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Cutting Pickguard Sheets


Sardonicus

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I was thinking about doing this too, and did a big of googling on the subject. It turns out it isn’t that easy, but with patience you can do a decent job with a hacksaw type blade. Full disclosure – I ended up getting one made by https://www.originalscratchplates.com/ and it’s good, if pricey compared to buying the blank. If you are going to do it, check out some YouTube clips and maybe have a few practices on a spare/broken pickguard first. One thing I do remember finding out is that power tools run the risk of overheating the material so hand cutting, although tedious, is probably better for a one-off job.

Good luck – I’d be interested to hear how you get on if you do try it.

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24 minutes ago, b7l4s said:

I was thinking about doing this too, and did a big of googling on the subject. It turns out it isn’t that easy, but with patience you can do a decent job with a hacksaw type blade. Full disclosure – I ended up getting one made by https://www.originalscratchplates.com/ and it’s good, if pricey compared to buying the blank. If you are going to do it, check out some YouTube clips and maybe have a few practices on a spare/broken pickguard first. One thing I do remember finding out is that power tools run the risk of overheating the material so hand cutting, although tedious, is probably better for a one-off job.

 

Good luck – I’d be interested to hear how you get on if you do try it.

 

I'm tempted to go down the `hand cutting' route as I'm keen to keep the costs down, once I've done it I'll post something.

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I'd suggest using a fine-toothed blade.  I use an old table-top scroll saw and it works fine, I've also used a hand-held electric jigsaw with no problems. Also had good results from a small (1/4") template router bit for cutting out the pickup holes - I made the one you can see on my avatar pic. I finished the edges with and sanding block and sandpaper.

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Outline, you could use an electric jigsaw. However, for pickup holes, it may be an idea to use a coping saw or similar fine toothed saw after having made a hold first.

I've "made" a few scratchplates in the past, with varied success, using a Dremel and a Jigsaw. The best results were achieved with the Jigsaw, however, I made an derrière of the pickup hole, which was a real shame. The Jigsaw is that little bit too big for the pickup hole, and a Dremel is just not right for the job.

Most important thing to remember is to take your time, and realize that you may need to make multiple scratchplates before you're happy.

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  • 4 weeks later...

In the late 80s I 'converted' a lefty Shergold Marathon to right handed and needed a scratchplate to cover where the control knobs had been. Just got a sheet of black acrylic and used a hand jewellers saw (basically a coping saw really) and free cut a shaped plate (free cut because I couldn't work out how to draw on black acrylic at the time). 

I suppose I could have just used the existing scratchplate and just left holes where the knobs had been but I was trying to be all creative, so tried for an eagle landing on the pickup (cough) - yeah, I dunno why either!
Ignoring the fact that someone told me they though it was meant to be an armadillo, I'll swallow my pride and upload this very old low res photo to demonstrate that if you ever change your mind Big Rich, you can get fairly complicated shapes if careful. Think I then used a nail file to bevel the edges.
But it becomes a chore to keep the ensuing dust traps clean if you do (ah well, at least it makes the 'armadillo' easier to see)
 

Shergold_Marathon scratchplate.jpg

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Very impressed with your bevels, @Meddle!

I've made a few with results I'm happy with, but tend to lose my nerve at the edge-finishing stage for fear of ruining hours of work. I either trace the shape from the original, or make a stiff paper template to trace from if it's an original/modified design. Rough shape's cut out using a scroll saw & then hand-filed to finish. I round the edges to make them look less straight-cut, will have to work on bevelling technique though.

sbvplate.thumb.jpg.d2540a234fc3dbc911bc4e34cbc75195.jpg

RV4_001.thumb.jpg.e1b74db3428badf44b91e5696a6bb2f1.jpg

Not completely happy with the tasteful Rick copy attempt - don't think the black pearloid works, and the shape ended up being a bit too Mosrite-y, which wasn't my intent. I don't like the standard Rick shape plate, which looks like a lazy afterthought to me, so I wanted something that followed the lines of the body shape a bit more.

I actually simplified my original design which would have had the plastic curving behind and through the neck pickup, and extending in a point up to the top horn, mirroring the shape at the lower horn. I intend to re-do this in white pearl, and instead of rounding the corner under the bridge, bringing that  up to a point, a bit like the very first Rick 4000 design.

Edited by Bassassin
ham-fisted typnig (sic)
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I make scratch plates for my Tele mule from thin polystyrene sheet off of eBay. In the style of early Fender plates made from Garolite, with no bevel, just  softly rounded so as not to catch my delicate little paws.

It is very easy shape with Stanley blades and fine abrasive papers. The only problem is its flexibility, which means screw holes have to be big enough to avoid imposing flex forces. Plus it picks up a lot of gunk from fingers. 

Ease of working is important for me in the absence of workspace and tools.

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