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mcnach

Best way to reglue/hold peeling vinyl covering on BAREFACED cabs?

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Just now, Al Krow said:

Split that over all Barefaced cab owners and we'll be good 😂

20,000 might not be enough...

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1 minute ago, scrumpymike said:

20,000 might not be enough...

now, now... 😂

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Ok, this thread inspired me to take out the kit Alex sent me to repair the cabinet. 

Here it is before:

A7F29BAA-CCCD-4BAE-9611-3E162E3CB6E2.jpeg

78F5F1D5-E9E0-4D76-80C5-45ED8CAF87CA.jpeg

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Here is what the glue looks like heated up after being in hot water, and then applied to under the seams (with the inevitable overspill):

 

5696BC2D-299A-4741-AA9E-0DBE98A81DDB.jpeg

5E361529-7D72-4FD3-A6BB-4D1315917B1E.jpeg

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All joking aside, has this issue since been resolved on the newer cabs? I'd like to try a Four10 in the future but I must admit as a current user of a Super Twin and having owned several other models over the years, I personally would prefer them to be coated as the other cabs are instead of vinyl covered.

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Posted (edited)

And then here is the finished result:

 

B8BF93A9-7093-48D7-9377-CF1221979999.jpeg

7C7B33C1-9047-4014-8547-338DFAA6E12D.jpeg

Edited by funkle
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Posted (edited)

On the whole, it is better, but it’s not back to stock. I have some comments that may inform other people having a shot with this. 

1. The glue needs to stay hot to be spreadable. However, once applied, it can be heated by being rubbed again, and it then is very malleable. 

2. You have to keep rubbing the seams to get the stiff edges of the tolex to go down. I did a lot of this, but I still got a middling result. If I had the guts, I might have taken an iron to the upraised seam edges...with a wet tea towel to cover them. 

3. The glue comes off easily with water and some elbow grease. So overspill is no problem. 

I think I got an ok result, but I’m not that impressed. The biggest barrier to a good result is how stiff the existing seams are, and how they want to stick out, even after hot glue applied and loads of rubbing. Like I said, I’d probably take an iron to it next time...lol. 

Pete

Edited by funkle
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The cab still sounds great though. I can fully recommend it from that point of view. But perhaps there are other solutions than using the glue kit for this fix, I don’t know. 

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51 minutes ago, funkle said:

2. You have to keep rubbing the seams to get the stiff edges of the tolex to go down. I did a lot of this, but I still got a middling result. If I had the guts, I might have taken an iron to the upraised seam edges...with a wet tea towel to cover them.

Probably a good idea as you have to soften the old glue soaked into the back of the tolex.

I'd also peel the tolex back to get a bigger new surface to spread the glue on.

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I noticed the other day that after leaving cabs in the boot of a hot car on a sunny day the glue started to soften a bit, this allowed me to press the edges of the peeling tolex back on and they have stayed put.

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2 hours ago, Deedee said:

All joking aside, has this issue since been resolved on the newer cabs? I'd like to try a Four10 in the future but I must admit as a current user of a Super Twin and having owned several other models over the years, I personally would prefer them to be coated as the other cabs are instead of vinyl covered.

I've owned a six10 from new for the past 2 and a bit years. I leave it in hot cars and stages and don't particularly baby it. No issues regarding the tolex or anything else for that matter. 

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2 minutes ago, Jonse said:

I've owned a six10 from new for the past 2 and a bit years. I leave it in hot cars and stages and don't particularly baby it. No issues regarding the tolex or anything else for that matter. 

Nice one, thanks. 👍

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If anything started peeling on mine I'd get a can of spray adhesive with the long straw-like attachment and go to work, leaving some sort of weight on it overnight to make sure it sticks flat. 

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The other issue that's been touched on above is what (if any) prep you should do to the previously bonded surfaces to maximise your chances of a decent repair.  In my experience, you would normally clean the old stuff off and maybe roughen the surface of the wood before you start again.  Ideally we need to know whether the old adhesive was water-based or solvent-based.

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Posted (edited)
13 minutes ago, scrumpymike said:

The other issue that's been touched on above is what (if any) prep you should do to the previously bonded surfaces to maximise your chances of a decent repair.  In my experience, you would normally clean the old stuff off and maybe roughen the surface of the wood before you start again.  Ideally we need to know whether the old adhesive was water-based or solvent-based.

This is a great point, as per @Stub Mandrel also. The instructions that come with the kit don’t really talk about prep of the surfaces to be glued. I think the old adhesive must be water based. Certainly the new one is...

The instructions that Alex kindly provides make it sound pretty simple. But I think it’s probably more of a job than I had understood. 

Edited by funkle

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8 hours ago, Happy Jack said:

While you're at it, McNach, have you tightened the handle and the feet?

:lol:

 

Do you really want me to reply? 

Yawn.

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4 hours ago, funkle said:

On the whole, it is better, but it’s not back to stock. I have some comments that may inform other people having a shot with this. 

1. The glue needs to stay hot to be spreadable. However, once applied, it can be heated by being rubbed again, and it then is very malleable. 

2. You have to keep rubbing the seams to get the stiff edges of the tolex to go down. I did a lot of this, but I still got a middling result. If I had the guts, I might have taken an iron to the upraised seam edges...with a wet tea towel to cover them. 

3. The glue comes off easily with water and some elbow grease. So overspill is no problem. 

I think I got an ok result, but I’m not that impressed. The biggest barrier to a good result is how stiff the existing seams are, and how they want to stick out, even after hot glue applied and loads of rubbing. Like I said, I’d probably take an iron to it next time...lol. 

Pete

 

It doesn't look all that promising to me, then... (sigh)

 

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1 hour ago, funkle said:

This is a great point, as per @Stub Mandrel also. The instructions that come with the kit don’t really talk about prep of the surfaces to be glued. I think the old adhesive must be water based. Certainly the new one is...

The instructions that Alex kindly provides make it sound pretty simple. But I think it’s probably more of a job than I had understood. 

 

I'm getting that feeling too. The kind of thing that is simple enough to look easy to anyone who deals with this kind of thing routinely, but offputting enough for someone like me who just want to make noise with the thing...

Warming up the existing glue looks like a must, if it works the same way as the new glue. 

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The result above is much better...but still, it might be worth the team at BF speaking to someone like Marshall or another UK manufacturer for some tolex advice. The guitar cabs do seem like a massive step up.

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1 hour ago, Musicman20 said:

The result above is much better...but still, it might be worth the team at BF speaking to someone like Marshall or another UK manufacturer for some tolex advice. The guitar cabs do seem like a massive step up.

Why would a competitor give away manufacturing know how?

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I’m sure BF know what they’re doing, it seems to have been a small hiccup on early models, and not an issue any more. They are a small company and will improve all the time, I’m sure they’ve taken this on-board

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12 hours ago, Jonse said:

I've owned a six10 from new for the past 2 and a bit years. I leave it in hot cars and stages and don't particularly baby it. No issues regarding the tolex or anything else for that matter. 

Conversely I know a guy who used one on a long gig and the heat from the amp melted the tolex and stuck the rubber feet to the cab 🤦‍♂️

Not a particularly hot amp either and it had no issues on his other, tolex covered, cabs. 

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2 hours ago, molan said:

Conversely I know a guy who used one on a long gig and the heat from the amp melted the tolex and stuck the rubber feet to the cab 🤦‍♂️

Not a particularly hot amp either and it had no issues on his other, tolex covered, cabs. 

That sounds pretty incredible. What amp was he using, and where was the gig?

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