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Ampeg stack help


Paddy515
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Having played two practices and two gigs with my recently aquired SVT 2 non-pro coupled with an SVT 115 Classic 8 ohm cab and EITHER an Eden David 210 (8 ohm) made at/by Marshall in the UK OR with a Bill Fitzmaurice designed 112 cab (also 8 ohm) containing a high quality driver ( Eminence 3012HO kappalite). Not happy with either combination to be honest. Would I be best to find another SVT115 to match my existing one, or go for either an Ampeg 210, 112 or 212 (if yes, which one?)to give me a better chance of finding my "sound"? Any second cab needs to be an 8 ohm one to run at 4 ohms combined. Ive even run the 210 with the 112 and like that combo even less!! Any advice will be greatfully recieved. Thanks all.

Edited by Paddy515
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How does it sound with the individual cabs? 

Generally, mixing brands doesn't go down to well - not to say it can't be big and powerful, but the Eden, B.F. and Ampeg cabs were not design to work together - add unto that you have mixed driver sizes; again, it may sound good doing this it may not. I use a Trace 2x10 and a 15". Works well because these cabs were designed to work together. 

I think the key to your next move would be to decide what cab and amp combo you like, then add another one of those. If you go the Ampeg route, make the models are matched if you go the route of the 12s or 10s. Safest bet would be a matching 15; but if you're not a big fan of the SVT + 15 as is then you may not like this either! 

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1 hour ago, Microbass said:

How does it sound with the individual cabs? 

Generally, mixing brands doesn't go down to well - not to say it can't be big and powerful, but the Eden, B.F. and Ampeg cabs were not design to work together - add unto that you have mixed driver sizes; again, it may sound good doing this it may not. I use a Trace 2x10 and a 15". Works well because these cabs were designed to work together. 

I think the key to your next move would be to decide what cab and amp combo you like, then add another one of those. If you go the Ampeg route, make the models are matched if you go the route of the 12s or 10s. Safest bet would be a matching 15; but if you're not a big fan of the SVT + 15 as is then you may not like this either! 

I cant drive just one cab as they are all 8 ohm and the head will only run at 2 or 4 ohms, thats why I have to run two cabs together. The best tones come from running the SVT115 together with the 112 ( really have the Eden 210 to sit on top of my Eden Metro combo to give me 4 x 10" stack) but Im sure the tones could be better with the addition of another Ampeg cab of some sort. Seems running 2  x 115 SVT Classics may well be the best way forward.

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I bought a new Ampeg BA-110V2 40W bass combo (60 degree kickback) for only $200. Something about the small 10" speaker and 40W rms. Beautiful Ampeg tone. And lighter than my Classic head alone, never mid the 810E cab.

I placed it under my desk, pointing up at me. I can't imagine a better practice amp, (and I have an Ampeg Rocket combo). Now I can get great bass tone as I play along with my CD's without shaking down the house. If I knew musicians, I could take it to their place, it's so light to carry.

I'm not selling gear. But I'd be interested in what others think. All I have to do now is mic it through a PA for live performance. But who wants to see an old man gig...?   

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Paddy515 said:

Would I be best to find another SVT115 to match my existing one, or go for either an Ampeg 210, 112 or 212 (if yes, which one?)to give me a better chance of finding my "sound"? 

Totally depends on what 'your sound' is Paddy. There's a fair few myths and rule about cabs and tone. The myths are just that and many of the rules are there to be broken. The used market is full of serious bargains at the moment, and there's a fair chance that you'll get your money back selling any cab you buy but don't like, so i If I were you I'd just keep experimenting. 

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5 hours ago, Paddy515 said:

I cant drive just one cab as they are all 8 ohm and the head will only run at 2 or 4 ohms, thats why I have to run two cabs together.

This is only partially true, because the impedance is not constant. You can put nearly any speaker to the output as long as you drive it with relatively low power. Keep the volume at 9 or 10 o'clock max and try every speaker one at a time and then in pairs. Remember to turn off the amp before changing the speaker. Level volume and try every possible configuration. Keep the impedance selector at 4. If the amp starts to become too hot, turn down the volume and let it cool down.

