BrunoBass Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 5 minutes ago, Geek99 said: manchester guitar tech says exactly that in his guide I’ll know for next time! It’s mainly in the less accessible areas, where the inside of the horns meet the neck pocket. Oh well, lesson learned! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) I managed to get a bit done over the Easter weekend, namely drilling some holes. The neck holes were the first to be drilled, good to get the neck and the body together, everything seemed to line up nicely, then it was time to drill the holes for the bridge. Everyone seems to recommend drilling the bridge holes after finishing but I wanted to do it before, the rationale being that if I screwed it up I could fill the holes and try again, prior to any paint doing on. Lots of very careful measuring and positioning later I’d got the bridge to where (I think) it needs to be. This is the first part of the build process where I could’ve used some proper tools and a long ruler. My steel rule is only 30cm long and although I think it’s worked out ok, something longer (and a bit of experience) would’ve helped. It’s all a learning curve... I taped some garden twine to the nut in the E and G slots and pulled it taught to the bridge saddles to check alignment; it looked ok so I marked the screw holes and drilled. I started to drill the tunnel for the grounding wire too. My bit isn’t quite long enough so I thought I’d attempt it Channel Tunnel style and start from different sides and hopefully meet in the middle. On second thoughts I thought it’d be easier and probably safer to just get a longer drill bit... Edited April 3, 2018 by BrunoBass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 3 minutes ago, BrunoBass said: I started to drill the tunnel for the grounding wire too. My bit isn’t quite long enough so I thought I’d attempt it Channel Tunnel style and start from different sides and hopefully meet in the middle. On second thoughts I thought it’d be easier and probably safer to just get a longer drill bit... Glad you had second thoughts! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 ...forgot to say, I’m still worried about this paulownia body. As I’m drilling, the wood seems to be very soft, almost crumbly, and I still have concerns about it’s integrity. What with all the grain filling as well I think next time I’ll use a different wood. I’ve heard people recommend putting wood glue into screw holes with paulownia; the glue absorbs into the wood and dries around the screw, forming a threaded insert, I’ll try this. The worst that can happen is that the bridge screws pull out under tension. In that case I’ll just buy another body... To illustrate how soft paulownia is, I just noticed this ding, that has somehow happened, with minimal handling, this morning. Nothing a bit of filler can’t handle, but... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) Paulownia is quite fragile in its raw state, but when you get some finish on there to protect it, it's fine. Also I've not had any problems with screws pulling out and I don't expect any. My Jazz has been strung for months now with zero issues and I've swapped bridges twice using the same screws. Edited April 3, 2018 by discreet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 On 27/3/2018 at 07:17, SpondonBassed said: Alternatively, make a very large pick guard in the colour you want. (Sometimes this is known as a top) I'll be doing that for my next build, if my idea comes to fruition! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 37 minutes ago, BrunoBass said: I'll be doing that for my next build, if my idea comes to fruition! (Files a claim for royalties) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) @BrunoBass, to remove small dings, damp the wood with a cloth and use a got clothes iron, of solder iron to heat the wood through the damp cloth. The wood expands and the ding disappears. Edited April 3, 2018 by Grangur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 1 hour ago, discreet said: Paulownia is quite fragile in its raw state, but when you get some finish on there to protect it, it's fine. Also I've not had any problems with screws pulling out and I don't expect any. My Jazz has been strung for months now with zero issues and I've swapped bridges twice using the same screws. Sir, doesn't this depend on how thick the "protective coat" is? 2 coats of Halfords best rattle-can isn't as tough a the finish Squier or Westone et al are able to put on there. Sorry to be a damp squib, but I fear dings will be a hazard with a soft body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 12 minutes ago, Grangur said: @BrunoBass, to remove small dings, damp the wood with a cloth and use a got clothes iron, of solder iron to hear the wood through the damp cloth. The wood expands and the ding disappears. Doesn't this belong on the Bad Jokes thread along with @BassTractor's bluray player manual's "translation"? That or you have found the cure for Tinnitus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 2 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: Doesn't this belong on the Bad Jokes thread along with @BassTractor's bluray player manual's "translation"? That or you have found the cure for Tinnitus. No. I learned this when I was working on quality oak furniture for a living. Don't believe me? Take a hammer to a piece of wood, such as your solid oak dining table, ding the leg and give it a go... Ok, maybe not the dining table as "sweating" out the ding will play havoc with the lacquer that it's finished with, but certainly find and off-cut of pine or something in the shed and give it a try. I was amazed first time I did it on an oak table leg. Sometimes you need to use a sharp knife to slice DOWN with the grain - NOT across the grain. This will help the water to soak in. But this does work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 7 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: Doesn't this belong on the Bad Jokes thread along with @BassTractor's bluray player manual's "translation"? That or you have found the cure for Tinnitus. PS. Please, don't try this on Tinnitus, it burns the hell out of ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 2 minutes ago, Grangur said: No. I learned this when I was working on quality oak furniture for a living. Don't believe me? Take a hammer to a piece of wood, such as your solid oak dining table, ding the leg and give it a go... Ok, maybe not the dining table as "sweating" out the ding will play havoc with the lacquer that it's finished with, but certainly find and off-cut of pine or something in the shed and give it a try. I was amazed first time I did it on an oak table leg. Sometimes you need to use a sharp knife to slice DOWN with the grain - NOT across the grain. This will help the water to soak in. But this does work. Next time I must remember to put more winky smilies or emojis or.... nah forget it, the moment's passed. