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Adjusting The Action


Hobbayne
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If you're happy with the relief then basically drop each string until you feel comfortable - everyone likes a different amount of 'clank' or 'buzz' so it's all about feel, if you ask me - I certainly wouldn't go by any numbers or measurements. 

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1 hour ago, Hobbayne said:

The action on one of my P basses is really high.

Can anyone recommend a good video on action adjustment?

The neck is straight so thats good.

If the neck is straight and doesn't need adjusting, just lower the saddles on the bridge. It is really that easy. Just find a screwdriver that fits. If you lower a string too much, then raise it. Generally with setting up a bass, if you do something wrong then you can always undo it. 

Some people are very set on a having a certain 'set' action height that they prefer, and take measurements when setting up. There are obviously benefits to this, however I do mine by feel, as some of my basses sound better with a higher action than others. If the action feels right 'in hand' then that is all I need.

Edited by thodrik
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4 minutes ago, ped said:

If you're happy with the relief then basically drop each string until you feel comfortable - everyone likes a different amount of 'clank' or 'buzz' so it's all about feel, if you ask me - I certainly wouldn't go by any numbers or measurements. 

Yes that's what I would probably do. But isn't there something about the neck radius and having each string follow the profile?

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1 minute ago, Hobbayne said:

Yes that's what I would probably do. But isn't there something about the neck radius and having each string follow the profile?

There is, but one size doesn't fit all. I always adjust and set up my basses to what feels right to me, and I'd advise anyone else do the same.

As mentioned, adjust the height of each saddle with a small Allen key so the string is at a height over the fret board that is right for you. Then you need to intonate each string which is done by turning each screw at the back of the bridge, once the string is in tune, then press down at the 12th fret, then adjust the saddle a little forward or backward until the string is in tune both open and at the 12th fret. Then you're done. 😃

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10 minutes ago, Hobbayne said:

Yes that's what I would probably do. But isn't there something about the neck radius and having each string follow the profile?

Like Hooky says, there can be but you don't need to follow it. You'll probably find that naturally yours will follow the profile anyway but for example I like my G string REALLY low and the D slightly higher so it's not uniform gam under each string (for me).

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Although by feel's fine, some folk prefer a 'recipe'. I use automotive feeler gauges and set the gap between 12th fret and string in millimeters as follows:

E 2.4, A 2.0, D 1.8, G 1.6

Depending on how good your fretboard is and what feels good you may have to raise or lower from this base measurement, but it is a start and a good compromise between low and high. 

 

Edited by lownote12
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I used the videos on the Elixir website to get a rough starting point and then took it from there.

Personally I think that it's important to measure your relief using a capo, feeler gauges and a straight edge to get actual measurements as once you know what you like it's a lot easier to set up your next bass than using your eye and doing it roughly. Most of us are guilty of GAS and don't want to spend too long setting up each bass as they come through the proverbial revolving door of gear.

This is something that I have only recently begun doing (this year) after 32 years of playing and setting things up roughly. I wish that I'd learned to do this years ago.

 

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23 hours ago, Delberthot said:

I used the videos on the Elixir website to get a rough starting point and then took it from there.

Personally I think that it's important to measure your relief using a capo, feeler gauges and a straight edge to get actual measurements as once you know what you like it's a lot easier to set up your next bass than using your eye and doing it roughly. Most of us are guilty of GAS and don't want to spend too long setting up each bass as they come through the proverbial revolving door of gear.

This is something that I have only recently begun doing (this year) after 32 years of playing and setting things up roughly. I wish that I'd learned to do this years ago.

 

I agree. It’s all part of owning an instrument. When you read some of the comments on here you’d think setting up a guitar is a black art? Plus the amount of times I here guys complaining about the set up they’ve just paid for not being right. Crazy.

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On 10/12/2019 at 12:23, Hobbayne said:

Yes that's what I would probably do. But isn't there something about the neck radius and having each string follow the profile?

Get sone radius guages

find the one that matches your board, then set up your outer strings at desired height

then raise middle strings to follow  radius gauge, which sits against those outer strings 

 

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8 minutes ago, mentalextra said:

When you read some of the comments on here you’d think setting up a guitar is a black art?

Some people get too anal about everything being precise measurement's.

Whenever I set up a bass I do a simple set up, adjust relief, adjust saddle height, intonate and then adjust pickup height when plugged into an amp. Really easy to do - I'm not a dark art practitioner! 😎

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15 minutes ago, Geek99 said:

Get sone radius guages

find the one that matches your board, then set up your outer strings at desired height

then raise middle strings to follow  radius gauge, which sits against those outer strings 

 

I've found that ideal on my Precision but not on the Jazz. I have had to raise the G & E strings so that they are level with the pickups otherwise those strings were a lot louder than the other 2. The Precision pickup can be adjusted to suit the radius but not the Jazz and I didn't want to go down the road of raised A&D poles or fully adjustable poles as I really like the sound of the stock pickups

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