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420 Neck Through Precision

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Dumb question: since you have taken what looks like 5mm off the body along the string line, won't the bridge now sit too low wrt the fretboard, resulting in horrible action? Or is there some cunningness en route?

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String line looks the only bit not touched to me - thickness off the whole of the back and the wings on the front face, no?

 

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I don't know how I missed this!

This is MAGNIFICENT :)

The concept is right - leave everything that has a structural or geometric function alone and everything left (at least 50% of the weight) is fair game.

Great skills on show here, too. Handsawing with that level of accuracy is someone who really knows what they are doing.

Honestly, one of my favourite mod threads I've seen on the forum...including my own :D

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1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Great skills on show here, too. Handsawing with that level of accuracy is someone who really knows what they are doing.

I thought that too.  I'd love to see how that was done.  It must have taken ages.

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Getting there with the finish, staining it a mahogany burst like the mid ‘60’s thunderbirds. Oil or wax over that, going to through string it and just have a slim Gibson type bridge but no tailpiece, ordered the gotoh parts yesterday. Stil toying with the idea of a wooden floating arch top bridge to keep things light and resonant. I can’t decide if a chrome adjustable bridge might be a nicer way of doing things. A bit of Gibson and a bit of fender. 

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On 23/11/2020 at 18:25, Richard R said:

Dumb question: since you have taken what looks like 5mm off the body along the string line, won't the bridge now sit too low wrt the fretboard, resulting in horrible action? Or is there some cunningness en route?

Fair point, I took very little of the top where the bridge will sit, I took off the old finish that’s all, the slice came off the back. 

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On 24/11/2020 at 10:04, SpondonBassed said:

I thought that too.  I'd love to see how that was done.  It must have taken ages.

I just marked all the way around the back of the body about 6.5mm in then carefully cut that line in as a saw guide. Light plane to make it flat. The wings on the front were done with an 18 volt plane. All done with basic site tools really. All the saw cuts left the end of the saw blade (the wobbly end which leaves marks) ended over the rib contour as I knew I was going to take more off there. I wanted the front to be contours where it rests on your body and everywhere else slab edged. Following on the Gibson meets fender idea. Feels really nice, you are right though, it took ages. 

Edited by headofire
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1 hour ago, headofire said:

Fair point, I took very little of the top where the bridge will sit, I took off the old finish that’s all, the slice came off the back. 

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Thanks, makes far more sense now.

I quite like the pic above, a sort of 1970's beige racing stripe type look 😁

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Few more pics.. really getting there with the finish. It’s stained with Liberon water based Mahogany and Ebony stain. That shine is just from polishing from 500/1000/2000/4000 pads after each coat. I keep finding more grain sealer patches and going back to to bare wood.. the lustre from the bare wood should hopefully mean It will shine really nicely when i oil it tomorrow. Using the Osmo wax/oil that Stradi use on their instruments. I don’t spray nitro anymore as it’s absolutely lethal. Also wanted to try something different that’s easy peasy to touch up in future. 
Stopped for a snack break and a quick basschat update.. let me know what you think out there in lockdown land 

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Edited by headofire
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7 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Lovely :) Which of the Osmos are you using?

Stradi use the Clear hard wax, I have some of the top oil, a wax/oil blend that’s really good stuff. I have some leftover from my day job and it’s lovely to work with. It’s food safe and resistant to sweat and liquids, and importantly already paid for and in my house 🤣

It should gleam up when I stop obsessing over the pictures of mid 60’s non reverse thunderbirds trying to copy the burst. 

 

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There's a damned fine gleam coming off of that!

I still find it hard to believe you made the chopping board cut with a hand saw!  I mean... didn't you have to flat it somewhat after?  I saw no mention of planing unless I overlooked it.

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as @SpondonBassed said re sawing – I've had a chippy in recently who's saw work was art itself – as straight as an arrow – how do they do it?!

Great rescue of this budget bass – my first bass also, back in 1980!

Nice!!!

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On 03/12/2020 at 11:07, SpondonBassed said:

There's a damned fine gleam coming off of that!

I still find it hard to believe you made the chopping board cut with a hand saw!  I mean... didn't you have to flat it somewhat after?  I saw no mention of planing unless I overlooked it.

I did plane it yeah.. here’s the offcut cheese board. It’s really not that tricky just a bit of patience and holding the line, leaving the flexing end of the saw over one point, the rib contour, that I knew I’d do more work on. 
I probably planed about 1.5/2 mil. Made a balls of the planing using a 18v one.. but didn’t have a nice one here in lockdown.. when I did the headstock I nearly killed it tbh. That really cool indent on the headstock pics was a mistake.. let it slip as I came off and it left a Gouge by the E string. Happy accident I’d say.. couldn’t do that again if I tried
 

 

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Body drilled for string ferrules and decided to try a floating bridge, I have some recycled ebony and Brazilian rosewood to try.. It doesn’t feel right sticking a heavy bridge on it.. at least not the moment. 
 

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Brazilian rosewood bridge (off-cut from a broken Victorian table..)

AC897ADF-EBB0-4E85-BC0C-48EBB96D8CDC.thumb.jpeg.77559e1ab4cc52391b3d9830170fb4e4.jpegA very rough idea, something like a double bass bridge principle. Nearly zero mass bridge? 

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Edited by headofire
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Although I like the work, I don't get the attraction for a wooden bridge.  Is it just an aesthetic choice or have you a preference for other reasons?

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48 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

Although I like the work, I don't get the attraction for a wooden bridge.  Is it just an aesthetic choice or have you a preference for other reasons?

I play double bass.. the bridges typically aren’t adjustable in the same sense, they are cut and worked to intonate properly on the instrument they are made for. 

I have been looking at the Stradi basses a lot, really appreciating the mix of acoustic and electric basses, low weight, recycling and found timber, resonant. 

Worth noting.. The luthier helping me makes acoustics and archtops that start around 4K.. none of them have an adjustable bridge. 

When making acoustic instruments you use selected wood that’s specifically chosen to NOT to weigh the instruments top down.. they mute the instrument. I don’t really want to screw 3/4 of a kg of brass and grub screws onto this only to intonate it once then never adjust it again. 
I have got some hip shot individual saddles that I had thought would go on here but it’s a fun project I want to try something different. May well end up with them on there.. who knows.

I used to use a hollow Japanese fender Precision that had an acoustic saddle and piezo and loved it. 

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I like the idea of this and will be very interested to see how it works out.

What are you planning to do for the earthing?

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