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owen

The slowest build ever

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13 hours ago, owen said:

The lathe option would give a certain line which there is no way I could get with hand tools, but the by PM and various posts I am beginning to think the hand tool thing might be a go-er.

Thanks everyone for their willingness to guide. I am going to buy some really big paper.

The other (lesser) trouble with the lathe thing is it would work well as a disk but not as a guitar shaped thing, the curves would be a lot deeper at the neck and bridge than anywhere else. That does raise the possibility of using a very high bridge and having the neck following the approximate line where it joins the body so that the body actually wrapped around you. A bit like an angled neck done to extremes,  which is right up my street

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I think I am over the lathe thing (even though it was exciting), but I could make a bowl will a flat bottom which only curved at the extreme edges.

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8 minutes ago, owen said:

I think I am over the lathe thing (even though it was exciting), but I could make a bowl will a flat bottom which only curved at the extreme edges.

I'll shut up :laugh1:

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14 hours ago, owen said:

The lathe option would give a certain line which there is no way I could get with hand tools, but the by PM and various posts I am beginning to think the hand tool thing might be a go-er.

Thanks everyone for their willingness to guide. I am going to buy some really big paper.

You know me - I LOVE challenging the conventional way of doing things.  And I LOVE the idea of a huge piece of wood belting round on a large wood lathe being crafted by a skilled carver.  And I AM intrigued with what could be done with that concept.

But I don't think it's the right option for a first bass build.

And I think @Christine is right, I'm pretty sure the geometry would be completely wrong for a bass.

And I don't fancy shaking hands with a prosthetic arm next time we meet at the Midlands Bass Bash (however good prosthetic arms are nowadays) :D

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19 hours ago, owen said:

but that would be de-railing my own thread!

It wouldn't be the first time that's happened 😉

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If I am going super curved I will need an extra thick body blank, no?

I was going with sonic blue but realised that might well need a whte-ish scratchplate to offset it. I am thinking maybe copper leaf cos ....... umm.......... shiny. 

Edited by owen
Spelling. As usual :(

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Draw it out, that will give you a better idea of how thick your blank needs to be. If you go super curved you will need to make the concave back very deep, will that be comfortable? Or leave it heavy or hollow, perhaps @Andyjr1515 has more informed advice than me here

You could mix some white with the blue to pale it off a little to make it not need a scratchplate?

I wonder if copper leaf would act as shielding?

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4 hours ago, Christine said:

Draw it out, that will give you a better idea of how thick your blank needs to be. If you go super curved you will need to make the concave back very deep, will that be comfortable? Or leave it heavy or hollow, perhaps @Andyjr1515 has more informed advice than me here

As @Christine says, for any own design, it is pretty essential to draw it out - preferably full-size - to check the geometry, work out the cable runs, etc and make sure, for example, that top chambers and cutaways don't clash with back chambers and cutaways ;)

Hand sketch is often all it needs.

 

Ref the blank thickness - as always, there are a few ways of tackling this.

In broad terms, then yes, @owen - the more dramatic the curve, then the more the overall depth of the body becomes.  So if you were carving out of solid, for a given thickness of body, then it would need to be deeper by the difference in these two distances:

1296083139_Blanksize6.jpg.26601c50cc4a845f45406c5ab9a301d4.jpg

There are some disadvantages in carving from solid - mainly relating to the difficulty in getting the control wire and pickup wire channels in the right place and also the cost of thicker pieces of timber - but it is entirely feasible.

If you are carving this kind of depth, by the way, then you probably will need to hog out the concave with something other than micro-planes ;)

 

If multi-piece blanks are OK for you, then one option is to have two blanks - either of the same timber or of differing timbers:

1103405198_Blanksize3.jpg.9221897e2b42570471b8b19e682a5988.jpg

 

 Or, to reduce the amount of hogging out and resulting waste of wood, you could use a depth equivalent of through-neck wings at the back (and clearly, triangular section wings would be even more efficient):

791290688_Blanksize4.jpg.7ed05c0a7e8c61824c78f0996a5b2beb.jpg

 

 

In my lightweight builds, I use a variation of this and go for a through neck and take that concept one stage further by using more standard through-neck wings, but deeper than the neck (which is shown in blue here):

1515159711_Blanksize5.jpg.f8184f7d44e2f011c7273808c0c18487.jpg

 

So to conclude, there are many ways of skinning the cat (although they all feel much the same to the cat...)

 

 

 

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Again, thanks everyone for humouring me :)

I have bought special long paper and a presentation board to tape it onto. I have a 3B pencil and a rubber. I am almost certain I have a long straight edge in the garage. I am on fire!

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6 hours ago, owen said:

Again, thanks everyone for humouring me :)

I have bought special long paper and a presentation board to tape it onto. I have a 3B pencil and a rubber. I am almost certain I have a long straight edge in the garage. I am on fire!

I presume this will be finished for us to try at the Midlands Bass Bash next year......

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The plans? Possibly. But I cannot guarantee that. Have you noticed the thread title?

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