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Active basses, jack in/jack out?


NancyJohnson

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I know it's easy to unplug the lead but at a gig once sound checked, and between sets, I'd rather just flick a switch and leave everything connected. I'm fairly OCD with the routing of my cables so no risk of anyone tripping over them. 

It's fairly irrelevant for me anyway because at the moment I either gig my passive Rick or my Variax which is powered up the cable, but just saying. 

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6 hours ago, NancyJohnson said:

Didn't someone come up with having an interior rechargeable battery?  You just had something like a phone charger but it had a 1/4" jack on the end, plug it in et viola battery charged.

Fishman Fluence pickups have this option, but I think the batteries are built into rear cavity plates.

 

very clever, but only for certain guitar models At the mo I believe.

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Connect your battery via a toaster timer switch..... Give the dial a twist at the start of each song and then you've got 5 minutes before the battery automatically disconnects itself. :D

Obviously not suitable for metal, or any other genres with songs longer than 5 minutes!

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22 hours ago, NancyJohnson said:

Just a quickie.  If you leave an active bass plugged in 24/7, is there any evidence this will this cause the 9v battery to drain?

Does the jack plug create a circuit that is always on or does something in the circuit just cut out, deactivating it?

 

Certainly does on my Jack V, even if the active is switched off.

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I’ve been playing my sandberg today and you don’t have to unplug it all the way to save the battery,    it has a 2 click jack socket, the first click disconnects the battery but  the lead stays plugged in , and the second click takes the lead right out .

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21 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

I’ve been playing my sandberg today and you don’t have to unplug it all the way to save the battery,    it has a 2 click jack socket, the first click disconnects the battery but  the lead stays plugged in , and the second click takes the lead right out .

Do you mean a stereo jack like on most of all other active basses ?

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1 hour ago, stoo said:

Connect your battery via a toaster timer switch..... Give the dial a twist at the start of each song and then you've got 5 minutes before the battery automatically disconnects itself. :D

Obviously not suitable for metal, or any other genres with songs longer than 5 minutes!

This^^^^^^^^^! 😄

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I change batteries on my active basses annually when I put fresh strings on. The old battery goes in the smoke detector and serves flawlessly for another year (so far, only been doing this for two decades). I get the batteries from Lidl, 2 for €1,84. Never failed.

From soundcheck to breakdown the bass is plugged in, also during rehearsal, 4 hours every week. Unplugged at home unless I'm practicing.

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44 minutes ago, Bolo said:

I change batteries on my active basses annually when I put fresh strings on. The old battery goes in the smoke detector and serves flawlessly for another year (so far, only been doing this for two decades). I get the batteries from Lidl, 2 for €1,84. Never failed.

True bass-a-holic.

Puts his sound before his personal safety...

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8 hours ago, DJpullchord said:

What you need is a little wind turbine on the headstock. Position yourself near the drummer’s fan and hey presto.

Silly suggestion, whereas a solar panel incorporated into the bass headstock, placed seperately on the stage or on even top of the amp would solve this issue completely. This would harvest light from amp 'on' switches, audience camera phones, stage lighting displays and the audience  holding up lighters ( do they still do that?). Surprised no-one has thought of this before....

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19 hours ago, Hellzero said:

The new Warwick Masterpiece basses also have a rechargeable battery inside.

 

All the Master Built and Custom Shop bases come set up for an actual battery and a rechargeable battery which you connect via a lead to a USB socket

Came as a surprise when my Custom Shop bass turned up a couple of years back - I'd missed the bit on the website announcing this, and the Custom Shop itself didn't mention it when I was placing an order.  Not being as environmentally friendly as some people, it took a little bit of fannying about to get the electrics connected to the right battery (it runs off one or the other and you have to wire it up to the one you want) - my main issue being that there doesn't seem to be any way to tell how charged the internal battery is, and i know it'll give out half way through a rehearsal or gig if I try to use it

They also carve out an extra cavity for it, and I'd have preferred not to have that done

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9 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Inspired me to order a pair of USB-rechargeable PP3 batteries off eBay.

 

LINK PLS! are they the same actulol volts though? An alkaline PP3 is 6 AAA batteries or sutin, so the chemistry is 1.5V * 6 = 9V

The boring rechargies are usually a 1.2V chemistry so you'd need 7.5 batteries to hit a real 9V

Lipos are 3.9V are they? so anyway, they all fall out at different nominal numbers of voltsies and I don't know how much guitars really care... "insert all the stuff about batteries affecting the tones in pedals or whatever"

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29 minutes ago, caitlin said:

LINK PLS! are they the same actulol volts though? An alkaline PP3 is 6 AAA batteries or sutin, so the chemistry is 1.5V * 6 = 9V

The boring rechargies are usually a 1.2V chemistry so you'd need 7.5 batteries to hit a real 9V

Lipos are 3.9V are they? so anyway, they all fall out at different nominal numbers of voltsies and I don't know how much guitars really care... "insert all the stuff about batteries affecting the tones in pedals or whatever"

Don't know the theory about this, but did read that the 1.2V was specifically chosen so as to compensate for the rechargeable batteries' ability to produce a high Amperage. This is done so the Wattage remains roughly the same.
I'm sure I'm using the terms amateuristically here, and likely wrong, but also guess that one gets the idea.

From what I read, you then wouldn't need 7.5 batteries normally speaking. Though: some gear indeed specifically demands one type, and the manual then warns against using the other.

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50 minutes ago, BassTractor said:

Don't know the theory about this, but did read that the 1.2V was specifically chosen so as to compensate for the rechargeable batteries' ability to produce a high Amperage. T

No, it's a result of the chemistry. The (9v NIMH cells use 7 cells to give 8.4V as an approximation to 9V)

The original zinc carbon cells had six nominal 1.5V cells, but they typically drop to about 6V before most applications give up.

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