DR Strings

[dmccombe7]

I've done the 5 and 6 string basses but just find the 4's more comfortable for what i'm doing but as Chris_b says if you spend a bit of time with a good 5 stringer you soon adapt to it. I'm able to swap between 4, 5 and 6. 

I normally only use the 5 or 6 stringers for studio work when asked but i need to spend a couple of days beforehand to get a feel for them if its a tricky bassline i need to do.

Initially you'll find yourself missing the occasional note or even string until you get the hang of it but that's natural at first. Once you've been used to it you can easily swap between 4 and 5 strings like many bassists do. I just don't play them very often these days.

Dave

[Cuzzie]

I done a 5

Didnt find it too much bother within a week or so of playing it, used the B string when I had to, could swap back and forth fine between it and a 4

Just don’t need the B string, much prefer Drop d, or actually Drop d half step down - that’s where I love living

Edited April 16, 2019 by Cuzzie

[Cuzzie]

To my mind the thing that takes longer to adjust to is playing a 12 string (4 courses - 2 octaves) because of fretting and plucking/striking adjustments

[dmccombe7]

Had a twin neck Shergold with 4 and 8 string necks around late 70's Was Shergolds first 8 string. They adapted their 6 string bass to an 8 for me. Great bass but very heavy for a teenager at 9st. 

I'm probably a bit like you in that i don't need a 5 string for what i'm playing at the moment so i'm happier with a 4.

Dave 

[Cuzzie]

Yeah - part of it with a 5er was a proof of concept, bargain quality bass (Sandberg of course), PJ config (VT) as well as a try out. Having a Hamer 12 string helped as getting used to the neck size was less of an issue.

It went to a happy home to someone who always uses a 5er and is a Mate down the road from me, so everyone is happy.

Sometimes I drop C tune the bass as well, so much fun

[BigRedX]

A voice of dissent.

I haven't found a set of DR bass strings that I like, and I've tried pretty much all of them. Lo-Riders which from the descriptions and the reviews of people on here should have been the ones for me were underwhelming to say the least, and the others I tried were even worse.

Just to say that DR despite the hype are not to solution for everyone.

[Cuzzie]

Yup may not be for you -but for a massive amount of people they are

‘but despite the hype’ is the wrong phrase - normally that is for something that is flash in the pan, or something that glitters but is not gold, or a turd rolled in glitter - I think they have a bit more pedigree than that

 

Edited April 16, 2019 by Cuzzie
Font size differences not meant!

[dmccombe7]

14 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

A voice of dissent.

I haven't found a set of DR bass strings that I like, and I've tried pretty much all of them. Lo-Riders which from the descriptions and the reviews of people on here should have been the ones for me were underwhelming to say the least, and the others I tried were even worse.

Just to say that DR despite the hype are not to solution for everyone.

Think they make good strings but a bit over-rated for the additional cost. 

I've gone back to Fender nickel strings at half the price of the D'addarios i had been using for several years and they seem to be doing pretty good.

Just bought a Sandberg which came with steels and oddly enough they feel really good.

Out of curiosity what strings are you using at the moment ?

Dave

[BigRedX]

14 minutes ago, dmccombe7 said:

Out of curiosity what strings are you using at the moment ?

LaBella Steels and Warwick Black Labels for my 5-string basses.

Newtone Axion Custom Works for my Bass VIs.

[LukeFRC]

2 hours ago, BigRedX said:

LaBella Steels and Warwick Black Labels for my 5-string basses.

Newtone Axion Custom Works for my Bass VIs.

I was about to say that Newtone are my go too if I can’t find cheap fatbeams. 

[countjodius]

6 hours ago, Slappindabass said:

So what are the higher tension Drs? I really did find the black beauties far too floppy!

Lo Riders are the highest tension DRs as far as I know.

[Soledad]

6 hours ago, Slappindabass said:

So what are the higher tension Drs?

Interesting, frustrating that very few makers publish string tensions. D'Addario do, DR don't seem to, don't think LaBella do, Rotosound don't but I was told the other day they soon will do (on their web).
I reckon tension is absolutely as important and useful as gauge, in fact gauge alone doesn't tell you much as it's the core that gives the tension.
Come on string makers, give us the basic info we need. It's quite easy to blow 200 quid on 5 sets of bass strings, just looking for the perfect set.

[BigRedX]

1 hour ago, countjodius said:

Lo Riders are the highest tension DRs as far as I know.

And they felt too floppy to me compared with LaBella Steels or Warwick Black Labels.

[BigRedX]

1 hour ago, Soledad said:

Interesting, frustrating that very few makers publish string tensions. D'Addario do, DR don't seem to, don't think LaBella do, Rotosound don't but I was told the other day they soon will do (on their web).
I reckon tension is absolutely as important and useful as gauge, in fact gauge alone doesn't tell you much as it's the core that gives the tension.
Come on string makers, give us the basic info we need. It's quite easy to blow 200 quid on 5 sets of bass strings, just looking for the perfect set.

The problem is that tension only tells part of the picture. Compliance which is governed by factors both in the string and the way it is fitted to the instrument is equally important.

