donslow Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 So I have been painting a neck of late, couple of “why is this happening?” Queries later, all back to normal and looking great...until... I dropped the damn neck and it hit the floor headstock first! DAMMIT!! first inspection...bit of a paint chip but nothing more, no problem second inspection...the truss rod nut is about 10mm higher than it has ever been...oh dear... bright idea, Allen key in nut, couple of gentle taps with a hammer, and truss rod nut is back in its hidey hole! Great! Afterthought(s) should I have done that? Have I potentially damaged the truss rod by doing that? should I have consulted the BC gods before doing that? points to note... truss rod worked perfectly fine before I took the bass apart the drop was no more than about 2 feet and not an exceptionally heavy landing any thoughts / comments / slapping on the wrist very much welcome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarPig Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Photos will help 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donslow Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 Didn’t think of taking any but can take some “after I tapped it back down” pictures if that’s of any use?! im reasonably confident it’ll be alright As it SEEMS to be turning ok but without the body here I can’t really “test” it so to speak, there’s just a little niggle batting away in my head questioning ”should it have been as easy as that?!” Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigguy2017 Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Hmmm.... shouldn't happen like that. Could be the nut is completely slacked off and not threaded on the truss rod - that would allow it to slide out. Press / tap it back in and then get an allen key and tighten (CW) until you feel it tighten. Take a look along the neck for straightness / relief. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donslow Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 @Bigguy2017, thanks for that! Seems to be turning ok, need to get it all back together before I can tell if it’s working or not but will keep your suggestion in mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 It's probably perfectly fine, @donslow If it is a modern two-way rod, it is probable that it will have been laid in the slot with an end stop at the heel end before the capping strip and/or fretboard has been fitted. Usually, the rod will be tight enough in the slot to stay where it is but the rod is never glued in. Some builders pop a couple of spots of flexible filler in a couple of places to stop the possibility of it rattling, but it won't rattle once it is tensioned so many don't. So - it depends on the rod and the slot - in many cases an un-tensioned rod could theoretically move. And yes - if it does, you can just move it back until the other end hits the end stop. I have built a few necks, on specific request, where folks actually want the ability to pull the rod right out for replacement. All you have to do is basically build it without a headstock plate and have a longer trussrod cover and then grab the adjuster with some needle-nose pliers and pull! In fact, weren't the early Warwicks done like that? Anyway - it will have done no harm and you were right to just tap it back 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donslow Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said: It's probably perfectly fine, @donslow If it is a modern two-way rod, it is probable that it will have been laid in the slot with an end stop at the heel end before the capping strip and/or fretboard has been fitted. Usually, the rod will be tight enough in the slot to stay where it is but the rod is never glued in. Some builders pop a couple of spots of flexible filler in a couple of places to stop the possibility of it rattling, but it won't rattle once it is tensioned so many don't. So - it depends on the rod and the slot - in many cases an un-tensioned rod could theoretically move. And yes - if it does, you can just move it back until the other end hits the end stop. I have built a few necks, on specific request, where folks actually want the ability to pull the rod right out for replacement. All you have to do is basically build it without a headstock plate and have a longer trussrod cover and then grab the adjuster with some needle-nose pliers and pull! In fact, weren't the early Warwicks done like that? Anyway - it will have done no harm and you were right to just tap it back Much obliged for the input sir! Makes a lot of sense... I suspected it’d be alright but just wanted to double check, as I say, a few gentle taps and it went down until it could no more, seems to be turning now without any excessive force or looseness if it’s worth anything to help with your suggestion, it’s an Ibanez sr300 neck, if that makes any difference at all?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 3 hours ago, donslow said: Much obliged for the input sir! Makes a lot of sense... I suspected it’d be alright but just wanted to double check, as I say, a few gentle taps and it went down until it could no more, seems to be turning now without any excessive force or looseness if it’s worth anything to help with your suggestion, it’s an Ibanez sr300 neck, if that makes any difference at all?! I'm pretty sure that will be tickety-boo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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