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You can totally mix speakers, but that's not what matters here, what matters is that you dont much care for sounds that those cabinets make when they're mixed. Everything else is kind of academic really. I'd either pick the cab you like the best and buy another or sell all 3 for a nice 4R cab.

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37 minutes ago, Jack said:

You can totally mix speakers, but that's not what matters here, what matters is that you dont much care for sounds that those cabinets make when they're mixed. Everything else is kind of academic really. I'd either pick the cab you like the best and buy another or sell all 3 for a nice 4R cab.

4 Ohm cab?

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First time i've heard of an amp that doesn't do 8ohm. 

Just checked the manual on the Mesa Mpulse 600 i just bought and manual states 2 or 4 ohm will give 600W but paragraph on it states it they add it will run at half power 300W on an 8 ohm cab. I'm running it with a Mesa 8 ohm PH212 so decided to check the back of the amp and it says minimum 4 ohm so i'm assuming 8 is ok ?

Dave

Edited by dmccombe7
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@dmccombe7, yeah for a solid state amp you can safely assume that it will run at anything above its minimum, so a 4R minimum amp will be quite happy anywhere >4. 8, 16, 23.5, 604, all fine.

 

A tube amp, however is different. There's an output transformer in there which needs to be set to run a certain nominal impedance. No cab is truly ever a perfect 4 or 8R, it varies with frequency and heat and speaker age, but you need to set the transformer to be close enough. I believe the older SVT heads only had 4 or 2R taps, no option for 8.

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33 minutes ago, Jack said:

@dmccombe7, yeah for a solid state amp you can safely assume that it will run at anything above its minimum, so a 4R minimum amp will be quite happy anywhere >4. 8, 16, 23.5, 604, all fine.

 

A tube amp, however is different. There's an output transformer in there which needs to be set to run a certain nominal impedance. No cab is truly ever a perfect 4 or 8R, it varies with frequency and heat and speaker age, but you need to set the transformer to be close enough. I believe the older SVT heads only had 4 or 2R taps, no option for 8.

Correct, 2 or 4R - thats why a one cab option for me with 3 x 8 ohm cabs to choose from, is out.Need to run two together.

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1 hour ago, Paddy515 said:

Correct, 2 or 4R - thats why a one cab option for me with 3 x 8 ohm cabs to choose from, is out.Need to run two together.

Nonsense, the correct answer to your quandry is a one-cab solution, the Barefaced Six10. I'll even buy the BFM cab off you so you have money to put towards it.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Jack said:

Nonsense, the correct answer to your quandry is a one-cab solution, the Barefaced Six10. I'll even buy the BFM cab off you so you have money to put towards it.

 

 

I only have the two cab option with the cabs I own at present. What sort of money do BF 610s run at? Any idea? The BFM cab is for sale as it happens.

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7 minutes ago, Paddy515 said:

I only have the two cab option with the cabs I own at present. What sort of money do BF 610s run at? Any idea? The BFM cab is for sale as it happens.

It's one of those things that's expensive, but worth every penny. I've had 5 barefaced cabs over the years. Still have 2, which are nominally for sale but I'm not pushing them out of the door.....

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36 minutes ago, Jack said:

It's one of those things that's expensive, but worth every penny. I've had 5 barefaced cabs over the years. Still have 2, which are nominally for sale but I'm not pushing them out of the door.....

Haha - Shame that the 6 and the 8 are the only cabs which run at 4R -  the 4 runs at 8R.

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I have an Ampeg 210 8 ohm cab on the way via silverfoxnik of this parish and also a second SVT115e. Will surely find what Im looking (hearing for) by combining two 115s or a 115 and a 210 together and then take it from there. Thanks for the many suggestions.

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Hartke cabs for me, have always worked well with Ampeg amps. Its a strange one as I have tried lots of cabs with an SVT3-Pro, it hated the Ampeg b115 and 410HE cabs but loved the Ashdown Mag 8x10. I currently own an Ampeg PF50T it sounds fab on my Hartke AK410 and HyDrive 112. I did though, have the opportunity to try it wth both and is what I would advise if thinking about change.

 

Good luck, Andy

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They certainly can, I`ve never had a 210/115 set-up that didn`t sound amazingly good. Only downside was always having to take both cabs to get my sound, as neither could do it on its own. That`s pretty much the reason why I always go for the same cabs if possible, the laziness factor.

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