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SGC Nanyo re-build


TheGreek

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A bit of a Greek saga already - but what else would you expect from me??

 

Some time ago I bought this from eBay:

https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/330153-heavily-customised-nanyo-bass/

For "heavily customised" read "butchered".

s-l1600.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

Seller, in the Manchester area, was adamant (not the Adam Ant, obviously) he would not courier so I contacted BCer, and all round good guy, @AndyTravis to assist in the purchase and he, kindly, took possession on my behalf and held it while I tried to negotiate a new (originally planned a concave semi hollow) body with an extremely busy @Andyjr1515. Unfortunately Eude's beautiful 6er and "another Swift Lite bass" builds meant that any start would have to be delayed till the New Year.

However before he could make a start another body became available from @Chimike. Basically an empty Nanyo body which had the the front and back planed off. Mike, being the top fella that he is, refused to take anything in payment and I became the owner a couple of weeks ago. In that time I managed to acquire a sheet of Rosewood veneer from eBay:

s-l1600.jpg

In trying to remove the remaining paint from the body from @Chimike I discovered it is immune to paint stripper and put up a fight when I used the heat gun. Paint now removed but in doing so I created a couple of cracks by drying out the body in the process. Pics to follow tomorrow.

Click forward to this morning when the first "heavily customised" bass arrived from Mr Travis. You know what they say.. "Forewarned is forearmed" so I set about removing the (indestructible) paint from the neck using heat gun, Stanley blade scraper and a bit more care. Considering the "customisation" of the body, the neck was in surprisingly good condition. Again pics to follow. I didn't appreciate that the quality of wood used on the SGC necks - now sanded and with a wipe-over with some Orange Oil. I'll eventually be using the same finish as @Andyjr1515 uses on most of his builds - after raiding some of his previous build threads for advice - before installing the standard SGC Gotoh machine heads.

Next move is to repair the splits - need to borrow some sash clamps (in reality, will probably call in a favour from a friend) - before preparing the body for the veneer. Whilst awaiting the repaired body I'll need to salvage the electronics from the original body ready to transfer to the replacement.

So the first chapter of this saga is well on it's way....more to follow.

Thanks to @AndyTravis, @Chimike and @Andyjr1515 for their roles in the saga so far..

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  • 2 weeks later...
29 minutes ago, TheGreek said:

So in removing the paint the body acquired a split and a crack. Need to borrow a couple of sash clamps before moving forward.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

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I’ve got many clamps in my joinery shop which you’re welcome to borrow , but it may be difficult to clamp at that angle, it may be easier to lay the body on a board and screw some blocks around it and glue and wedge the split piece back into position 🙂

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@Reggaebass Thanks for the offer, but I have a couple of options available to me before I throw myself at the BC collective for help.

The first is my younger brother who's a few miles up the road but is generally busy with his own projects. I need to get hold of him when he isn't busy.

One of my nephews lent me some weird looking clamps which didn't do the job. He works for Leibherr Cranes - they have clamps to build mega ton chassis - hoping that he'll be able to take the body to work with him along with a pot of PVA glue.

Edited by TheGreek
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1 minute ago, TheGreek said:

@Reggaebass Thansk for the offer, but I have a couple of options available to me.

The first is my younger brother who's a few miles up the road but is generally busy with his own projects. I need to get hold of him when he isn't busy.

One of my nephews lent me some weird looking clamps which didn't do the job. He works for Leibherr Cranes - they have some clamps to build 4 ton chassis - hoping that he'll be able to take the body to work with him along with a pot of PVA glue.

They are there if you need them , good luck with your build 🙂

 

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The crack at the end of the horn is no concern.  It is just a split against a join line.

The one that is closer to the neck pocket is an odd one.  Maybe the neck's been whacked in the past and the bottom of the pocket stressed causing the split?

If I'm right, this is the one you need to concentrate on otherwise the neck pocket could flex and affect the tuning stability. 

Once you've worked out the best way of clamping this, I would be tempted to use a very thin superglue and wick it into the gaps.  Capilliary action will suck the glue deep into the gap.  Keep squeezing glue in until it won't take any more then clamp up and leave for an hour or two.  It should then be plenty strong enough so you would just use a filler to cover the dips and gaps.

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  • 1 month later...

The de-separation on the split is being more stubborn than at first thought. My nephew had it glued and clamped without any success. Going to remove the offending part and rejoin it using biscuits. Basstool isn't having this problem with his build..

image.jpeg

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On 09/02/2019 at 19:05, TheGreek said:

The de-separation on the split is being more stubborn than at first thought. My nephew had it glued and clamped without any success. Going to remove the offending part and rejoin it using biscuits. Basstool isn't having this problem with his build..

image.jpeg

😲 Oh dear Mick! That's a scary looking split...

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  • 3 months later...

No skill, no tools, no idea....but I started a new job recently so will have some money.

In cases like this, you turn to those who really know what they're doing...enter right @Andyjr1515 in whom I have the upmost respect and confidence....hopefully he'll keep us updated as he progresses.

