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Router bit


Fishman
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It needs to be long enough to reach the bottom of the cavity. Don’t take chances by extending the shank too far out of the chuck.

Drill out most of the cavity, so that you are only really finishing the edges and bottom with router bit.

Also, make many small passes, going down a few millimetres at a time along the sides.

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Agreed all of the above - Firsch Forstner bit is best for drilling out, Axminster tools website will give you what you need, remember ball bearing needs to be at the top not the bottom.

Its maybe overkill but I have a short and a long one. Use short first till it’s depth and then the long one. I use my mains router first and sometimes finish off with the handheld battery one for the finer adjustments 

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10 hours ago, Fishman said:

one more question… what cutting depth do I need on the router bit?

It's for running along the edge of my Stingray pup cavity

How much are you planning to take off the edge?

If it's not a lot (<1mm) you might be better off with a decent sharp chisel.

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2 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

How much are you planning to take off the edge?

If it's not a lot (<1mm) you might be better off with a decent sharp chisel.

Honestly you won’t get the same result with that - minor adjustments are easier and neater with a well made template and router with the correct router bit

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it's just a smidgen to accommodate the Haussell MM pickup – the body is a new one and the short edge is not quite right, just a couple of mm nearer the bridge

I will experiment with a chisel on some scrap, but although I'm a novice, I have done a few bits and pieces that have been better with the router

It's part of a slooooooow build thread so I'll update there soon

 

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3 minutes ago, Fishman said:

it's just a smidgen to accommodate the Haussell MM pickup – the body is a new one and the short edge is not quite right, just a couple of mm nearer the bridge

I will experiment with a chisel on some scrap, but although I'm a novice, I have done a few bits and pieces that have been better with the router

It's part of a slooooooow build thread so I'll update there soon

 

The alternative if it is so small and you have no template is to judiciously sand slowly.

If you are sanding draw your line for uppermost, if you have a small enough straight edge pop that in the cavity to see where is not level,  and you can cover the Non level bits in pencil so you know you have sanded enough when it’s gone. Free hand rout is always an option if you fancy

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23 hours ago, Cuzzie said:

Honestly you won’t get the same result with that - minor adjustments are easier and neater with a well made template and router with the correct router bit

With a good template properly clamped into place and a good router and bit, I'd agree. Without all of the conditions being met, I'd prefer to use a really sharp chisel and take my time.

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7 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

With a good template properly clamped into place and a good router and bit, I'd agree. Without all of the conditions being met, I'd prefer to use a really sharp chisel and take my time.

Template doesn’t need to be clamped into place - pop some masking tape on the body and on the underside of the template,  then use super glue, gorilla glue dots on the tape on the body - line it up, press it into place - it’s secure enough. Each side of tape is removed after, no residue or damage.

After chiselling, even the most carefullest of people will have an uneven contour, which will likely require sanding after to make good and properly flat, not to mention that to successfully remove the wall chiselled bit, you will have to eat into the floor just a tad to avoid splintering, and then the floor is slightly uneven. Hopefully the finish on the body won’t chip or crack in the process. If you don’t mind slight flaws in that system, then yep - nowt wrong with either, but the router will be cleaner and more precise with the caveat the template is correct.

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