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Recommendations for best cable to use with your bass?

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1 minute ago, Matt P said:

I'd suggest that learning how to properly coil the cables when not in use is the biggest factor in the lifetime of a cable, i have some of the cheapest Klotz cables that are getting on for 20 years old and are still working perfectly as they have been cared for.

^^^This

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Apparently expensive isn't always best

IMG_20200610_204815.jpg

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To be fair, coat hangers are solid wire so should produce a much better quality signal. 

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49 minutes ago, MacDaddy said:

Apparently expensive isn't always best

IMG_20200610_204815.jpg

To be fair I personally think the reason to buy quality cables is because they are robust rather than infinitesimal differences in sound quality.

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Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

To be fair, coat hangers are solid wire so should produce a much better quality signal. 

 

Only if they're oxygen free.

Edited by stevie
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So exactly what exhaustive scientific test are we talking about?

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5 hours ago, Matt P said:

I'd suggest that learning how to properly coil the cables when not in use is the biggest factor in the lifetime of a cable, i have some of the cheapest Klotz cables that are getting on for 20 years old and are still working perfectly as they have been cared for.

This ^^^

Hate to see cable being coiled up the way my mum used to do her washing line! Quality cables well looked after should last for years. ( I'm sure I'll have cables in my gig bag that are older than some of the people on this site ) 😁

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21 hours ago, Frank Blank said:

To be fair I personally think the reason to buy quality cables is because they are robust rather than infinitesimal differences in sound quality.

To do a proper A/B TEST you should use equipment of the subject whom is familiar with its sound also in this case playing his instrument. Any other method there will be to many variables and to call these scientific well......

As with my vehicle I drive daily I can tell when something doesn't sound or feel right, you could get 10 subjects whom have never driven my car and there is a good chance they would sense nothing wrong. So scientifically there is nothing wrong until the very slight whine I heard becomes a broken hub on my way to work.

I can clearly hear how an accessory[such as cable], new preamp/amp etc effects or not MY SYSTEM/RIG

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Posted (edited)
On 13/06/2020 at 13:52, Woodinblack said:

To be fair, coat hangers are solid wire so should produce a much better quality signal. 

Indeed. Whilst no fan of Monster and their business practices -  the comparison here is meaningless unless you somehow have a long flexible and electrically screened coathanger...but then it wouldn't be a coathanger would it ? 

Edited by rmorris

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It's not really that complicated: Electronically you want low capacitance cable with a semiconducting layer to reduce noise produced by handling/movement (more important for passive basses). And good screening - braid is probably best but not very flexible although some studio orientated cables use it as flexibility is likely to be less important than in a live situation (depending on the player obvs:-))

Braid over a foil screen is best in general but I've never seen that in a cable with the semiconducting layer. Practically spirally lapped shields are effective and give flexibility and double lapped shield (Reussen shield) with the spirals in opposite directions give better screening albeit with a slight reduction in flexibility.

Mechanically you want conductors thick enough that they aren't fragile so won't break.

For connectors - the Neutrik style cable collett strain relief is the best (other manufacturers may have equivalent) as it separates the strain relief function from electrical connectivity and basically doesn't rely on  bending a bit of metal to grip a cable but not so tight as to break it !

And then an outer jacket good enough to withstand the working environment .

Practically something like Klotz Instrument cable and Neutrik Connectors.

Also Sommer / Canare / Van Damme come to mind for cable.

OBBM seems to be the best source round these parts. I've found him very helpful previously.

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, rmorris said:

OBBM seems to be the best source round these parts. I've found him very helpful previously.

Although unfortunately now retired.

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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Frank Blank said:

Although unfortunately now retired.

Ahh - Okay. was a couple or more years ago that I got some HiCon connectors from him. 

Thanks for the heads up,

Anyway cable advice remains same- Go for quality but just don't get sucked into "audio magick hyperbole" !

Keep Safe

Edited by rmorris
typo
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So... I decided to get some bulletproof cables ready for the post-apocalyptic gigging season... whenever that is likely to be.

Thanks to this thread I've just ordered some designacables via Amazon... neutrik connectors and Van Damme cables, and a new mic cable for good luck. I already have neutrik loaded patch cables on my modest pedal board.

Now I have plenty of spares, plus my fancy Fender braided cable for home use.

Cheers for the advice!

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On 13/06/2020 at 14:39, stevie said:

 

Only if they're oxygen free.

I hope your tingue if firmly in your cheek there Stevie.

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I would echo most of what has been said on here except to say beware of fakes. I am sure that a lot of Neutrik ended cables use fake plugs and of course even Neutrik have expensive and cheaper ranges. I have jusr been given a trade acoount by Sommer and theit HiCon range is interesting. Especially the plugs designed to go with the Tricone XXL and Spirit LLC cables. HI-J63TC-SM I will be testing them soon

.

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On 26/05/2020 at 23:18, RedVee said:

I use Mogami Gold Cables,they are a bit pricey but boy are they worth it.

I've recently switched to Mogami for both my bass and amp speaker leads.  Perhaps a few pounds more than some other brands but far cheaper than anything by Tsunami, Evidence Audio, Vovox etc. 

Previously I used Planet Wave American Stage cables.  They were good too and come with a life time guarantee.

I've used designacable for speaker cables for my studio monitors, they don't get much abuse but seem to be well made, and were pretty good value too IIRC.

 

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Anyone using "locking" 1/4" jacks on their cables, if so what do you recommend? Or are folk generally just looping their lead around their straps to stop them yanking out mid set?

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9 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

Anyone using "locking" 1/4" jacks on their cables, if so what do you recommend? Or are folk generally just looping their lead around their straps to stop them yanking out mid set?

I use @obbm cables and loop up through strap if I’m not wireless.

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14 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

Anyone using "locking" 1/4" jacks on their cables, if so what do you recommend? Or are folk generally just looping their lead around their straps to stop them yanking out mid set?

Nah. Never seen the point. Anyone who has their cable coming out of the bass and going straight to the floor (if not wireless) deserves anything they get.

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When I get my EHB back from being replaced first thing I do will be to remove the locking jack. Really can't see any positive thing in them at all.

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Thanks gents - that's v helpful! Looping over the strap it is then! 

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While locking XLRs are fine, I've always found locking jacks to fiddly to unlock. Especially in a hurry.

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3 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

While locking XLRs are fine, I've always found locking jacks too fiddly to unlock. Especially in a hurry.

Yeah - and I guess I could see them damaging the jack socket on the bass, in any case, if they get yanked.

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34 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

While locking XLRs are fine, I've always found locking jacks to fiddly to unlock. Especially in a hurry.

The one on the EHB was impossible to undo with one hand, so it involved picking the bass up and turning it round to disconnect. Meaning you stand a chance of bashing it on something.

30 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

Yeah - and I guess I could see them damaging the jack socket on the bass, in any case, if they get yanked.

And what are you getting?

If your bass is connected to a jack plug, sitting on a stand to an amp, and someone trips over the lead, which would you prefer, the jack plug to be pulled out or the bass to be dragged across the stage. Or maybe the cable to be ripped out of the back of the plug? If the cable is pulled out of the bass, you can just put it back in.

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On 13/06/2020 at 14:39, Frank Blank said:

To be fair I personally think the reason to buy quality cables is because they are robust rather than infinitesimal differences in sound quality.

Hicon (sommer) have just introduced a new plug that has a special clamping mechanism. I have two coming on Tuesday with my order .I will report back next week.

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