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Sandberg appreciation society


GisserD

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1 hour ago, DoubleOhStephan said:

I didn't even know they made these. Was it a special factory run or something do you know? 

I was at the factory hanging out with Hölger and the gang, saw the whole operation first hand - it’s a class act.


Stuff that was ready off the production line I got to play - pretty sure this was one of them, or one or two exactly like it.

Also it’s where I played the first production Superlight bass, I suppose it could have been prototype/final product.

I have to say I did tell him to make a short scale, cuzzie would have been a better name than Lionel, but it looks a cracking bass.

@krispn also designed and named a new colour, but we are yet to see that - only a matter of time

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On the topic of the active-passive discussion. I’ve found that when using a decent tube amp that using passive on the Sandberg seems to produce better results, but if using a simple DI or poor amp (i.e rehearsal room or venue backline) then active is best.

Could it be placebo or has anyone else found similiar?

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@BankaiNo i do not think you are wrong and is inherent in the design of the Glockenklang pre-amp. Some call it ‘Sterile’ but i think that is wrong, it just requires you to see how it interacts with your kit. It is there to give the inherent push to what is the stock/base sound of the bass.

If you have a good amp, it doesn’t need that push the on board pre-amp provides, it can just breathe the bass and come alive. If you rag it up front too much, it can become a wall of sound. It’s one of the reasons I don’t get on with super hot pick ups and mainly prefer passive bases aside from a few - i like to use a preamp of some description, too much pushes too much signal

Edited by Cuzzie
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2 hours ago, Cuzzie said:

@BankaiNo i do not think you are wrong and is inherent in the design of the Glockenklang pre-amp. Some call it ‘Sterile’ but i think that is wrong, it just requires you to see how it interacts with your kit. It is there to give the inherent push to what is the stock/base sound of the bass.

If you have a good amp, it doesn’t need that push the on board pre-amp provides, it can just breathe the bass and come alive. If you rag it up front too much, it can become a wall of sound. It’s one of the reasons I don’t get on with super hot pick ups and mainly prefer passive bases aside from a few - i like to use a preamp of some description, too much pushes too much signal

Agree with all of that. The pre is very musical and useable, and actually, being able to roll off treble or bass a touch is as useful to me as boosting. 

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Haven't posted in here before but here's my VM4 that I bought from Paddy on here in ..err.. December.

It's way too good a bass for my meagre talents (but then so's my much cheaper entry-level Yamaha BB!) but I do love playing it. The action is fantastic and it feels much more compact than the BB which is currently sporting flats and is currently taking the role of bludgeon compared to the VM4 rapier.

I do definitely prefer the passive sound though (I only use it through Amplitube modelling or DI into reaper with a bit of compression). The active bass boost does help fatten up the rear humbucker but I generally find that I keep the active eq off.

Not to everyone's taste I know but I love the off-white finish and, while not completely convinced by the ethical issues behind relic finishes, I think Sandberg do it well and at least I'm not precious about the odd scratch or ding!

IMG_20200409_161146966.jpg

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On 01/04/2020 at 18:03, dmccombe7 said:

Just had a quick lok first 10 pages and some really nice basses in there and some great prices albiet postage is gonna be a bit more expensive but still some nice gear i haven't seen before. Blue sunburst Rik bass was stunning.

Dave

Yes, that Blue Ric almost almost got me but I managed to escape with my wallet.

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22 hours ago, Cuzzie said:

I was at the factory hanging out with Hölger and the gang, saw the whole operation first hand - it’s a class act.


Stuff that was ready off the production line I got to play - pretty sure this was one of them, or one or two exactly like it.

Also it’s where I played the first production Superlight bass, I suppose it could have been prototype/final product.

I have to say I did tell him to make a short scale, cuzzie would have been a better name than Lionel, but it looks a cracking bass.

@krispn also designed and named a new colour, but we are yet to see that - only a matter of time

I was gonna mention this too. There were indeed two 51P’s but if I recall they were for a guy in Sweden and possibly custom requests/orders. I’m surprised they never made the range. I’m still awaiting my custom coloured bass as a thank you for the inspiration 😉 As for active eq ghat Superlight benefitted from the active eq as it was a bit lite in the lows for what you’d expect in a heavier bass but that was the beauty of it. It could be easily eq’d at the amp too of course. 
 

