Al Krow Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) On 06/03/2018 at 13:00, jposega said: If you're going to use the variable outlets on the IsoBrick, make sure you set them using a multimeter, because there is slight deviance between actual voltage and the markings on the case. Once it's set, you can stick some tape over the dials or if you never plan on changing them, hit them with a little hot glue or super glue or white tack to keep them in place. I think I may have spotted the reason for the slight deviance regarding the actual voltage and markings on the case: if the increments between 6V and 15V are supposed to be 1V each then the markings are out i.e. the 9V is actually at the 10V position! Thought I was going to have two wasted outputs because none of my pedals take 18V, but I've just remembered that a Cali 76 CB comp is a 9V to 18V piece of kit and performs better at the higher voltages; so if I get myself that pedal in vgc at a decent price at 3pm today from a fellow BCer, that is one of the 18V's accounted for. Query - if I use a current doubler from the other 18V at 250mA combined with the variable output set at 6V and 250mA, would you agree that this should deliver 12V at 500mA? If so, that will be ideal for the Markbass Super Synth pedal on my board...maybe time to invest in a multi-meter Edited March 8, 2018 by Al Krow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 On 06/03/2018 at 10:57, Musashimonkey said: Aaaaargh! OCD alert ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) On 03/03/2018 at 21:23, ordep said: Pedro, please forgive the stupid question, but have you actually managed to arrange these in such a way that not a single jack plug can be seen? Or am I missing something? Edited March 8, 2018 by Happy Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 11 minutes ago, Happy Jack said: Pedro, please forgive the stupid question, but have you actually managed to arrange these in such a way that not a single jack plug can be seen? Or am I missing something? I think you may be missing something He has done a neat job, for sure, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CameronJ Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 1 hour ago, Al Krow said: Query - if I use a current doubler from the other 18V at 250mA combined with the variable output set at 6V and 250mA, would you agree that this should deliver 12V at 500mA? If so, that will be ideal for the Markbass Super Synth pedal on my board...maybe time to invest in a multi-meter I’m not sure that splitting the current doubler across outputs with different voltages is the best idea. After all, it’s called a current doubler, implying that it expects to be fed with equal power. A multimeter would be a decent idea to make sure you know what you’re dealing with - I wouldn’t want to fry a pedal in the act of experimenting with voltages! There are adapters which are specifically designed to convert a single 9v output to 12v, such as the Gigrig Supanova but at nearly £60 it ain’t cheap. They can be found used every now and then for less though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Anyone got a recommendation for a decent multimeter? Have to fess to being a complete novice with this stuff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ordep Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Happy Jack said: Pedro, please forgive the stupid question, but have you actually managed to arrange these in such a way that not a single jack plug can be seen? Or am I missing something? I am actually using wireless connectivity here using invisible plugs otherwise known as the happy jacks. ;-D if you notice the silver thingies on the side/top of each pedals, those are diago solderless plugs. one of the smallest plugs on the market. Edited March 8, 2018 by ordep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 3 minutes ago, ordep said: if you notice the silver thingies on the side/top of each pedals, those are diago solderless plugs. one of the smallest plugs on the market. They look amazing and would probably easily allow an extra pedal on my board (and my patch cables already aren't bad on that front)! What are they like in terms of noise? @dannybuoy - I know you looked into the whole patch cable from a noise perspective and that confirmed your view that EBS flats weren't great. Did the Diago patch cables perform well on that score? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 5 hours ago, ordep said: I am actually using wireless connectivity here using invisible plugs otherwise known as the happy jacks. ;-D if you notice the silver thingies on the side/top of each pedals, those are diago solderless plugs. one of the smallest plugs on the market. That's these things, right? https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/diago-patchfactory-patch-cable-amp-plug-kit I love the idea of calling them 'happy jacks' ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ordep Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 16 minutes ago, Happy Jack said: That's these things, right? https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/diago-patchfactory-patch-cable-amp-plug-kit I love the idea of calling them 'happy jacks' ... yep, been using them for about 4 years, I already broke about three though. Got them used so cannot complain really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cLepto-bass Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 So after having a brief behind the scenes chat with @Al Krow and realising I could probably do with a couple more isolated outputs in order to future proof my board, I have decided to move on my Strymon Ojai (previously shown in this thread) and instead try out the Truetone CS6. Should arrive on Monday so will be sure to feedback here when I have had a proper play around with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fretmeister Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 True Tone (One spot) CS6 under mine. It’s great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 On 09/03/2018 at 20:22, fretmeister said: True Tone (One spot) CS6 under mine. It’s great. +1 if I was starting out again with my previous Nano+ board, the CS6 would definitely get my vote, too. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, after looking at the pros and cons I opted for the MXR 238 over the CS6 (just!). Here's what the MXR M238 looks like set up on a Metro 24. It's pretty compact although it does take up the space of one pedal, but with a trade-off of 10 isolated outputs and 2,700mA of available power: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 (edited) Question I've got with the MXR 238 - it comes with standard positive barrel / negative centre polarity plugs. One of my 'pedals' (the Smoothhound wireless to be precise) has a negative barrel / positive centre polarity socket i.e. the opposite way round to the rest. Any reasons why this shouldn't work with PSU other than TrueTone?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Truetone-CYR-TT-CYR-Reverse-Polarity-Converter/dp/B004EBG5QE Edited March 11, 2018 by Al Krow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannybuoy Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Looks like a generic part, same as this one (except this one has the advantage of being in stock): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B019E6VJ0A/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_bass5 Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 On 10/03/2018 at 23:52, Al Krow said: +1 if I was starting out again with my previous Nano+ board, the CS6 would definitely get my vote, too. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, after looking at the pros and cons I opted for the MXR 238 over the CS6 (just!). Here's what the MXR M238 looks like set up on a Metro 24. It's pretty compact although it does take up the space of one pedal, but with a trade-off of 10 isolated outputs and 2,700mA of available power: Glad it fits ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatrickJ Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 On 10/03/2018 at 23:52, Al Krow said: Very neatly laid out, though I can't cope with sideways pedals - something very unsettling about them 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cLepto-bass Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 (edited) On 3/9/2018 at 20:22, fretmeister said: True Tone (One spot) CS6 under mine. It’s great. Out of interest, did you go down the route of drilling holes for the unit to be attached under the board? If so, how has that worked out? I am happy to do this but the supplied screws seem rather pronounced and have quite a large raise in the head which I imagine would interfere with pedals mounted directly above. Edited March 13, 2018 by uzzell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 A guitarist just shared with me a neat 'mod' for getting a DC8 (actually the one I just sold him!) or a DC10 underneath one of the 'flat' (rather than angled) PT boards e.g. PT Metro Series. Here's a modded PT Metro 20 with a DC10: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cLepto-bass Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 I have seen that mod a couple of times before but that one is by far the neatest yet. I assume there is another hole at the rear end for the power cable to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 40 minutes ago, cLepto-bass said: I have seen that mod a couple of times before but that one is by far the neatest yet. I assume there is another hole at the rear end for the power cable to go? Doesn't seem to be from the top picture? The power cable would appear to be just going into the PSU at the side and out beneath the board between the feet. I agree - very neat. He said the best way to get that done would be to "take it to an engineering workshop and have it scolloped using a milling machine — it wouldn’t take any longer than 15 minutes." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted September 12, 2018 Author Share Posted September 12, 2018 (edited) . Edited September 13, 2018 by Al Krow Post not relevant to this thread as it's relating to my PT Classic Jnr board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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