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Finished Pics! Andyjr1515 meets his Nemesis?


Andyjr1515

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Casting.  I can't believe @Andyjr1515 isn't going that route.  Make up a negative form using the body wood and the neck, fill with resin and voila.  Once it's cured then neck will fit perfectly, the resin will have taken on the grain from the form and it'll just need painting and fitting the hardware.

 

What could possibly go wrong? :crazy:

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Ah...may have hit my first snag.  There are options so not the end of the world, but maybe a rethink in terms of the 'Walnut top and back' approach...   Or maybe I can design the issue out.

When I was visualising the back and top from the same planks, I was banking on the shorter lower horn making space for the  solid upper horn:

_MG_7024smaller.thumb.jpg.99545e94bfd76993d06ae2c758f0bbbb.jpg

But I was thinking 'normal' configuration where the top has a cutaway for the neck pocket

Just now, drawing the back:

1006526416_image858copy.thumb.jpg.e8174a6a59b9bc9eefa9c959cf967b70.jpg

...I'm remembering that, to fillet underneath the neck, both the top and the back go beyond the centre-line.  So - as pictured - it's not going to fit.

I'm going to get the planks out and see how much leeway I actually have.  This is a shorter body than the 'P' I used for the original chalk marks, so it MIGHT just fit.

Plan B, if it doesn't quite fit but misses by just a tiny bit is to shorten the body length a tiny bit more

Plan C, if it doesn't fit by a lot, is to use a different wood for the back.  I've actually got some of the same Sapele as I used on the back of @scrumpymike 's build so it wouldn't be the end of the world:

_MG_4014.thumb.JPG.fce98238f199aab6daff7137f401fad8.JPG

 

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Well - as it happens, every challenge is an opportunity :)

First of all, checking the walnut against a full-size template, by just shortening the bass by 1/2", which wouldn't change the look at all, I can actually fit it all on... :

Top

_MG_7702.thumb.JPG.7518352c77c9e9043dcb1a6033d365fb.JPG

Back

_MG_7703.thumb.JPG.8188c931bedeac36eaf6b6364eadcd9b.JPG

 

But in the PM discussions with @fleabag, we kicked around Plan C in any case and...

 

..we're going for it :)

A Sapele back - still with the purpleheart in between - means I can widen the rear bout to P bass size (which @fleabag would prefer) and the difference between the two widths of the top to the back gives me scope for a 'sucked lozenge' carve between the two.

It has every chance of looking fabulous ;)

Oh...and this has just arrived :)

_MG_7704.thumb.JPG.9b7cf8949307891ced1e7d76464a273d.JPG

Call me presumptuous,  but I reckon that could be a neck and bridge :)

  

 

Edited by Andyjr1515
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11 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Well - as it happens, every challenge is an opportunity :)

First of all, checking the walnut against a full-size template, by just shortening the bass by 1/2", which wouldn't change the look at all, I can actually fit it all on... :

Top

_MG_7702.thumb.JPG.7518352c77c9e9043dcb1a6033d365fb.JPG

Back

_MG_7703.thumb.JPG.8188c931bedeac36eaf6b6364eadcd9b.JPG

 

But in the PM discussions with @fleabag, we kicked around Plan C in any case and...

 

..we're going for it :)

A Sapele back - still with the purpleheart in between - means I can widen the rear bout to P bass size (which @fleabag would prefer) and the difference between the two widths of the top to the back gives me scope for a 'sucked lozenge' carve between the two.

It has every chance of looking fabulous ;)

Oh...and this has just arrived :)

_MG_7704.thumb.JPG.9b7cf8949307891ced1e7d76464a273d.JPG

Call me presumptuous,  but I reckon that could be a neck and bridge :)

  

 

Nah - that's the cigar your marvellous wife has ordered for you to celebrate your various No Treble successes (we can always hope, right!)

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8 minutes ago, Daz39 said:

Nah - that's the cigar your marvellous wife has ordered for you to celebrate your various No Treble successes (we can always hope, right!)

I think 'Close, but no cigar' springs to mind. 

Or, considering this is MrsAndyjr1515 we are talking about, 'Not a chance....and DEFINITELY no cigar!!!!'    

 

 

:lol:

 

Alfred

(just in case...)

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17 minutes ago, fleabag said:

Decided to take the laptop to the hospital - didnt wanna miss it all :)

Looking sumptuous

Now that's dedication!

Well, I reckon your instincts about the Sapele back are right, @fleabag  The extra width we can get on that rear bout will balance up the look beautifully.  Nice neck, by the way :)

_MG_7705.thumb.JPG.48b576135451682eff283f9ac319d7c2.JPG

_MG_7706.thumb.JPG.bf7405b3d634653f4cd277a4f08510eb.JPG

 

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Someone has already raised the question of how this sort of joint will affect truss rod adjustment.  I think I see it more as how will truss rod adjustment affect the extended butt joint.  Is it to be bonded other than with the four screws?  I'm guessing not.  That suggests a gap may appear over time toward the end of the upper bout join.

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4 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

Someone has already raised the question of how this sort of joint will affect truss rod adjustment.  I think I see it more as how will truss rod adjustment affect the extended butt joint.  Is it to be bonded other than with the four screws?  I'm guessing not.  That suggests a gap may appear over time toward the end of the upper bout join.

Ah...that assumes that I'm clever enough not to have a gap in the first place! 9_9

Ref the specific point, if I base it on my experiment with the guitar neck, the actual distance from the end of the flat heel to where the top horn will come to is not very long.  Bear in mind that the relief at the centre of a properly adjusted neck is miniscule, then the movement for an inch just past the heel will be a small fraction of miniscule.  Almost certainly smaller than my building tolerances capability ;)

Or put more simply...I think that's the least of my problems.... xD

 

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7 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Well - as it happens, every challenge is an opportunity :)

First of all, checking the walnut against a full-size template, by just shortening the bass by 1/2", which wouldn't change the look at all, I can actually fit it all on... :

Top

_MG_7702.thumb.JPG.7518352c77c9e9043dcb1a6033d365fb.JPG

Back

_MG_7703.thumb.JPG.8188c931bedeac36eaf6b6364eadcd9b.JPG

 

But in the PM discussions with @fleabag, we kicked around Plan C in any case and...

 

..we're going for it :)

A Sapele back - still with the purpleheart in between - means I can widen the rear bout to P bass size (which @fleabag would prefer) and the difference between the two widths of the top to the back gives me scope for a 'sucked lozenge' carve between the two.

It has every chance of looking fabulous ;)

Oh...and this has just arrived :)

_MG_7704.thumb.JPG.9b7cf8949307891ced1e7d76464a273d.JPG

Call me presumptuous,  but I reckon that could be a neck and bridge     :sun_bespectacled:

  

 

Actually it's a bridge and a neck.  Try to keep up .  :sun_bespectacled:

If you wondering why the bidge isnt inside the main parcel ...

Yup, smoked too much jazz cabbage again

Edited by fleabag
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1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Ah...that assumes that I'm clever enough not to have a gap in the first place! 9_9

Ref the specific point, if I base it on my experiment with the guitar neck, the actual distance from the end of the flat heel to where the top horn will come to is not very long.  Bear in mind that the relief at the centre of a properly adjusted neck is miniscule, then the movement for an inch just past the heel will be a small fraction of miniscule.  Almost certainly smaller than my building tolerances capability ;)

Or put more simply...I think that's the least of my problems.... xD

 

Just put a screw in it.... ;)

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