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Streamliner 900 volume issue.


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Ok, I use a streamliner 900 and 2 x Barefaced gen 2 compacts,. I had very low volume using the amp and one cab for rehearsal. So, started with guitar itself, had it serviced by a pro. came back great. changed instrument and speakon cables. tried  other basses, still same issue. Spoke to Jeff Genzler via email, he suggested checking out valves. so, after giving pots a bit of a squirt with WD40, and swapping around valves, same issue. He then suggested replacing valves, which I did with a matching set of cryo valves from Watford valves. 

Next rehearsal with our admittedly loud guitarists playing just through their fold-back monitors, I struggled to match their volume. only way I could was with gain button in, gain at about 9 o'clock and both volume switched at full. Any ideas? Jeff said I could return it to the states for them to look at, bit extreme really. 

 

 

 

 

 

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I use the Streamliner with a 4x10 for most gigs and a Barefaced BBT for smaller settings, great amp!  I always have the gain switch active even with the 4x10. I've never tried a 2 cab set up, but can say that the single BBT does struggle with full drumkit and guitar at times.  Although I did use a current gen Compact recently which was much more capable on it's own.  Valve-wise I have a JJ 5751 first followed by 2 JJ 12ax7s. 

I've read elsewhere that the valve mounting plate can be damaged by using too much force to push the pins in whilst replacing them, so maybe this could have happened if all valves are in working condition, and you're confident in the power-handling of the Compacts?  Other more electronics-savvy folk might have some other suggestions!

 

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I have exactly that rig for rehearsals and small gigs - Streamliner 900 and BF Compact 110. Never needed to take the master volume past 9 o'clock, and that includes work with a big band featuring at least a dozen horns. Haven't ever had any issues with volume; but then I don't play with rock guitarists.

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Sorry, but I'm afraid I have some bad news for you here. The WD-40 is one of the substances that I have confirmed through lab testing will damage your pots and will also migrate over the surface of the high voltage PCB and can cause additional problems there. WD-40 has no business inside ANY amp, especially one with high voltages present.

Yes, I handle the factory authorized service for your amp here in the states, but by doing what you have to your amp, the cost will increase well beyond the simple flat rate charge that it would otherwise cost because I won't touch it without replacing all the pots and removing and properly cleaning the high voltage PCB of residue. Because of this, I think your otherwise economical to repair amp is probably going to cost more than you can get a good used one for once shipping is involved. 

Why won't I repair it without doing the additional work? Because the repair won't be stable enough for me to have confidence that there won't be additional problems cause by the WD-40 down the road. Sending the amp back for the additional repairs would be impractical, and I don't want there to be bad feelings that could have been otherwise prevented.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 04/03/2019 at 17:13, agedhorse said:

Sorry, but I'm afraid I have some bad news for you here. The WD-40 is one of the substances that I have confirmed through lab testing will damage your pots and will also migrate over the surface of the high voltage PCB and can cause additional problems there. WD-40 has no business inside ANY amp, especially one with high voltages present.

Yes, I handle the factory authorized service for your amp here in the states, but by doing what you have to your amp, the cost will increase well beyond the simple flat rate charge that it would otherwise cost because I won't touch it without replacing all the pots and removing and properly cleaning the high voltage PCB of residue. Because of this, I think your otherwise economical to repair amp is probably going to cost more than you can get a good used one for once shipping is involved. 

Why won't I repair it without doing the additional work? Because the repair won't be stable enough for me to have confidence that there won't be additional problems cause by the WD-40 down the road. Sending the amp back for the additional repairs would be impractical, and I don't want there to be bad feelings that could have been otherwise prevented.

Makes total sense. I remember when the Shuttles were extremely popular and you guys at Genz said please don't use WD40 in this way! I never will after that advice.

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One "trick" that is mentioned repeatedly in the repairs and technical section is to plug a jack or lead repeatedly in the effects loop sockets, (both send and return). A squirt of switch cleaner on the jack first is even better. 

Apparently the effects loop sockets can oxidise over time causing exactly the problem you describe.

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As soon as I read WD40 I thought you must've meant Servisol or similar switch cleaner! As previously stated WD40 doesn't belong near any musical equipment other than possibly on cab castors bearings. It's a Water Dispersant and wont cure any sensitive electronics issues I've heard of. You might be really lucky and it hasn't penetrated anywhere it can cause further harm. If possible I would try and remove as much as possible before it does.

If your guitarists are really loud you probably need more speaker anyhow, so use both cabs.

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