix HX Effects or Stomps.

Edited by Al Krow

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.... I run a stomp from a Cioks DC7 and it does get warm, but not hot if you know what I mean.

B8DDCDA4-08EF-48CB-A45D-C7B4D1A15445.thumb.jpeg.6248a706aed779ecc4efe5cdc3deab11.jpegC0BE0BAA-92DA-46F0-9B5A-654998BA39E6.thumb.jpeg.b39efb9360e1a29c8583c81ab64ba74c.jpeg

... the space bottom right is for an incoming foot switch 👍🏼

Edited by jimbobothy
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... I’ve noticed you’re using a Metro (flat design) with the DC7 directly underneath the Stomp. The Stomp itself can get warm, along with the DC7 also getting warm and less airflow (potentially) around the DC7 due to the tighter clearances could lead to the overall temp to be higher. 

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3 hours ago, jimbobothy said:

.... I run a stomp from a Cioks DC7 and it does get warm, but not hot if you know what I mean.

Yes but all of your other pedals are lower draw and you've got one of the raised pedaltrains.

 

OP, as long as that's stable and it's all working it should be fine. CIOKS are among the best and I'm sure that if your DC7 starts to run too hot or with too higher load it will fail gracefully. Probably just politely turn itself off for a bit until it cools down.

 

Just don't overload one of those £15 ebay special power supplies, yeah? :D 

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15 minutes ago, Jack said:

Yes but all of your other pedals are lower draw and you've got one of the raised pedaltrains.

 

OP, as long as that's stable and it's all working it should be fine. CIOKS are among the best and I'm sure that if your DC7 starts to run too hot or with too higher load it will fail gracefully. Probably just politely turn itself off for a bit until it cools down.

 

Just don't overload one of those £15 ebay special power supplies, yeah? :D 

Haha I started off with a Moskey ISO 10 power supply, it didn't get hot at all but was very noisy

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1 minute ago, jjl5590 said:

Haha I started off with a Moskey ISO 10 power supply, it didn't get hot at all but was very noisy

I think Moskey are supposed to be one of the better cheaper brands.

 

I don't know. To me it's like car tires, power supplies are worth doing properly even if they're not exciting. I learned this not from bass pedalboards but from building computers. In that hobby you can have one of these or one of these. And they're the same, right? I had (still have actually) a Thomann own brand one pedal power supply, but then as soon as I 'got in to' pedals properly I went straight for Strymon and now I've got a Cioks DC5. Baffles me that people will have a board with £1000+ worth of pedals on it and they can't spring the extra £75 that would get them a decent power supply instead of their ... current ... one.

 

That's a power supply joke right there. I'm here all night, ladies and gentlemen. Try the fish and tip your waiter. 

 

 

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Having had both Cioks and OneSpot (both excellent btw), I've also been very happy with my HB Iso-5 which is definitely 'quality budget'. 

I've just seen they've also got an Iso-12 out which puts out a full 3A but with twelve isolated outputs. Could be just the ticket for a slightly larger board build for more than the 7 pedals I've got on my current board anf which the Iso-5 handles really well.

Only issue I have is the Iso-12 is slightly 'higher' at 192 x 70 x 30 mm (vs the tiny  Iso-5 at 110 x 60 x 20 mm) and not sure I'd have enough clearance below my Metro 24 board.

image.png.67089669ea6a64520678840148538718.png

@jjl5590I noticed you had managed to swap out the 'bolted' rubber feet on your Metro board for ones with better clearance which you've screwed in - was that a pretty easy 'hack'?

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3 hours ago, Al Krow said:

Having had both Cioks and OneSpot (both excellent btw), I've also been very happy with my HB Iso-5 which is definitely 'quality budget'. 

I've just seen they've also got an Iso-12 out which puts out a full 3A but with twelve isolated outputs. Could be just the ticket for a slightly larger board build for more than the 7 pedals I've got on my current board anf which the Iso-5 handles really well.

Only issue I have is the Iso-12 is slightly 'higher' at 192 x 70 x 30 mm (vs the tiny  Iso-5 at 110 x 60 x 20 mm) and not sure I'd have enough clearance below my Metro 24 board.

image.png.67089669ea6a64520678840148538718.png

@jjl5590I noticed you had managed to swap out the 'bolted' rubber feet on your Metro board for ones with better clearance which you've screwed in - was that a pretty easy 'hack'?

It was easy but a bit of a botch-job, so not sure how repeatable it is. I cut off the end of some wall plugs and used them to anchor the screw in the metal. Seems to be holding sturdy

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