Stingray Classic bridge saddle issue

[AdamCarter]

Hi, I have been trying to lower the action on my Stingray but the screws for the E and A saddles do not screw as far down as the other 2 saddles and my action is suffering. I'm wondering if the previous owner had stripped the threads as this is my fourth Stingray and the first time I have been unable to screw through the saddles fully?

[Old Horse Murphy]

This seems to be a new feature of the bridge on the Stingray Specials. I found the same thing too and I know a number of owners have also. 

[PaulThePlug]

get some shorter ones from the 'bay...

i have just ordered soms A2 stainless set screws M3 12mm for the Ibby - as the standard cup point screws dont seem to sit in the bridge groove, so i went for Dog Point... £2 for 10.

'merican may be imperial ala Fender rather than metric

And by the sounds of it, are they fitted from underneath?

Edited June 14, 2020 by PaulThePlug

[RedVee]

I have a Classic and the same thing happened to me as the grub screws/saddles are useless. If you either raise them too high or too low the grub screws just strip. So if you are adjusting the height do it very slowly and when you feel some resistance stop because if you carry on the will surely strip. I had to get replacement saddles for my Classic so just be careful next time.

[Apothem]

This is the design of pre-EB bridges and bridges in general until 1988, then in 1989 the screws-through-saddles bridge has been introduced where the action can be set real low. And that's still the current design for normal Stingrays. That's why I have owned 2 pre-EB and 3 or 4 Classic Stingrays (hoping some of them allowed for lower action thanks to a shallower heel pocket or thicker neck heel) and I had to pass all of them on. I understand your dilemma, as I loved their sound. Now I have 2 1989 'Rays and the strings can be virtually sitting on the frets, although they are more aggressive and scooped in terms of sound (likely the strings-through-body design brings some mids out).

[acidbass]

A lot of Stingray owners employ the neck shim technique to avoid this issue. I still find it incredible that basses can pass QC like this

[ikay]

As Apothem says, it's all down to the hollow saddle which is only threaded in the lower half and has limited adjustability. Why MM decided to bring reintroduce this for the Classic and new Special is one of life's great mysteries. There was a good reason it was changed in 1989!

[drTStingray]

On 14 June 2020 at 20:41, AdamCarter said:

Hi, I have been trying to lower the action on my Stingray but the screws for the E and A saddles do not screw as far down as the other 2 saddles and my action is suffering. I'm wondering if the previous owner had stripped the threads as this is my fourth Stingray and the first time I have been unable to screw through the saddles fully?

You should email Ernie Ball Customer Services regarding the screws (or Strings and Things, their Uk distributor) - as I understand, they've sent the screws which adjust over the full length to other owners on request. 

That said, the hollow saddles have been around since 2010 (when the Stingray Classic was introduced). I think the shorter threaded screws are a new matter. 

As you probably know, it's best to get the relief right and adjust the curve of the fretboard/neck using the excellent truss rod wheel before trying to lower the saddles to the deck. You may find that does the trick. 

Ive managed to get the action on my Specials low enough (in combination with truss rod adjustment) to get a low enough action which doesn't compromise being able to play reasonably hard when wanted. I've never noticed this factor (shorter bridge saddle screws) on my Classic or Old Smoothie (also hollow saddles). 

Presumably the hollow saddles contribute something to the sound and resonance and also are lighter. 

Edited August 24, 2020 by drTStingray