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We're off - 1x15 DIY


fleabag

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Does it really have a Fane speaker? I remember buying a pair of cheap 15" speakers from Wilmslow Audio (I went there on the bus, too young to drive then!) for a 2x12 2x15 (!) cab I made in the woodwork class at school. It was a pretty good cab, powered it with a Selmer T&B 50. That was a long time ago!!

Edited by FinnDave
stupidity
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39 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

My mistake.  I took the comment about them being upside down the wrong way.  You had it sussed from the outset then.

Stevie and i were messing around. The cab was actually upside down at the time, as i was working on the underneath.

But even with the cab the right way up,  you can have the space for your knuckles when gripping the handle, either facing up or down

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44 minutes ago, FinnDave said:

Does it really have a Fane speaker? I remember buying a pair of cheap 15" speakers from Wilmslow Audio (I went there on the bus, too young to drive then!) for a 2x12 cab I made in the woodwork class at school. It was a pretty good cab, powered it with a Selmer T&B 50. That was a long time ago!!

It'd have to be good with 2x15" in a 2x12" cab... I'd wager you'd never be short of honk.

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38 minutes ago, FinnDave said:

Does it really have a Fane speaker? I remember buying a pair of cheap 15" speakers from Wilmslow Audio (I went there on the bus, too young to drive then!) for a 2x12 cab I made in the woodwork class at school. It was a pretty good cab, powered it with a Selmer T&B 50. That was a long time ago!!

Definately does Dave. And powered by a Mega

 

 

fane.jpg

peavey mega.jpg

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Oh dear -

Long crackle on a lot of notes. Worse on the E and A fretted or open ,  a lot less on D and G

1)  amp has 2 channels. Only using one at a time as its a single cab. Changed channels, no help

1a) Also changed EQ, various changes, Comp on and off etc. No help

2) cab has 2 speakons. Swapped speakons. No help

3) Changed speakon cable and then did the above again, swapping channels, then cab speakons. No help

4) changed guitar leads twice, no help

5) used my wireless XVIVE's . No help

6) Isolated amp from cab and isolated cab from floor. No help

7) Took grill off, played open E and open A, and put both hands on the driver ( cone and beyond cone ). No help.

8) Changed basses - no help :)

Isn't looking good 

Edited by fleabag
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12 minutes ago, fleabag said:

I couldn't be sure because it rattled everything in my lounge so bad, the rattling could have covered up the noise of crackles

Just came across this don’t know if it’s of any help??

Issues with the Amplifier

An amplifier, especially an older one, can also cause crackling sounds. Transistors and capacitors can wear out over time, the sockets that hold them can corrode and come loose, and vibrations from loud bass music can shake the amplifier.

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It's possible that the voice coil is in physical contact with the sides of the gap in which it should normally run unhindered.  This can be caused by a displacement of the magnet following a hard impact.  Is the magnet eccentric to the backing plate or the frame?

Anatomy of a Loudspeaker

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I've hooked up the amp to one of my Beyma 2x10's, and using the same speakon cables, and guitar leads, the crackle has gone.

I think the only conclusion then, is that the problem is the  Fane driver.  One thing i need to check is both speakon screw terminals to make

sure the wiring is solid, but i'm doubtful that's the problem

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Just  had a look at the speakon connection wiring - its fine

Then did the silent push on the driver, no amp

I thought it was silent, till i got to about 6 o'clock position, and there's a loud scraping.  No scraping sound anywhere else ( 9 o'clock - 12 , or 3 )

What do you think that is then Stevie ?  Only making a scraping noise at 6  - its not a whisper either

Edited by fleabag
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If you're pushing the cone in and out nice and gently, I don't quite get what the 6 o'clock position is, but if you hear any scraping, you almost certainly have a duff driver. The magnet could have moved, as Spondon mentioned earliler, or more likely the speaker has been overdriven and the coating on the copper wire has expanded and is scraping.

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The 6 o'clock thing -   If you look at the cab face on, then i was pressing at several points on what could be called ' the clock face '

EG  I pressed the driver at the top as you're looking at it - say 12 o'clock - and then at other points on a so called clock face , 3 , 6 , 9

So, the scraping noise was at the bottom of the driver at about the 6 o'clock position

Is the magnet accesible to re-position ?  What is the coating on the copper wire - can that be re-coated ?

The Fane driver was bought from someone on here, and  it never saw a gig with me, because i was either gigging my 2 Beyma   2x10 cabs or my 2 markbass cabs, and i've never dropped it either.  I live in a flat,  with people below me, so its never been louder than practice volume when it was in the massive Peavey cab. So someone has sold me a duff speaker

Edited by fleabag
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11 minutes ago, stevie said:

If you're pushing the cone in and out nice and gently, I don't quite get what the 6 o'clock position is, but if you hear any scraping, you almost certainly have a duff driver. The magnet could have moved, as Spondon mentioned earliler, or more likely the speaker has been overdriven and the coating on the copper wire has expanded and is scraping.

I had this with a combo back in 1986.

My mate asked me to have a look at it.  Thinking first that it sounded as if the output transistors had gone I checked and found them okay.  When it came to the push test it became apparent.  Fortunately, that driver had a back plate secured with machine screws and I was able to loosen the screws and realign the parts successfully.  The Fane unit however doesn't look like it was made that way.  You might get some movement of the magnet about its axis with carefully applied force using a rag to protect the magnet from shattering forces but its a long shot.

Edited by SpondonBassed
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Exactly. The idea is to simulate the back and forward movement of the cone. As Spondon says, you need to apply even pressure to the cone to make it move in and out at a perfect right angle. The voice coil behind the cone is moving in a very narrow gap, and will scrape against metal if you apply uneven pressure - even on a good driver. I think Phil Starr once suggested using a cup to carry out this test.

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