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Well, received it all in the post this afternoon - two bodies, one neck, a full roll of veneer AND a fairly heavyweight gig bag...all in an IMPOSSIBLY small parcel.  @TheGreek maybe struggling a bit with the Nanyo save but he sure is no slouch when it comes to packing things well! :D

It all looks good, certainly in terms of no unexpected surprises so far.  I will have a closer look and a deep ponder over the weekend on the best way to go about it and then probably start on it early next week :)

 

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OK

Had a close look at the components that @TheGreek sent to me to assess whether there were likely to be any nasties in there.  And, overall, it's pretty good news.  Other than I haven't yet checked whether the truss rod adjusts OK, here are the key points in the assessment:

 

This is the body I'm going to be working on:

_MG_8658.thumb.JPG.1ca2b590421b18d2d11cfc5b5a92a0bd.JPG

 Mick has already done some gluing and clamping on the main cracks at the lower horn side of the neck pocket and that looks pretty structurally sound now:

_MG_8668.thumb.JPG.32b8145c36f0c81934ee6ed2a3617643.JPG 

You can see on this shot also the residue of whatever impossibly tough bottom poly coat makers like Ibanez - and clearly from this, SGC also - put on their bodies.  It's tough to get off, but it will come off :)

The loose horn tip is actually missing 3mm or so and so I will probably fit and carve a new horn end altogether.  I will probably use wood from the donor body Mick also sent:

_MG_8657.thumb.JPG.bf3c960d66c98d957daa5c613cfce828.JPG

That is also missing its original tip shape, but the timber is likely be the same species so I will cut an oversize piece of wood with the right grain direction, fit it and then carve it to the correct Nanyo shape. 

What about the mismatch you ask?  Well - as I spotted on the donor - the tip always was different.  You can see on both the donor one and the recipient one below the join line which would have continued across the horn tip - and is probably what failed with whatever major drop the bass received that broke the other joints.  You can see also in this shot the extra few mm missing on the horn:

Picture1.jpg.eeeb532c11959ee5b349e461bd5b6973.jpg

 

The active electrics will come from the donor body also:

_MG_8672.thumb.JPG.8bb786193d401a4b934c8642a7fafe03.JPG

I'm certain these are all originals, based on the corrosion on the pot spindles, etc (see front view at the top) but - certainly from tap tests on the two pickup covers - it all works fine, including no obvious crackling from any of the pots...which is, frankly, remarkable.

The neck pocket is a beautiful fit.  Fender....please note! :

_MG_8659.thumb.JPG.983b71557ac604acaa60ff03b0c230f8.JPG

 

Structurally, the pocket  looks completely sound where it matters.  The damage was to the side of the pocket, and not the main strength-bearing zones.  You can see in this shot some more poly undercover in the relief carve:

_MG_8669.thumb.JPG.bbf54a37db9772fe1da33a2e4d8402dd.JPG 

 

 

There are other splits which I will secure by wicking very thin CA glue into the gaps, such as this one.  The objective is basically to stop it spreading:

_MG_8667.thumb.JPG.ab03a30bee4fe848a92c8fcafba01f94.JPG

 

So far, in summary I cannot see anything at all that would make getting this to full playable condition and it looking decent to boot! :)

I will be spending much of the rest of the day sanding the body down to fresh wood and then re-assess.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Andyjr1515
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Well, it's taken most of the morning, but this doesn't look bad at all, does it ;)

_MG_8674.thumb.JPG.afe4ebc725a191e8b555d70f66632ed1.JPG

_MG_8675.thumb.JPG.eacf587e95c34dcc15ce8d9469a3779f.JPG

 

And @TheGreek 's concern whether the main cracks were fixed OK?  :

_MG_8676.thumb.JPG.67d5ad68f104d99407578814132d380c.JPG

Looks pretty good to me.  Like in the "if you didn't know where the cracks were, you wouldn't know where the cracks were" sense of the words...

Good job, Mick.

Stripping this all down to the wood also confirms that there is nothing structural that is of any concern.

Next job is probably butchering the donor body for a bit of wood with the right grain pattern to fit and carve at the end of the lower horn :).  But first I'm going to have a cup of tea and a sandwich ;) 

Andy

 

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And the donor has donated!

 _MG_8685.thumb.JPG.88e584fa3cf2062c07d9b89f9ab90673.JPG

And why that particular piece?

It's a tip I learnt from somewhere (maybe even here) to not only look for a piece where the grain spacing is similar and in line, but also - if you are then going to carve it - where the cross section grain pattern is similar.  Here is the piece I've chosen:

_MG_8684.thumb.JPG.d0bddf70a032127dc19f477c6b8166c2.JPG

See how the grain spacing is similar, but also similar annular ring direction and spacing so when the carve cuts across all of that, the basic grain pattern should at least look credible.

It does appear, also, to be very similar colour and density of wood - useful to avoid any finish darkening or lightening the tip differentially to the rest of the body.

Next job will test my skills - getting two totally flat surfaces at the joining faces!

Edited by Andyjr1515
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