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Andyjr1515

Psilos Phoenix Dreadnought Acoustic

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Back to the acoustic.  The purfling round the rosette is done.  I will be inlaying a swift into the rosette over the next few days - this is just a paper template - and also scraping and sanding the purfling flush.

Went a bit mad on the purfling this time ;)

 

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Normal stuff with installing the swift -

jewellers saw:

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Dremel with precision router base:

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Epoxy mixed with wood dust:

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The slightly ragged edges and black dots round the purfling will disappear with the final sanding, but this is broadly what it will look like:

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15 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Epoxy mixed with wood dust:

I'm so glad it's not just me but that is still some accurate routing. It's not quite so easy to hide small gaps on paler timbers as it is on the black I use

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And out comes the Go-bar rig again, but this time with the 25 foot radius dish.

Lots of careful marking out of the bracing positions and then the all-important X-braces are glued in place first, with the radiused bottoms pressing the top into its spherical shape:

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It maybe one of those urban myths, but that little hardwood stiffener across the X brace joint is said to make a significant difference to the tone...

There's a clip somewhere with a demo of without one and then with one subsequently fitted which is fascinating.  I'll try and find it. 

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Well, this is probably as far as I dare go:

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It will be a little while before I glue the top on so might have a further tweak but, as I said earlier, I don't really know how far to go - or where - so it's probably best leave it hereabouts.

There is a great video here - the first 30 minutes is theory but skip to 31:29 and he demos tapping it at his starting point and then progressively as he mods the braces:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ei5-DkVTrEE

 

The slightly sobering thing is that I finish, soundwise, basically where he starts!  :lol:

But, I think this is probably pretty much where my previous build was when I halted further tweaking so, hopefully, it will sound the same when it's finished...which was, after all, the purpose of the exercise.

The only bit that completely escapes me (and did on the last build) is the flex on the bass side he talks about.  I've seen other folks wobble it like an Australian whatever-it's-called showing how flexible it is.  I do the same thing and it's as stiff as the proverbial board!

 

Anyway, I'll pick it up in an hour or so and give a tap and, if it's as good as I'm going to get it, then get on with the exiting bit - gluing the top to the sides :)

 

Edited by Andyjr1515
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Final bit of tidying up before gluing the top on, but that's enough for one day.

The top is basically ready to fit.  The dark centre line, by the way, will disappear at the final sanding which won't be done until the back is on and the binding too.

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It's when you build the next one, you remember the things you meant to do after the last one.

"I must buy or make some more spool clamps" I NOW remember saying and remembered at the all-important dry-run (there are things you don't want to be messing around with - such as setting the clamp heights - when the glue is on and drying!)

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But it is quite close fitting so, rather than wait a few days for extras to arrive, I reverted to my previous compromise of using tape to keep the pressure on the in-between bits.  Based on the additional squeeze-out, it's probably OK.

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Edited by Andyjr1515
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7 minutes ago, Christine said:

It's amazing how much pressure tape can put on something like that with a good stretch

It is!

I have also the glass-reinforced tape that is often used for binding and you can break the wood quicker than snap the tape! 

However, on this particular job the spruce top wood is so soft grained that it is too easy for the fairly rigorous sticky on that tape to bring the top surface of the wood with it when trying to remove it.  I find the 3M masking tape much safer.

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3M is good tape, I've had a lot of success with the last lot of tape I bought, green stuff called Frogtape but tape is a subject for discussion in itself

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If you're worried about taking wood off with the tape you might try  going over it with a hair dryer to  soften the sticky. I  find it works a treat! 

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