 

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Aye could be right, I don’t know if this guy on FB picked it up first hand or used, but it will in all likelihood sound how we played it - great in your hands, average in mine.

i get what you say about the SL, but it was proper punchy, my spring roll fingers are mebbe a bit bassier

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On 18/03/2020 at 18:55, mcnach said:

I play my VM4 in passive form exclusively and I'm about to remove the preamp because I much prefer it that way.

Did you remove it in the end? 

I'm also considering converting my TT5 to passive.  I'm happy enough doing any soldering, but I've only ever worked on passive basses.

Here's what it looks like inside:

IMG_20200416_202841.e.thumb.jpg.2946fc1bd8b6d8bd07ffa615c51b762e.jpg

And here are the connections (and my guesses):

hole 1 (battery?)
 red   → circuit board
 black → hole 4 *

hole 2 (neck pickup?)
 grey  → circuit board (neck pickup signal?)
 black → screw (neck pickup ground?)

hole 3 (bridge + bridge pickup?)
 large black  → circuit board (bridge pickup signal?)
 medium black → screw (bridge ground wire??)
 thin black   → screw (bridge pickup ground?)

hole 4 (jack socket?)
 black → hole 1 *
 black → screw (jack socket ground?)
 white → circuit board (jack socket signal?)

In addition, there is a connection between the screw and the circuit board (circuit board ground?)

Can someone look over it, and are my guesses (in italics) correct?

 

 

Edited by jrixn1
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31 minutes ago, karlfer said:

Bass is going nowhere Dave, it's me that's passing through 😁

I'd like a signed note from your doctor to confirm that you are of sound mind when you make rash statements like that please @karlfer:)

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1 hour ago, karlfer said:

Hmmm, your wife/carer told me she was Napoleon 🤔

Can we come out yet?

Probably best that we stay in the cupboard Karl, we must consider the mental health of others.

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On 16/04/2020 at 21:08, jrixn1 said:

I'm also considering converting my TT5 to passive.  I'm happy enough doing any soldering, but I've only ever worked on passive basses.

Here's what it looks like inside:

IMG_20200416_202841.e.thumb.jpg.2946fc1bd8b6d8bd07ffa615c51b762e.jpg

 

I did the conversion this evening, using a KiOgon loom.  https://www.basschat.co.uk/profile/7835-kiogon/

If it helps anyone who wonders about the wiring:

It turns out that the larger grey and black wires are in fact two-core screened cable: inside there is a red wire, and white wire, and the shielding.

I copied the original Sandberg wiring which is red=signal, and then wired the white and shielding together, which goes to ground.

The Sandberg control plate holes were slightly too small, so they needed to be reamed (or perhaps I could have asked if pots with smaller shafts were available).

Plugged it in and it sounds good, and I now have a proper tone knob which works across its full rotation.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I am now the proud owner of a California II TM4 Super Light. I have a few queries I just want to clear up...

1) Is the input jack supposed to have no screw on the thread?

2) Is the master volume knob meant to feel easier to turn compared to the other knobs? The grub screw for all the knobs is set tight. 

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14 minutes ago, ClassicVibes said:

I am now the proud owner of a California II TM4 Super Light. I have a few queries I just want to clear up...

1) Is the input jack supposed to have no screw on the thread?

2) Is the master volume knob meant to feel easier to turn compared to the other knobs? The grub screw for all the knobs is set tight. 

I’ve just got a TM5 SL and it’s the same on both counts. 

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7 minutes ago, pineweasel said:

I’ve just got a TM5 SL and it’s the same on both counts. 

Good to know. I just wanted to double check that!

The input jack was pretty secure and a screw wouldn't be able to sit flat the way it's been designed so I figured it might not need one.

The volume knob also caught me off guard. The other three knobs feel relatively 'stiff' in comparison but all four knobs had tight grub screws and had no wobble when turned.

I'm not sure if the fast volume knob is another Sandberg quirk or the nature of the beast with it being the only push-pull pot. 

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