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted April 3, 2018 Author Share Posted April 3, 2018 1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said: (Files a claim for royalties) Ha if anyone will deserve royalties from that one it’ll be Ampeg 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prowla Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 I made a partscaster with a paulownia body. I really just wanted a foray into finishing and it came out rather nice. However, I never felt that it was really up to the job and I won't be buying another made of that wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 9 hours ago, Grangur said: No. I learned this when I was working on quality oak furniture for a living. Don't believe me? Take a hammer to a piece of wood, such as your solid oak dining table, ding the leg and give it a go... Ok, maybe not the dining table as "sweating" out the ding will play havoc with the lacquer that it's finished with, but certainly find and off-cut of pine or something in the shed and give it a try. I was amazed first time I did it on an oak table leg. Sometimes you need to use a sharp knife to slice DOWN with the grain - NOT across the grain. This will help the water to soak in. But this does work. Yes that definitely does work as I’ve also done it lots of times too it works better on some woods than others but you have to remember not to have the cloth too wet as if it’s too wet it will remove the ding but also (like most woods when you apply water on them) it raises the grain so you will have to sand it flat again afterwards 2 hours ago, prowla said: I made a partscaster with a paulownia body. I really just wanted a foray into finishing and it came out rather nice. However, I never felt that it was really up to the job and I won't be buying another made of that wood. My Jazz bass has a paulownia body and I’m really happy with it it’s nice and light (I haven’t weighed it tho) compared to my P bass which has basswood body and isn’t really that much softer, if you look on the Janka scale it has a rating of between 300-360lbf, basswood is 390-430lbf, Alder is 460-510lbf and Swamp Ash is only 530-590lbf so in reality there’s not really a lot of difference between the so called cheap softer woods and the so called better quality woods If you want to build a guitar that is virtually impervious to dings and dents then make it out of Australian Buloke which is the hardest wood ever tested........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 44 minutes ago, Jimothey said: My Jazz bass has a paulownia body and I’m really happy with it it’s nice and light.. Me too... another point about Paulownia is that it's very resonant. I like basses that sound good and have a certain amount of presence when unamplified, i.e played acoustically. I want to make a Paulownia P Bass next. If it can bring the thunder and weigh between 6 and 7 pounds, my long bass guitar quest will be over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 18 hours ago, BrunoBass said: ...forgot to say, I’m still worried about this paulownia body. As I’m drilling, the wood seems to be very soft, almost crumbly, and I still have concerns about it’s integrity. What with all the grain filling as well I think next time I’ll use a different wood. I’ve heard people recommend putting wood glue into screw holes with paulownia; the glue absorbs into the wood and dries around the screw, forming a threaded insert, I’ll try this. The worst that can happen is that the bridge screws pull out under tension. In that case I’ll just buy another body... To illustrate how soft paulownia is, I just noticed this ding, that has somehow happened, with minimal handling, this morning. Nothing a bit of filler can’t handle, but... I had a couple of dings like that on the P bass body that I'm currently working on. Completely removed them using the damp cloth and soldering iron method. Also, I'm intending to stain and Tru oil the headstock on my build and have found plenty of internet posts claiming that it can't be done. I've not found out why though and suspect that it might well be yet another internet myth. This video was made by someone else who shared my suspicion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) 8 hours ago, Jimothey said: If you want to build a guitar that is virtually impervious to dings and dents then make it out of Australian Buloke which is the hardest wood ever tested........ Sounds like a load of Aussie Bulokes to me... Edited April 4, 2018 by SpondonBassed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 7 hours ago, discreet said: If it can bring the thunder and weigh between 6 and 7 pounds, my long bass guitar quest will be over. Yeah right. You wish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 46 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: Yeah right. You wish. Thhhppp! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I joined the two,pickup cavities on my Thunderbird build by drilling from both ends, 200mm long drill bit the angle meant that it was never a goer in one hit. I drew a pencil line between the two and followed that as far as possible. It worked perfectly but I did expect to have to mess around a bit. It’s not a way I would choose to do it though given an option. The ground wire hole was more nerve wracking as I worried that if I messed up there was small risk of it breaking out the back. As it was that went perfectly as well. Planning and measuring everything about ten times helped. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 On 03/04/2018 at 15:06, Grangur said: @BrunoBass, to remove small dings, damp the wood with a cloth and use a got clothes iron, of solder iron to heat the wood through the damp cloth. The wood expands and the ding disappears. Thanks, I’ll try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoBass Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 Well... everybody seems to be out of stock on clear nitro gloss and nitro white primer, no one has any (in aerosols at least)! Presumably the UK suppliers all get it from the same source, they must be experiencing supply issues. Sod’s law they’re the two types I want to order! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Dartfords white nitrocellulose primer on eBay for the same price as Northwest Guitars https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F191682601180 But they are out of stock of the Gloss aerosol aswell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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