[Soledad]

4 hours ago, BigRedX said:

The problem is that tension only tells part of the picture. Compliance which is governed by factors both in the string and the way it is fitted to the instrument is equally important.

Fine, I appreciate the string's ability to flex is important, but tension is a really simple bit of info and it is useful to many. If I could know gauge and tension it will tell me a lot more than I'm usually allowed to know. I'd say the way the string is fitted is something of a fixed for any given bass - through body, angle onto nut, nut material... we can get down to a load of variables but I think tension is such a basic and easy to provide by the makers.

[mcnach]

13 hours ago, Cuzzie said:

I done a 5

Didnt find it too much bother within a week or so of playing it, used the B string when I had to, could swap back and forth fine between it and a 4

Just don’t need the B string, much prefer Drop d, or actually Drop d half step down - that’s where I love living

 

In my case, I also found that with the right bass it was not hard to adapt (a Lakland 5502 for me, wide string spacing help making it feel natural), but I had a couple of basses a *really* liked, and they were 4 strings. Playing the 5er meant not using my favourite basses... and I didn't have a real need for a 5 string... so I let it go. I use drop D at times too, but the best thing about the 5 string bass is that it allows you to move sideways to reach many notes, and you don't have to move up/down the neck as much as with a 4 string. 5 string basses make sense even if you don't use the extra lower notes... But I don't see myself switching until I come across a 5 string bass that I enjoy as much as my Stingray 4-string...

[mcnach]

13 hours ago, BigRedX said:

A voice of dissent.

I haven't found a set of DR bass strings that I like, and I've tried pretty much all of them. Lo-Riders which from the descriptions and the reviews of people on here should have been the ones for me were underwhelming to say the least, and the others I tried were even worse.

Just to say that DR despite the hype are not to solution for everyone.

 

Nothing ever is a solution for everyone, of course.

[mcnach]

12 hours ago, dmccombe7 said:

Think they make good strings but a bit over-rated for the additional cost. 

 

 

Additional cost to us. In the US of A they are not that pricey. Spending $19 on a set of Fat Beams is not exactly a hardship. In the UK, it's a different matter, of course. I still buy them because everytime I find something else that seems promising as a substitute, it leaves me disappointed. Considering I probably keep a set for 9 months to a year, I'd rather buy what I know I like even if I spend £10 or even £20 more. 

[LukeFRC]

7 hours ago, mcnach said:

 

Additional cost to us. In the US of A they are not that pricey. Spending $19 on a set of Fat Beams is not exactly a hardship. In the UK, it's a different matter, of course. I still buy them because everytime I find something else that seems promising as a substitute, it leaves me disappointed. Considering I probably keep a set for 9 months to a year, I'd rather buy what I know I like even if I spend £10 or even £20 more. 

Jose have you tried the round core newtone? They are the closest I’ve found that are different but similar feel and tone 

[BigRedX]

7 hours ago, mcnach said:

Nothing ever is a solution for everyone, of course.

No, but I rarely see any criticism of DR strings (other than the price), so I felt it was only fair to point out that not everyone who tried them had a positive result, and maybe save the OP from a potential expensive mistake.

[BigRedX]

36 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

Jose have you tried the round core newtone? They are the closest I’ve found that are different but similar feel and tone 

How to you get on with fitting the Newtone round core strings since you are not supposed to cut them before winding them onto the machine head posts?

[LukeFRC]

Just now, BigRedX said:

How to you get on with fitting the Newtone round core strings since you are not supposed to cut them before winding them onto the machine head posts?

I just followed the DR advice and used the bend before the cut that you need to on round core strings. Rebel me - mainly as I don't think I read the instructions! 

[mcnach]

1 hour ago, LukeFRC said:

Jose have you tried the round core newtone? They are the closest I’ve found that are different but similar feel and tone 

 

No, I haven't YET. 

The comparisons with my favourite Fat Beams make them attractive and I like that they're a UK brand too. It's on my list for strings to try in the very near future.

 

[mcnach]

48 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

No, but I rarely see any criticism of DR strings (other than the price), so I felt it was only fair to point out that not everyone who tried them had a positive result, and maybe save the OP from a potential expensive mistake.

 

I guess that's fair.

Before I bought my first set I was actually concerned as I had read issues with dead strings in new packets etc, although DR seemed prompt to replace them.

I only moved to DR because a bass I bought used came with a set of strings that I really liked. I always removed strings from basses I buy and put my own, but this one was really nice. I had to start one of those "what strings are these?" threads and the consensus came to Fat Beams. I bought a set... and the rest is history.

I wouldn't say there's a 'hype' about them, just very many happy users. But you're right, they won't necessarily suit everyone. However it's hard to find out without going ahead and trying them.

 

[mcnach]

50 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

I just followed the DR advice and used the bend before the cut that you need to on round core strings. Rebel me - mainly as I don't think I read the instructions! 

 

I don't do anything like that... am I supposed to?

I roughly measure, cut, insert in post, THEN bend and wind. No issues so far but maybe I'll change my ways just in case...