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Trussrod Replacement


stewblack

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1 hour ago, 3below said:

Question: In view of the possible cracks (or finish cracks), would it be worthwhile running thin superglue (or one of the flexible superglues) in the bottom of the truss rod channel before other re-assembly starts.  Hopefully it would penetrate any serious cracks and stabilise them.  What are people's thoughts?

Can't do any harm, especially if it is thin superglue.  The very thin stuffs 'wicks' into tiny cracks, sucked in by capillary action and can do a great job of stabilising split woods.  I used it on my recent Yew guitar build to stabilise the knots.

For the gluing of the fretboard, Titebond is the recommended wood glue.  It is used by most guitar and bass builders.  Easy to apply and very, very strong when set.

Edited by Andyjr1515
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I always have superglue to hand, in fact I often struggle to put the bottle down. I will buy tight bond if it is superior stuff. 

Thank you as ever for shared wisdom. 

Edited by stewblack
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As I understand it Titebond can also be 'unglued' (heat, water/steam,alcohol but to name few).  Useful when 'blunders' need sorting (as I will soon do with a neck / fretboard I made).  IMO Avoid polyurethane glue in instrument builds, it makes repairs difficult if not impossible.

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4 hours ago, songofthewind said:

Stew, don't fret about the finish repair until you've got the board back on.

Then we can all have a butcher's at the result, and confer about what happens next.

This is a sensible course of action. 

@stewblack I assume you'll be looking at a repair which could be visible (but feel smooth) as opposed to a neck refinish to make as close to perfect as possible? 

Edited by Maude
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1 hour ago, stewblack said:

I always have superglue to hand, in fact I often struggle to put the bottle down. I will buy tight bond if it is superior stuff. 

Thank you as ever for shared wisdom. 

I have plenty of Titebond original here - you're welcome to have some 👍 clamps too, if you need them.

A little goes a long way, this bottle will last years!

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24 minutes ago, BreadBin said:

I have plenty of Titebond original here - you're welcome to have some 👍 clamps too, if you need them.

A little goes a long way, this bottle will last years!

Thank you very kind I'll give you a call. 

 

53 minutes ago, Maude said:

This is a sensible course of action. 

@stewblack I assume you'll be looking at a repair which could be visible (but feel smooth) as opposed to a neck refinish to make as close to perfect as possible? 

Absolutely, a repair is all I'm after not a complete refin

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36 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

IME Titebond will be too thick to be pulled into the cracks in the manner that Andyjr1515 describes, so you will need thin Superglue for stabilising the existing neck construction and Titebond for re-attaching the fingerboard.

Yes, that was my understanding too. 

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Update  time.

Trussrod arrived, wasn't any good for ice cream so I took it to the shed

P1090121.thumb.JPG.4dc4145da9c603fcb25f51c7f7ec9312.JPG

Softer and much fatter than I expected, no way that lot would fit so I took off the outer layers

P1090122.thumb.JPG.659e6273de170227ca4cd7035446ad7c.JPG

Ah, that's more like it.

As suggested I ran a thin line of superglue along my crack.

P1090126.thumb.JPG.9a94438b2c277b0a9ac3a0a28ceed642.JPG

And actually managed to put the bottle down again. Result.

However , Houston, we may have a problem. The rod is too long. I don't mean it sticks out either end of the bass just it sails past where the previos one ends. My guess is I'll be extending my groove, um,  man.

Intuition suggests I take out the wood from the body not the headstock but hey - what do I know? Maybe I nibble a bit of both.

P1090123.thumb.JPG.0fd7bea86966c13ca5fe67dc0857d79b.JPG

Close up? OK If the rod ends here

P1090124.thumb.JPG.e9a90d5c0e0a44b5ba887c44cf3787db.JPG

 

Then the other end is here

P1090125.thumb.JPG.b55c03966c601277d8cbfc8fba8c2131.JPG

Edited by stewblack
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4 minutes ago, Si600 said:

Does that end into the pickup cavity or is it just perspective? What does it look like if you push it out of the headstock?

Looks like that to me too.  Clearly, if it does, you don't want it interfering with the pickup.

If there is a clash, I would go the other way and have the adjuster further forward - you could probably extend the trussrod slot a touch depending on your trussrod cover or, if not, then just cut an allen key closer to the bend - it only need to be long enough to fit properly in the adjuster...

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7 minutes ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

If I were doing it, I would get another shorter truss rod. Anything done with that one will be a compromise - I don't see how one end could protrude into the pickup cavity and the other end would be too far down the adjustment slot. 

That was the short one

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