Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Utter disaster. I give up.


Bridgehouse

Recommended Posts

26 minutes ago, Bridgehouse said:

You may all be wondering why it took so long... well, apart from Jon repairing in between his normal work so as not to delay any of his orders (we agreed this up front), he sent me through a full list of what he's had to do to repair it.

Y'all ready for this?

1. Made a jig to rout off the fretboard. The phenolic is extremely hard so was a bit of a job to rout it off the body without causing any damage to the rest of the guitar, so i made a kind of giant mortice block to put the bass in so the router could be supported from above, the neck be adjusted from beneath to get it flat and the same depth to rout from. Steady work but it routed off ok.
2. Made another jig to re-rout the recess in the body for the new fretboard, so it went in cleanly and a nice tight joint.
3. Sanded up the neck surface to remove any last parts of phenolic and sanded up the body centre.
4. Made another jig to support the router so i could rout away the fillet of wood that sits above the truss rod in its cavity.
5. removed the truss rod, it came out ok, the small piece of the head veneer that was above it broke away (thought it might) but i glued it back.
6. Clamped and glued the headstock break, it went back together pretty well, slight delamination of the polyester basecoat but main thing is the crack glued up well.
7. Routed the truss rod channel clean and made a section of wood to glue in it. I enlarged the channel so the new piece was only glued into new wood. Glued it in then planed and sanded it flush with the neck face.
8. Routed a new truss rod channel, installed the rod and a new fillet of wood above it. Planed and sanded it flush to the fretboard face.
9. Made a new fretboard. Sanded up the phenolic then machined it to the correct taper to match the board taper, cut it square at the nut and left an overhang at the end of the body, made sure it was a tight fit in the body recess. 
10. Measured up and routed the cavities in the board for the saddle units, just part depth so i could rout them deeper once the board was on without using a template.
11. Cut the fretboard edge slots for the fret position partial lines. Inserted wood, sanded flush. Drilled and inserted the side dots
12. Used masking tape to mask off the surrounding areas then Glued the board on with epoxy. The clamp of course has to extend from the nut to the bridge.
13. Carefully filed back the excess of phenolic to the edge of the neck (only a slight overhang) and sanded it into the shape of the neck.
14. Routed the saddle insert cavities deeper, routed the end of the board to the body shape
15 Set the bass on a jig and sanded the radius down the whole board, went through the grade and finished with the buffing wheel to a semi-gloss.
16. Drilled the string through holes.
17. Sanded the whole bass, flatted the lacquer back then masked off the board.
18. Sprayed new gloss lacquer over the entire instrument.
19. Flatted lacquer back and polished. 
20. Cleaned up the board edge and then rolled the edges.
21. cleaned the nut slot and made a new nut.
22. Reassembled the bridge units, hardware back on and wired up the bass.
23. Strung up, cut the new nut, shaped, polished and glued it in.
24. Set it up and adjusted.
25. Noticed an earthing issue with the east circuit, so sorted that.
26. Made a new truss rod cover.
 
It seems I really did gone and bust it proper big style... :shok:

Must have taken him all day.

At £8 an hour. That's at least forty quids worth of work. 

Too rich for my blood! 

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

48 minutes ago, AndyTravis said:

Yeah it’s all well and good making a list etc, but has anyone given much thought or time to get around to finding out if this bass is in fact, overall...actually any good for metal?

Absolutely not. And TFFT as far as I’m concerned.

 

It is, however, brilliant for Paul Young covers. Word. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 09/12/2019 at 16:22, Bridgehouse said:

I've not had the bill yet....

I managed to get the truss rod to lift and snap the fingerboard on my G&L 5er (older single action rod, not an uncommon problem apparently).  Repaired by Jon with a dual action rod, better quality fingerboard, outstandingly  good stainless frets and an almost unnoticeable repair.  Outstanding workmanship (better than it left the USA with) and the bill was unbelievably low.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Teebs said:

smiley   smiley   smileysmiley

 

where did you find those emojis??? :D !!!!

 

PS: in case that English flag was there because of my Scottish location... as much as I love Scotland, the coffee situation is the same (but improving rapidly too ;) ). I am Spanish and got hooked on coffee in Portugal, where every little tiny cafe/bar had delicious coffee, and I just needed to ask for a coffee. Just coffee. If I wanted milk, or diluted with water, I'd ask separately. None of this having to study a two-page list with names I would never remember, and then get to the till and forget under pressure, so you blurt whatever you could remember

"what did you go for?"

"surpriseccino coffee"

"I didn't know they made that one"

"they do, just for me"

  • Like 1
  • Haha 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...