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Prejazzion Bass


Slappindabass
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When milling it's when you feed the workpiece in the same direction as the rotation of the cutter. The teeth of the cutter drag the material rather than cutting into it. It can be useful if you're only taking light cuts as it means you can cut both ways, but there's the risk that the cutter with catch, pull your half finished part out of the vice and fling it across the workshop.

I'm assuming that the same thing can happen with wood if you cut in the same direction as the router rotates.

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10 hours ago, Si600 said:

When milling it's when you feed the workpiece in the same direction as the rotation of the cutter. The teeth of the cutter drag the material rather than cutting into it. It can be useful if you're only taking light cuts as it means you can cut both ways, but there's the risk that the cutter with catch, pull your half finished part out of the vice and fling it across the workshop.

I'm assuming that the same thing can happen with wood if you cut in the same direction as the router rotates.

With wood it is opposite; a milling machine has a vice and a sliding table that can hold the work securely but with wood either the work or the machine is being held in someone's hands. You feed the thing your holding so the cutter tips cut into it and exit where there is still wood to be removed. Excuse the rubbish diagram but like this, the other way is dangerous1729628298_cutdirection.jpg.2d1f6584826c4885148b74b9315a0a58.jpg

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28 minutes ago, Slappindabass said:

Geat pics thanks. I guess the only bit that was worrying me is the large horn. But with the dual bearing bit on the new 4 flute bit i guess I can just turn it upside down so I can still route right to left.

Just keep feeding it in the right directionand if the work ends up behind the cutter then you'll be feeding left to right but that is fine because the feed orientation will be the same.

Keep the workpiece firmly held down and tight against either the pin or the router bearing. That will minimize vibration and vibration is the source of all evil in wood machining. If you must stop pull the wood away from the cutter then lead back in from the cut edge to prevent burns to the workpiece. It's a lot easier to do than explain. Right direction, shallow cuts and a firm grip and you'll not need too much sanding afterwards

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On 02/08/2019 at 20:58, Si600 said:

Downhill, known to @SpondonBassed and others as climb milling 😉. Can make a horrible mess if it goes wrong.

 

 

Milling and routing have a lot in common but there are differences.

The main difference being that milling is performed on metals as a rule.  They are usually consistent in their micro-structure.

With routing, it's usually timber and there there are many inconsistencies.  You have a grain to start with.  Other inconsistencies like knots can cause difficulty too.

Different cutters behave in different ways.  Blunt cutters are dangerous.  A good way of getting your hand in, as they say, is trial and error with a scrap pieces of timber the same as your workpiece.  Also, rehearse your planned cut in your mind while observing where you may have difficulties getting around your workpiece.  You'll avoid making too many scorch marks when you do the cut for real.

It is good to have a variety of different clamping methods on hand too.  Sometimes a clamping solution will foul your router's path around the template, especially where there are complex curves.  In these cases, take care to support the workpiece securely against the forces that your router is going to subject it to and make a series of cuts, re-positioning and clamping where necessary.

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Good points and bad points.....

 

So glad I decided to do a practise one..soooo.

 

 

I still have all my fingers

I am still pleased with it

But had a bit of break out. My own fault the first one was the very first touch, didnt have the router going fast enough, second was where Ithink I may have made contact with the bit a bit to heavily . Still...got a feel for it and a bit of confidence. May have a go at the ash soon.

 

 

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53 minutes ago, Slappindabass said:

I still have all my fingers

I am still pleased with it

But had a bit of break out. My own fault the first one was the very first touch, didnt have the router going fast enough, second was where Ithink I may have made contact with the bit a bit to heavily . Still...got a feel for it and a bit of confidence. May have a go at the ash soon.

20190807_173348.jpg

 

 

Wise to practice. When did that damage happen, to me that looks like where you fed the wood into the cutter, am I right?

It probably has nothing to do with speed but vibration. If you fed in there you would have been cutting against the grain and also without any support for the cutter as the wood fed in. Next time feed in first where the grain runs exactly sideways like at the side of the body. You'll find that more forgiving to feed in on without causing any damage, after that keep the jig/body in firm contact with both the guide bearing/pin and the router table body to minimise any vibration. Slowly and smoothly, never force it and shallow cuts.

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Respect! 😎 Great to see someone having a proper go at something brand new to them, it all looks great so far, and as usual, some expert tips being chipped in by the usual regulars.

Some great purchases for little money too 🤩

You'll not be short of excellent advice on here  👍

 

What's your fancy, painted or natural finish?

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Having made a bass body last year I can offer this advice...

learn from the best on here.

you may end up spending as long making your router templates as the rest of the bass, especially the neck one and the radius. Test test and test. Cheap pine is fine for that as you don’t need to test it to any great depth....

drill out as much as you can you are using the router for the edges.

triple check you’ve locked the height of the router. 

 

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