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Si600

Tool not a build.

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Nor even a diary.

I picked up this wee beastie from the Bay of Fleas.  It's older than I am, very well made and very very heavy.  It needs a new drive belt and I'm not sure how to get the extension out of the spindle yet.

 

IMG_20180716_212548.jpg

Edited by Si600
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Yes I do, I'll pop round the revered elders at some point and make one. 

That will only get the chuck out of the spindle.  The literature I have read on t'internet about these suggests that the spindle has a MT2 taper, which then has an extension with a Jacobs taper to take a Jacobs chuck in it.  You can see the hole to get the chuck out, but the part with the hole is also supposed to come out.

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On 18/07/2018 at 11:21, Si600 said:

Yes I do, I'll pop round the revered elders at some point and make one. 

That will only get the chuck out of the spindle.  The literature I have read on t'internet about these suggests that the spindle has a MT2 taper, which then has an extension with a Jacobs taper to take a Jacobs chuck in it.  You can see the hole to get the chuck out, but the part with the hole is also supposed to come out.

If you wind the chuck down a bit you should normally see another drift slot to allow the removal of the extension piece.

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I've been told that the extension is a longer spindle, not a removable lump unfortunately.

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12 minutes ago, Si600 said:

I've been told that the extension is a longer spindle, not a removable lump unfortunately.

Ok, on closer inspection this is an Elliott Progress bench drill and this model has a threaded ring that you use to remove the chuck and it needs a tommy bar to remove. I have one of these drills at work but have never seen another chuck to fit it so the modification to yours means that you can use morse taper drills etc so actually it’s not a bad thing.

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1 hour ago, only4 said:

Ok, on closer inspection this is an Elliott Progress bench drill and this model has a threaded ring that you use to remove the chuck and it needs a tommy bar to remove. I have one of these drills at work but have never seen another chuck to fit it so the modification to yours means that you can use morse taper drills etc so actually it’s not a bad thing.

Any chance you could detail where this ring is and how you get it off?  Not that I need to, just curious.  The current Jacobs chuck is fine, I can;t see myself needing to use a twist drill bigger than 13mm, and if I do then a new chuck or a taper shank drill won't be too hard to get hold of.

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Ok, I’ve done a quick picture to help explain.

If it’s the same as mine you put a tommy bar into the hole marked with the white arrow and wind the ring down onto the top of the chuck. Once it’s in contact you can force the chuck off the Jacobs taper by continuing to unscrew the ring, some considerable force is needed.

BC463449-47AB-478A-BC69-A656255982B6.thumb.jpeg.5321ffa47449183616c60f551f90db94.jpeg

3555E6E9-50A4-4B8D-93E5-8E2F83AD4D94.thumb.jpeg.4a2e50dce5c4915f1ab38d608d06c2ae.jpeg

I’m assuming that where I have the chuck you will have the morse taper adapter which may come off in the same way?

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We had the chuck off this evening, it's a No.1 Morse taper. At the top of the visible spindle, just above the slot for the taper drift is an hex head grub screw. Dad forgot his imperial Allen keys, and I don't have any. We surmised as much as your drawing, that the extension screws on to the end of the spindle, but equally it may be on the Jacobs taper and the grub screw is there to retain it. Presumably, if it does come off then it's still possible to buy a chuck that fits it.

Edited by Si600
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@only4 We had a further look last night.  Very interesting if you find that sort of thing interesting!  The casting with the hole in that you pointed out screws onto the end of the quill.  If you take the depth-stop off you can remove it completely.  What it reveals is the underside of the lower spindle ball race, fortunately semi caged otherwise we'd have been cleaning and regreasing the bearing after finding all the balls that had dropped out!

The No1 Morse taper is part of the spindle, there's a collar on it that loads the internal face of the bearing but it's, as far as we could see, all one piece.  Certainly it was going to get messy taking any more bits off.

It's a shame, the extra 100mm would have been useful, but it's a solid machine with no runout even at full extension, so for £150 I'm happy with it.

Edited by Si600
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8 hours ago, Si600 said:

@only4 We had a further look last night.  Very interesting if you find that sort of thing interesting!  The casting with the hole in that you pointed out screws onto the end of the quill.  If you take the depth-stop off you can remove it completely.  What it reveals is the underside of the lower spindle ball race, fortunately semi caged otherwise we'd have been cleaning and regreasing the bearing after finding all the balls that had dropped out!

The No1 Morse taper is part of the spindle, there's a collar on it that loads the internal face of the bearing but it's, as far as we could see, all one piece.  Certainly it was going to get messy taking any more bits off.

It's a shame, the extra 100mm would have been useful, but it's a solid machine with no runout even at full extension, so for £150 I'm happy with it.

Thanks for the update, yours definitely sounds a little different to mine. 

If you really need the extra height from time to time you could always swing the table out of the way and drill from the base? 

They are a great machine as you say.

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26 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

What next, @Si600 with this?

It looks a nice bit of kit.  Continuing to watch with interest.

That'd be just the job for making knobs.  Heeheehee

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3 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

That'd be just the job for making knobs.  Heeheehee

Thought had never crossed my mind ;)

Wonder if @Si600 would be happy to Parcelpost it across to me every now and again xD

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Next is to get the tool tray back from the Revered Parent who has bored the middle out by 0.10mm (4 thou for the oldies 😛).  I was expecting to do it, but he went ahead and did it, and fit it.  Which means lifting the head off again.  Hopefully for the last time, unless I move it!  It needs a new handle for the quill spider but that's just running a die up the existing one that has broken off, before I got it and fortunately not in the hole.

It was bought mostly because the ability to drill perpendicular holes in things on an ad hoc basis without going for a 20 minute drive down the A5 is very useful, and I want to build a flightcase.

Parcelpost could be done, it weighs something in order of 150kg and all the couriers won't touch it without a pallet.  Or you could drive for an hour to use it 😛

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1 hour ago, Si600 said:

Next is to get the tool tray back from the Revered Parent who has bored the middle out by 0.10mm (4 thou for the oldies 😛).

Thou art considerate.  Gratitude dude.

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Once this is done it will be well worth it, these old tools are streets ahead of the new stuff you can buy from this or that hardware companies

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Ahhh, the good old days of over engineering.

It's hard to feel confident with most of the stuff that is engineered to be just so - no more and no less.

Time for my curmudgeon therapy.  NURSE!  Fetch the screens would you?

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Definitely, I could have bought three pillar drills for the price of this, and probably worn out all three before this one even starts to complain.  The next thing I need to do is mill some T-blocks for the slideways on the base, just in case I need them more than anything else, and make up some bits of bar with a series of holes in to clamp things to the table.  T-blocks will have to be made with Dad, holes in some mild steel I can do by myself now :)

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